When my friend Ron and I planned our Basque Country trip, we knew that in addition to Bilbao, we also had to squeeze in a trip to San Sebastián, Bilbao’s small, beachy neighboring city. Nestled along the stunning coastline of Spain’s Basque Country, this charming city is known for its captivating blend of belle époque elegance, golden beaches, and exceptional tapas bar scene. Because of its small size, we spent only two days in San Sebastián, but we packed in the activities! Here is a play-by-play of where we stayed, played, and dined.
How to Get There
From Bilbao, you can book a local bus ticket for a scenic journey that takes just an hour and ten minutes. The bus stations in both Bilbao and San Sebastián are both located in the center of the city and are easy to navigate.
Where to Stay
Casa Nicolasa: Small, cozy, and in the center of town, this is a great spot for exploring all the nooks and crannies of San Sebastián. We loved the small fruit stands and bakeries nearby, and the staff was friendly and helpful.
Where to Eat
Like Bilbao, San Sebastián is renowned for its pintxos—small, elaborate bites that people enjoy in bars alongside a glass of wine or txakoli, the region’s slightly sparkling white wine. The tradition is to hop from bar to bar with friends, sampling one or two pintxos at each spot. This social ritual, called txikiteo or poteo, is an essential part of Basque life. We loved visiting all the pintxos bars! Here is a list of our favorites.
Bar Zabaleta: This cute bar serves what might be the best Spanish tortilla in town. Spanish tortilla is a thick egg, onion, and potato omelet that’s a cornerstone of Spanish cuisine. At Bar Zabaleta, it’s especially silky and creamy, with a perfectly runny center.
Bar Nestor: Bar Nestor also offers a divine Spanish tortilla, along with fresh tomato salad, small squares of bread smeared with goat cheese, and tender mushrooms doused in garlicky olive oil. The atmosphere here is lively and authentically local.
Bar Kapadokia: Pintxos galore at this charming spot—artichokes on bread, seafood, burrata on toasty baguette, roasted peppers, and mini squares of cheese piled with anchovies and more. The creative combinations showcase the Basque talent for transforming simple ingredients into memorable bites.
Bar Txepetxa: This bar specializes in bread topped with thin slices of Manchego cheese, tiny tomatoes, and spheres of mozzarella, piquillo peppers, and buttery olives. It’s also home to a few of the best pintxos featuring anchovies—a Basque specialty—at this buzzing bar where you might have to elbow your way to the counter.
Gandarias: Serving small portions of creamy mushroom risotto, white asparagus, and piquillo peppers stuffed with rich goat cheese, the vegetarian options at this shop are truly remarkable. It’s a testament to how Basque cuisine celebrates vegetables with the same reverence as seafood.
Arenals: For a proper sit-down meal, try Arenals. We savored all the veggie dishes at this cute bar, including roasted carrots topped with almonds, creamy local cheese, ricotta ravioli topped with a garlicky tomato sauce, and cauliflower with shards of Parmesan cheese. They’re also known for their natural wines and commitment to using local, seasonal ingredients.
La Viña: Finally, for a taste of the famous Basque cheesecake, head to this 60+ year-old café, which serves luscious slices of the burnt cheesecake that has made the region famous worldwide. Unlike traditional cheesecake, Basque cheesecake has a deeply caramelized, almost burnt exterior and an impossibly creamy, almost molten center. It originated right here in San Sebastián and has since conquered dessert menus around the globe.
What to Do
Visit the San Telmo Museum: San Sebastián, or Donostia in Basque, offers visitors a window into the distinctive Basque culture that sets this region apart from the rest of Spain. The Basque people, or Euskaldunak, have inhabited this area for thousands of years and maintain a fiercely independent cultural identity. For example, the Basque language, Euskara, is one of Europe’s oldest living languages and unrelated to any other known language. To learn more about the Basque culture, spend some time at the San Telmo Museum, which houses fascinating exhibits on Basque history, culture, and art.
Take a walking tour: We joined a “Secrets of San Sebastián” tour that took us to some of the city’s most enchanting spots. We visited the gorgeous baroque Basilica of Santa María del Coro, the elegant Victoria Eugenia Theatre (a beautiful belle époque building), Hotel Maria Cristina—where film stars stay during the renowned San Sebastián Film Festival—and San Sebastián City Hall in the center of town.
Stroll La Concha Beach: This crescent-shaped beach is consistently ranked among Europe’s most beautiful urban beaches. You can walk along the elegant promenade or dip your toes (and even take a swim if you can brave the cool waters!) in the Bay of Biscay.
Climb Monte Urgull: This former 12th-century fortress has great views and a lovely park. You can access the small hill from the city center, and it’s an easy climb to the top. We loved the panoramic views of the city and coastline.
See the sunset at El Peine del Viento: Located at the end of Ondarrata Beach, this three-piece sculpture by Eduardo Chillida is a sight in and of itself, and it’s also a gorgeous spot to enjoy the sunset.
The Verdict
Basque Country is like no other! We can’t recommend it highly enough. Make sure to spend at least two days in San Sebastian!
