Those of us who have lived in Japan become ruined in terms of food. Ruined because you try to have the same experience you experienced in the land of the rising sun because you try to replicate it, but it never happens. When I met Daisuke Utagawa, the owner of Sushiko, where Kōbō is located he said something I will never forget. He said “you cannot recreate Japanese food in the United States, rather use the technique and create something unique”. That put things into perspective for me. It’s been two years since I had my first meal at Sushiko and I was converted. I was thrilled to find out that co-executive chefs and brothers Handry and Piter Tjan are behind Kōbō, a restaurant within a restaurant experience.
The Concept
Some may be familiar with Sushiko if you’re from the DC area. This neighborhood favorite in the Chevy Chase neighborhood straddles the DC-Maryland line. The restaurant has a neighborhood while running into power players in the area. I’ve sighted celebrity chef Jose Andres and PBS travel host Rudy Maxa. First of all, what makes Kōbō is that it is a restaurant within a restaurant. The kappo-style tasting journey puts your meal at the hands of the chef. You sit at the counter with a handful of other diners to take in the experience. The restaurant has a vegan experience served from Monday and Tuesday and the non-vegan experience Wednesday to Saturday. Sundays Kōbō is closed.
The Food
How do I do this without giving away the surprise? I think the element of surprise at Kōbō is essential for the experience. We begin our experience with a smoked oyster. As the chef brings it to the counter, we experience the aroma of the shiso, sea grapes and the oyster. It transports you back to the sea. We continue to a housemade tofu topped with Hokkaido sea urchin. The tofu is soft with a mild flavor allowing the sea urchin to shine. Our tasting experience continues with more inventive dishes that I will not divulge much as I don’t want to ruin the element of surprise.
The Sushi
The dining experience at Kōbō begins with small, creative dishes, the perfect opening act for the sushi. Sushi pieces are made with precision, every little details counts. One of my favorite pieces was the shrimp topped with sea urchin and caviar. Topped with gold flakes, it’s a strong reminder that food is art. Another highlight was a seared piece of fish topped with foie gras. Simply said, every piece of sushi served is beautifully unique. We ended the meal with a delicious matcha tiramisu.
Kōbō : The Verdict
If you’re an adventurous lover of food, Kōbō is the ideal experience for you. It’s not cheap at $160 for the non-vegan and $130 for the vegan (with tax and gratuities included) but it’s worth saving for. It reminded me of the dining experiences I had in Japan. The attention to detail, the flavors, and the experience is something I will never forget. If you have a foodie in your life, this makes for an epic gift!
Kōbō, 5455 Wisconsin Ave, Chevy Chase, MD 20815, Website
