We had the opportunity to spend 24 hours at the InterContinental Lyon – Hotel Dieu located on the banks of the Rhône and in the heart of a revamped historical monument in Lyon: the Grand Hotel-Dieu. This former hospital that operated uninterruptedly for eight hundred years has reinvented itself as a cultural and gastronomical center in Lyon. There, we spoke to Executive Chef Mathieu Charrois of Epona, the restaurant at the InterContinental Lyon- Hotel Dieu about what inspires him, what makes the restaurant successful, and his insider tips on Lyon. Here are his thoughts:
Note: the interview has been translated from French and edited for brevity.
Q&A with Executive Chef Mathieu Charrois
Maria: What makes your restaurant successful?
Chef Mathieu: Lyon is a city known for its gastronomy and this hotel is already located in a legendary place. We have a great team to help us get the restaurant to the top. With time, you build your own network and they follow you. Of course, we also have the help of HR and management. It is important to transfer knowledge so it will be their turn to be successful tomorrow.
Maria: What is the creative process behind your dishes?
Chef Mathieu: when we create a new plate, we discuss with the team, we imagine what will look but we must reflect the location. In Lyon, people like to share dishes, so we respect the local traditions and expectations. This way you get to the creativity.
Maria: Why did you choose Lyon?
Chef Mathieu: I chose Lyon because it’s the capital of gastronomy. In a chef’s life, being able to work in Lyon and to open a project like this is just wonderful. After my 18 years of chef’s experience, every day I wake up to run this kind of project….
Also, thanks to Chef Levy who offered me this opportunity while I was working in London-it took me 2 days to say yes!
Maria: Can you tell us about your favorite creation on the menu?
Chef Mathieu: My favorite dish is the cocotte dishes we offer. Since Lyon is well known for sharing dishes, I want to include this on our menu. The cocotte can be prepared with chicken, with fish, even with lamb or for dessert. Our guests can serve while sharing or we can serve, this allows a more relaxed dining experience. There is a Lyon’s touch to the cocotte and I add part of my personality, as I add a mix of exotic ingredients that I learned using in my other experiences, not only in the dishes but also from working with people of different cultures and experiences.
Maria: What would you like for your guests to remember from the dining experience?
Chef Mathieu: I am very close to my guests as I come after each service to ask about their dining experience. Their feedback is constructive and most of the time they are happy with their meal. In some cases, I will adapt our plates as a result of their feedback. We always use regional products. 80% of our clients are from Lyon and we change the menu every 3 months. We respect the seasons and the products. I like to work with small farmers that respect seasonality as well.
Maria: which ingredients you like to use the most?
Chef Mathieu: Salsify, a root vegetable not often used and the Jerusalem artichoke. I like to use these seasonal vegetables as well as the red beet that often is not found on the daily menus.
Maria Tell me about the process of pairing wine and food?
Chef Mathieu: I work very closely with our French Sommelier Julien Pierrel and together we discuss the new menu and even the daily suggestions so there is an important collaboration that allows us to offer the right wines with the right plates.
Maria: Our readers enjoy local tips from chefs. What three places do you recommend for visitors to see?
Chef Mathieu: I suggest visitors to see:
- Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière
- Vieux Lyon UNESCO World Heritage Site
- Epona Restaurant, of course!
Chef Mathieu also talked about the concept of “dine with 4 hands”, where he recently cooked together with Michelin-starred chef Takao Takano from local Japanese restaurant Takao Takano. The idea is to repeat this concept often to offer a different dining experience to the guests of Epona. Epona is has been open for less than a year and they are still experimenting with different experiences.
It was a real pleasure to meet Executive Chef Mathieu Charrois and the rest of the team at Epona. The team is young and enthusiastic and it was great to interact with everybody. We could feel the talented team spirit and collaboration, it made our experience quite unique!
Tip: Head for a nightcap at Le Dome, with its stunning renovated, 32-meter high ceilings.
Epona, 20, Quai Jules Courmont – 69002 Lyon, France Website
Disclaimer: I was graciously hosted by InterContinental Lyon – Hotel Dieu. As always, opinions are my own.
