Puerto Rico is more than just the main island. Several small surrounding islands are part of Puerto Rico. From those smaller islands, there are two that are inhabited: Vieques and Culebra. These two tropical paradises are definitely worth adding to your Puerto Rican trip. I previously mused about my two days in beautiful Culebra. Now it’s my turn to talk to you about two days in Vieques. This island is just a short hop from the eastern coast of Puerto Rico is the perfect getaway. Here are our tips:
Getting To Vieques
There are two main ways to get to Vieques: by plane or ferry. If you’re only going to spend two days in Vieques, I highly recommend you book a plane ticket. There are several carriers such as Vieques Air Link and Culebra Air, and you can fly from San Juan or Ceiba. The last two times I’ve been to Vieques, I’ve flown from Ceiba. The parking lot at Ceiba is extremely affordable at $8 a day, and the roundtrip ticket is only $80 compared to $150 from San Juan. This can be a great option is you’re traveling beyond San Juan.
Dining Traveler Tip: If traveling by plane, make sure to pack light! You will take a small airplane, and the weight of the aircraft is significant. For example, the weight limit for Vieques Air Link is 30 pounds. I learned this the hard way when I had to pay for extra weight a few years ago!
If you’re looking for a budget travel option, a $2 per adult, the ferry is the most economical choice. Just be prepared to stand in long lines and experience delays. Vieques is a popular destination among locals from the Puerto Rico mainland as well, so I recommend traveling on a weekday when it is less crowded.
Getting Around
Vieques is a relatively small island, but you still need some mode of transportation to get around. If you only have two days in Vieques, I recommend renting a jeep to get around the island. Some of the best beaches, such as Playa La Chiva, are best accessed by jeep. Renting a jeep is not cheap-it ranges from $65-$99 depending on the time of the year. However, I think it is an excellent investment if you truly want to explore the island and see all that it has to offer.
Other affordable choices are renting a golf cart, taxi, or “carro publico” (public transportation). We saw a lot of golf carts around the island, and it seemed like a good way to get around as well. Taxis and carro publicos are less reliable, and you can be at the mercy of the driver to pick you up. I used this method my first time and genuinely regretted not renting a car. The island is small, and most beaches are on google map, so it is pretty easy to drive around.
Where to Stay
Vieques was severely damaged by both Hurricane Irma and Hurricane Maria two years ago. Hotels are slowly reopening with exciting renovations, and there are also new properties sprouting across the island. Here are my picks your two days in Vieques getaway:
Finca Victoria
Finca Victoria is owned by Puerto Rican designer Sylvia DeMarco. This stunning property is for those who want tranquility in a sustainable environment. Nestled in the center of Vieques, Finca Victoria, the property is composed of “casitas,” small houses that house one or two rooms. Guests are treated to a vegan breakfast, morning yoga, and a beautifully curated gift shop with local and unique pieces. Bonus: The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico is sold at Finca Victoria!
El Blok Hotel
If you’re looking for all the traditional hotel amenities, El Blok Hotel is your choice. As the name implies, El Blok is a uniquely designed boutique hotel in Esperanza, where most of the hotels and bars in Vieques are located. With its modern design, ocean views, and hip crowd, El Blok is definitely the spot to be seen. Even if you’re not staying at El Blok, I HIGHLY recommend you dine at the restaurant. Easily one of the best meals we had during our trip.
Flamboyan Guest House
Looking for a cozy inn where you feel like you’re staying with a hip family? Head to Flamboyan Guest House in Esperanza. Located right above the popular Duffy’s restaurant, it is an excellent choice for budget and solo travelers. Owners Alysa and Matty are always around, sharing their tips with guests, and making folks feel at home.
Where to Eat
The small island, big flavors! Although the restaurant selection in Vieques is limited, there are several good restaurants to choose from. From budget to fine dining, there is something for everyone.
El Blok
If you only have two days in Vieques, you have to splurge and dine at El Blok at least once! The cocktails, ambiance, and service are superb. The restaurant has an open kitchen with a flame grill headed by Puerto Rican chef Carlos Perez. We had a delicious octopus for a starter. It was perfectly tender, and its flavor intensified with the smoke. This was followed by a flawless cut of skirt steak topped with savory chimichurri.
