One of best friends, Ron, and I love to take trips off the beaten path. We thought long and hard about where to go this summer and finally settled on visiting Belgrade. We landed in the Slavic nation eager to explore an area we had never been to, which is known for both its tumultuous history and its up-and-coming food and nightlife scene.
Where to Stay
We stayed in an Airbnb in Stari Grad, one of the oldest parts of the city, as it was close to all the sights we wanted to see. Belgrade is a super walkable city, so it is helpful to stay somewhere in the center of town.
Visiting Belgrade: A Little History
There is so much to do when visiting Belgrade! Serbia has a deeply interesting and eventful history. During the 13th and 14th centuries, it became the most powerful country in the Balkans, until it was taken over and ruled by the Ottoman Empire. After achieving independence from the Ottomans in 1878 Serbia grew in power, especially after the Balkan Wars of 1912-1913, leading to tensions with Austria that ultimately led to World War I. It was after World War I that Serbia became Yugoslavia, a new country combining all the south Slavic countries.
World War II brought more turbulence to Serbia, with Germany occupying the country. Nearly half a million Serbs died during World War II. In the 1990s Yugoslavia was plagued by a civil war, which led to the disintegration of the country. Serbia subsequently became its own nation, as did Croatia, Montenegro, Macedonia, Slovenia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina. Part of the experience of visiting Belgrade is to learn more about this historically rich country!
What to See & Do
Medieval Serbia: This all day tour takes you outside of Belgrade, to the center of the country. We visited the Studenica Monastery, an absolutely stunning place to visit. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and was founded in the 6th century. As the largest monastery in Serbia, it houses some of the most beautiful Byzantine artwork I have ever seen. We also went to the Zica Monastery and climbed the Maglič Fortress, where we saw some impressive views of the country. The tour is great; you will marvel at the historical sites and love the natural beauty you see at the fortress and driving through the country. It’s a great tour to understand the beginnings of Serbian culture.
Belgrade Fortress: If you enjoy medieval history you should also visit the Belgrade Fortress, which was originally built in 535. The structure is impressive, the views are epic and its free, so you really can’t go wrong. This is a must when visiting Belgrade.
Museum of Yugoslav: After learning about medieval Serbia, we spent some time the next day at the famous Museum of Yugoslav, learning about the Serbia post-independence and perused the museum for hours, viewing letters, clothing, weapons, propaganda, and photos from the Yugoslav period, which included World War II.
Belgrade Free Walking Tour: There are several free walking tours offered by this company; we chose the 20th century tour which would complete our dive into Serbian history as we had already explored medieval sites and world war II history at the museum. Included sites like Republic Square, parliament, a series of churches and parks, and the site of the 1999 NATO bombing. It’s a great way to see the city on foot and learn more about the city.
Where to Eat and Drink
Learning about Serbian history can build up quite the appetite! We hit up a whole lot of great places to eat and drink while visiting Belgrade.
Beton Hala: This waterfront area in Belgrade is a great spot for dining, drinking and people watching. Enjoy beverages at Sofa or Toro Toro and then inhale the decadent pasta at Comunale. There are dozens of restaurants, it would be impossible not to find something you like.
Stari Grad: Wander around the streets of old town, grab a beer at any outdoor café and then head for an authentic Serbian meal Manufaktura. This gorgeous restaurant, whose patio is covered with dozens of red umbrellas, has inexpensive and delicious bottles of local rose, as well a huge menu with dishes like savory baked beans, olive oil drizzled potatoes, bright tomato, cucumber and cheese salads, and fragrant fresh bread.
Savamala: It makes sense that the trendiest neighborhood in town has the best craft beer spot: Prohibicija. We sipped on several beers here after dinner one night.
Neimar: This cozy neighborhood has one of my favorite restaurants while visiting Belgrade: Mala Fabrika Ukusa, which translates to “Little Taste Factory”. The charming venue is surrounded by trees and greenery, making it seem worlds away from the city. The interior is warm and welcoming and has the feeling of dining in someone’s home. The patio, where we ate, is the kind of place where you want to sit and eat for hours, which is exactly what we did.
We kicked off our Serbian meal with delectable goat cheese croquettes, which offered the perfect juxtaposition of creamy and crunchy. Next: a quintessential Serbian salad with tomatoes, cucumber, and a snowy mound of shredded Farmer’s cheese. For our entrees, I stuffed my face with succulent gnocchi, tossed in a silky sauce and local veggies. Dessert was particularly delicious, with a cold, creamy local custard made with sugar, milk, and eggs.
The Verdict
Visting Belgrade showed us a different and unique side of Europe. If you enjoy learning about world history, admiring the beautiful architecture, walking and exploring, and good food, Belgrade should be high on your list of places to visit next.
