Late last year, my husband and I were visiting Vancouver, Canada we took that opportunity to go explore the Canadian Rockies, ending an unforgettable week in Banff—a UNESCO World Heritage site nestled in the heart of Alberta’s mountain wilderness. From soaking in natural hot springs to dining above the clouds, Banff exceeded every expectation we had. Here’s our guide to Banff National Park with recommendations on how to experience all this magical place has to offer.
Where to Stay
The Rimrock Resort Hotel: Perched dramatically on Sulphur Mountain, this was our home base for our stay, and what a choice it turned out to be. The Rimrock offers something truly special—panoramic views of the Bow Valley that literally take your breath away every time you cross the lobby toward the giant windows on the other end. We chose a mountain-view room, and each morning we’d wake up to the sight of snow-capped peaks painted golden by the sunrise and the morning mist draped over the pine forests below. The hotel’s location is incredibly convenient, basically across the street from the Banff Gondola and Upper Hot Springs, yet far enough from downtown to feel like a peaceful mountain retreat. The hotel also features multiple dining options, including their signature restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the mountains like a living artwork.
What to Do in Banff National Park
Soak in the Upper Hot Springs: There’s something absolutely magical about slipping into naturally heated mineral waters while surrounded by snow-capped mountains of Banff National Park. The Upper Hot Springs, with temperatures reaching 104°F (40°C), provided the perfect way to unwind and recover after days of hiking and exploring. The outdoor pool offers unobstructed views of Mount Rundle and the Bow Valley, and there’s nothing quite like watching the steam rise from the hot springs while breathing in the crisp mountain air. Beware, though, it can get crowded in the water, and there is not much space to lounge out of the water, so try going in off-hours.
Ride the Banff Gondola and Dine at Sky Bistro: The eight-minute gondola ride to the summit of Sulphur Mountain is breathtaking, but the real magic happens at the top. From 7,486 feet above sea level, you’re treated to 360-degree views of six mountain ranges of Banff National Park. We, however, decided to hike up the mountain, which took us about two hours, but it was worth every minute: the views were stunning; we saw countless birds and spotted little ground squirrels before they could scurried away; and—having left early morning—enjoy the tranquility of the woods.
We timed our visit for lunch at Sky Bistro (be sure to make a reservation!), and it was absolutely the right call. Sky Bistro literally takes mountain dining to new heights. While the menu is limited (the kitchen is supplied by gondola and helicopter only, after all), there were options for all, and the food was very tasty.
After lunch, we strolled around the walkways that connect the building that houses the gondola station, restaurant and cafe, museum, and gift shop to the peak of Sulphur Mountain, and then headed back down; this time by gondola, as the descent down can be a bit hazardous, being rocky and quite steep in places.
Embark on a Wildlife Tour: We booked a guided dusk wildlife tour on a bus in Banff, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of our entire trip. The town is situated right inside a protected nature preserve, and the surrounding areas are home to an incredible array of wildlife. Our knowledgeable guide knew exactly where to look, which (surprisingly) included the local golf course, where we saw two herds of elk. Unfortunately, we spotted no bears or moose, but did see mountain goats gracefully navigating perilous rock formations, more elk grazing in mountain meadows, and several birds of prey up high and down low hunting for their dinners.
Hike in Johnston Canyon: This gorgeous trail through an evergreen forest along cascading waterfalls at Banff National Park. It is absolutely stunning, and a manageable hike for most. Do arrive early in the morning, as the trail gets very packed as the day goes on.
Visit Lake Louise: No trip to Banff National Park is complete without experiencing the otherworldly beauty of the pristine mountain lakes, and Lake Louise is the queen of them all. The lake’s famous turquoise waters, created by fine glacial sediment, really were unlike anything we’d ever seen. The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, perched elegantly on the lakeshore, provides a stunning backdrop for photos. The Lake Agnes Tea House is another famous attraction, where generations have enjoyed traditional afternoon tea while overlooking the lake. However, the hike there takes a few hours. You can book a private tour to Lake Louise, or take local shuttles and buses from various hotels and spots in downtown Banff.
Explore Downtown Banff: The charming town of Banff itself is a merry mix of outdoor adventure culture and sophisticated mountain retreat. Banff Avenue, the main thoroughfare, is lined with local boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants, all framed by the dramatic peaks that surround the town. We spent hours in mostly pedestrian-only areas, visiting local shops for handcrafted goods, Indigenous art, high-quality outdoor gear, and the obligatory kitschy souvenirs.
The town vibrates with energy, with migrants, seasonal workers, and visitors from around the world mingling with locals who all embody that adventurous mountain lifestyle. The numerous patios and outdoor seating areas make it easy to people-watch while enjoying a coffee, local beer, or craft cocktail. We sampled them all, including the bear claws, poutine, and other Canadian delicacies sold from small but quality-focused take-out shops all over town.
Where to Eat
Three Bears Brewery and Restaurant: the beer is brewed right there in the restaurant, so you definitely want to try their beers; have the staff recommend one to go with your food, or pick your favorite from a flight that gets you six 5-oz. pours. The menu reads like standard pub fare, but everything is made from scratch with fresh local ingredients. There are also some tasty pizzas and snacks, like cheesy waffle fries, that go great with a cold beer.
Zyka: It’s easy to miss the single stairwell door that marks the entrance to this Indian restaurant among the many options that Banff has for Indian food, but make sure you don’t, as this place offers authentic Indian dishes (including breakfast items) that you probably haven’t seen anywhere else. We loved their Indo-Chinese dishes like spicy gobi manchurian and hakka noodles.
Nourish Bistro: You don’t have to be a hardcore vegan to enjoy this entirely plant-based restaurant. Inside, it has a funky (in a good way) disco vibe, while the outdoor patio is tranquil, thanks to the surrounding planters with flowers and herbs. The food leans Asian, with dishes like gyoza and ramen, but you’ll also find awesome mushroom ravioli and various veggie burgers.
Where to Drink
PARK Distillery and Restaurant: This spacious yet cozy place offers a great selection of drinks, from canned beer to cocktails of their own invention, using liquors distilled on site. The restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating. If you can get a table on the balcony, do so, as you can enjoy the views overlooking the main street.
Larkspur Lounge: Even if you’re not staying in the Rimrock, this old-school hotel bar is the perfect place to relax after a hike in Banff National Park or a busy day sightseeing. Enjoy excellent cocktails or one of their curated wines by the glass, while you sink away in a deep, comfy seat or banquette in front of the giant fireplace.
The Verdict
From the fresh air to the great food to the spectacular sights, Banff National Park feels like another world. If you love the outdoors, being in nature, and enjoying scenic views, you need to add this to your bucket list.