Bigotes
When we were producing The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico, we fell in love with El Bucanero, a locally owned restaurant. We were sad to see it gone, but I was consoled by Bigotes, the new restaurant occupying the space. Not only are their pinchos (meat skewers) delicious, they are also extremely affordable. My friend raved about the Arroz mamposteado, Puerto Rican rice with beans and grilled ribs. We had quality, full-service lunch and a soft drink for less than $30 for both of us.
El Rincon Del Sabor
I was so excited to see that there’s a food truck park in Vieques! We had lunch at El Rincon del Sabor, a local food truck that sells traditional Puerto Rican cuisine. I’m still thinking of their trifongo (a mofongo made with plantain, yuca, and taro root) topped with stewed octopus in salsa Criolla. Not only was the dish good but an incredible value at $20. The Vieques Food Truck Park has shaded benches where you can have your meal. We went during the weekday and noticed mostly locals having their lunch.
Buen Provecho
We found Buen Provecho by accident when looking for a breakfast spot. Buen Provecho is not only a deli but also sells hard to find ingredients and wines in Vieques. The back of the shop has a cute bar where you can have food. I loved their avocado toast made with Puerto Rican avocados and topped with locally sourced micro-greens. We took our smoothies made with local mangoes to the beach with us.
Duffy’s
Confession: when I saw Duffy’s Key West vibes, I was a bit hesitant to order Puerto Rican food, but I did for the sake of “research.” Like we say in Puerto Rico, “las apariencias enganan.” (the appearances deceive). Chefs Sarahi Guzman and Julio Munoz bring the Puerto Rican flavors to Duffy’s. I was excited to see Pasteles on the menu, so of course, I had to order them. They were tasty and filled with savory chunks of stewed pork. Wash it down with a carambola (starfruit) margarita.
Beaches in Vieques
I guarantee that you will spend your two days in Vieques (or more) at the beach. The beaches in Vieques are simply idyllic: sandy beaches, crystal clear waters, and stunning sunsets. Here are a few of my favorite beaches:
Playa Caracas
This stunning beach on the southern coast of the island has to be one of the most perfect beaches that I have ever visited. Get there early in the morning, and I guarantee you that you will be one of the few people there! It’s quite easy to get there, there’s parking, and the waters are quite calm.
Sun Bay Beach
Also, on the southern coast, Sun Bay is a “Balneario”, a public beach that has facilities such as parking, bathrooms, and cooking grills. The blue-green water waters are picture-perfect, and the beach is quite shallow, which is excellent for those traveling with kids.
Playa Negra
For those photography enthusiasts, Playa Negra is the beach for you. Playa Negra, as the name implies, is lined with black sand and lively waves. You have to take a 10-minute walk through some thick vegetation to get to the beach, which makes it even more special. Given that the beach is not that accessible, you have a good chance that you will have the beach all to yourself or share it with a few other folks.
Playa La Chiva
Playa La Chiva is located on the southeast coast of Vieques, and it has some of the most spectacular views on the island. The beach is wild, rugged, with choppier waves than its neighboring Sun Bay and Caracas. Get some shade under one of the leafy sea grape trees and take in the views.
Things to Do in Vieques
Aside from eating and basking yourself in the sun, there are some fun things to do during your two days in Vieques. Here are some suggestions:
Bioluminescent Bay Tour
Puerto Rico has three bioluminescent bays, and I am here to tell you that the one in Mosquito Bay in Vieques is the best. Given that the island is not as populated as mainland Puerto Rico, the microorganisms that make the water glow are more abundant as they are less susceptible to contamination. If the Bio Bay is a must for you, make sure you book your trip around the lunar cycle. The bay does not glow as well with a full moon, and some tour companies do not operate during this time. Check out the tours by Bieque Eco Trips.
Horseback Riding
One thing you will notice right away about Vieques is the horses roaming freely around the island. I was under the impression there were wild horses, but most of them have a rightful owner. For the horse lovers, you can book a horseback riding tour with Esperanza Riding Company and go for an unforgettable beachside ride.
Sunset Magic
My friend Chef Brittany introduced me to sunset watching at the northwest coast of Vieques at Mosquito Pier. Bring some beer or wine, sit on the edge of the pier, and take in the magical sunset. Another place to catch a spectacular sunset is at Sun Bay Beach.
Two Days in Vieques
Looking to go off the grid, enjoy tranquil island life, and live your best life by the beach? Vieques is the place for you.
Need more Puerto Rico tips? Check out The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico
