When in Marseille, one must indulge in a decadent Michelin-starred meal. We had the opportunity to tour of Alcyone, proud holder of a Michelin star since February 2014. We also had the opportunity to meet and speak to executive chef Lionel Levy, who is a leader in the field of modern Marseille gastronomy. Lionel has been a Michelin starred chef since 2005 and settled in Marseille 13 years ago following his culinary studies with Éric Fréchon and Alain Ducasse. Here’s what he had to say about his creative process and influences.
About Alcyone
Alcyone launched this summer a new concept Potager Hôtel-Dieu that will open every Thursday and Friday evening from July 5th until September 29th. The tasting menu is vegetable-based, using produce from the garden on-property. The chef’s table menu will have a maximum capacity of 10 persons sharing one table “Table d’hôte” where Chef Levy will cook in front of his clients.
Q&A with Michelin Starred Chef Lionel Levy
Note: This interview was translated from French to English. Some items have been edited for brevity.
Maria: What makes your restaurant successful?
Chef Lionel Levy: we like to offer a unique experience, a story to tell. All the dishes crafted in our kitchen must be perfect as we aim to create an authentic emotion.
Maria: How’s did it feel to be awarded a Michelin star?
Chef Lionel Levy: It was a great moment, it was the day we realized that all the hard work done by the team is recognized, and it confirmed that we were going in the right direction. The fact that a lot of people acknowledge the intense work behind our creations, gives us an enormous satisfaction. The moment we heard the news, we experienced mixed feelings since there was a lot of sacrifice and efforts put by everyone. There were plenty of reactions of joy, tears, and laughs…
Maria: What is the creative process behind your dishes?
Chef Lionel Levy: there is not a unique explanation behind the creativity, it is more to be curious and to have a lot of passion. Every day we have elements that feed us and give us the interest to use our gustatory and olfactory memory and unconsciously we try mixing new ingredients. This is how I created the “Milkshake de Bouillabaisse”.
As I am not originally from Marseille, I didn’t want to make the traditional “Bouillabaisse” plate, so after discussing with clients and friends, I decided to make a lighter version and serve it as a salty starter. My friends living in New York challenged me and I asked myself why not presenting this in a glass, bit creamy like a milkshake. This way we arrived to create this unique combination. You need to know your profession from the base and the traditions. It is a bit like a musician: if he likes to create music and he doesn’t know the foundation properly, he then cannot create. The same happens to a chef: if they do not know the basic plates and ingredients, then they will not be able to create something different.
Maria: Why did you choose Marseille?
Chef Levy: I believe that Marseille chose me. It was by coincidence as I was working in Paris with Mr. Ducasse and my friend and my first boss from Toulouse called me. He proposed to me a restaurant in Marseille. My first reaction was “I am not interested and I prefer to stay in Paris”. However, he then offered to come with me and visit. We came together to Marseille and when we arrived, and I discovered the city, I immediately fell in love with it, the clarity, the brightness, the old port, this exaggerated way of talking fascinated me. I have Mediterranean origins; my parents are from Morocco and it is true that this Mediterranean mentality, the way of living and the sea are very important to me. At Marseille I feel home. I am more “Marseillais” than the people born here!
Maria: Can you tell us about your favorite creation on the menu?
Chef Levy: I want to produce a reaction like to create a dish. The Milkshake is a sweet symbol of the American cuisine that is not recognized as a plate, so combining with the bouillabaisse, a traditional recipe deep-rooted in French culture was a fantastic way to produce a unique emotion. “Milkshake de bouillabaisse” is offered in our menu as a salty starter. It’s one of the favorites and it remains always on the menu. Now, for a chef, it will be limited to be recognized for one plate only and we are trying every day to create new combinations, but I really like the current work we are doing with certain vegetables and fish. Another favorite plate is “Les Escargot au Cacao” which is served as a starter and so far it has garnered positive reactions but it can also shock certain clients.
Maria: What would you like for your guests to remember from the dining experience?
Chef Levy: I like to cause emotions, it is really that, in a way allow our clients to remember a flavor from their childhood, maybe a plate from their grandmother, this will be the best compliment I could get. Also, a plate should have variances, there should be a bit of bitter, a bit of acidity so we can create different experiences. For me, my cuisine doesn’t need to please everyone even if I work in this international location where we have multicultural clients. If we offer a cuisine that pleases everyone, then we are following on the monotonies and we don’t want that–we like to create questions and discussions while being honest and authentic.
Maria: You are inspired by the local and seasonal ingredients of the region. What ingredients do you see yourself working with the most?
Chef Levy: at this moment there is a lot of fish, we are entering the season of red tuna from the Mediterranean Sea which is an exceptional product. We can get it very fresh and like to serve it in several ways such as raw, grilled, roasted, or as a snack. We also use other local products such as zucchini flower, garlic, fennel, tomatoes among others.
Maria: Our readers enjoy local tips from chefs. What three places do you recommend for visitors to see?
Chef Levy: There is so much to see but I will certainly suggest:
- La Boite A Sardine very typical Marseille cuisine
- Une Table Au Sud my previous restaurant now owned by my sous-chef
- Old Port of Marseille very charming and lively, a must-visit in the city
We ordered several favorites plates from the menu at Les Fenêtres Restaurant and, all dishes were delicious indeed. The chef created that contrast that makes his restaurant deserving of a Michelin star and all menus are signed by Chef Lionel Levy. Here are our selections:
- White Wine: Chateau Lafoux August 2016
- Rose Wine Miraval Cotes de Provence
- Milkshake de bouillabaisse, fish soup
- Large squid paella style, Camargue rice
- Unilateral fillet of sea bass, eggplant parmesan
- Stuffed sugary tomatoes
- Strawberry Gateau
The InterContinental Marseille – Hotel-Dieu, 1 Place Daviel, 13002 Marseille, France, Website
