Puerto Rico is currently going through a culinary renaissance. Every chef I speak with on the island talks about going back to their roots when it comes to recipes and ingredients. There’s a renewed sense of pride in our traditional dishes. This is not only seen in San Juan but throughout “la isla.” Leave the capital and check out these restaurants outside San Juan-not only will you indulge in a delicious meal but you will also get a side of Puerto Rico that many visitors do not get to see.
Estela
Located in the surf town of Rincon, Estela is a quaint restaurant where the food is the protagonist. Chef Abel Mendoza grew up in the neighboring town of Añasco. Form Australia to Peru to New York City, Chef Mendoza has lived and worked throughout the world. A few years ago, he decided to return to Puerto Rico and became the executive chef and partner at Estela. Their menu changes every day-with the date stamped on the menu.
We started our meal with a colorful rum and passion fruit cocktail. We began our culinary journey with an arrañita (grated plantain) paired with a salad made with local greens. We then indulged in longaniza (sausage) made in-house over a mash of root vegetables. I will not give more away because I want you to a. drive to Rincon and b. not spoil the surprise.
Estela, Road 115 KM 14, Rincon, Puerto Rico. Call 787-823-1795 for reservations
Chefs Creations
As a southerner (of Puerto Rico), Ponce will always have a special place in my heart. The colonial architecture, the colorful Plaza Las Delicias, and La Guancha make it one of my favorite cities in Puerto Rico. A restaurant that is worth the trip is Chefs Creations by Chef Jorge Rivera. The dining room is in an enclosed patio where you have the view of the kitchen where you can catch a glimpse of the chef doing his magic with his wood-fired oven.
Chef Jorge Rivera sources a lot of his menu items locally, especially from the Plaza de Mercado de Ponce (the town’s market). His menu often changes as he goes by the ingredients that he finds. I still think about the guanimes (dumplings made out of cornmeal) topped with stewed codfish.
Chef’s Creations, 100 Calle Reina, Ponce
Casa Bavaria
Nestled in the green mountains of Morovis, Casa Bavaria should be on your list of restaurants outside of San Juan. Owned by a German-Puerto Rican family, this casual restaurant puts the Deutsch touch to its Puerto Rican menu. Order mofongo topped with jager schnitzel with a side of Kartoffelsalat (German potato salad). Wash it down with a Paulaner or with a Don Q rum with grapefruit juice.
Last year, I hosted my 40th birthday party at Casa Bavaria and loved their buffet menu for large parties. The staff was very responsive to my needs throughout the party planning process, and my guests loved the food and atmosphere. I highly recommend Casa Bavaria if you are looking for a unique space to have a milestone birthday or even an informal wedding.
Casa Bavaria, Km. 38.3, State Rte 155, Morovis Website
Casa Vieja
The center of Puerto Rico is becoming more popular than ever. Locals head to the many picturesque roads to do “chinchorreo,” meaning stopping at small restaurants and kiosks for snacks and drinks. Casa Vieja, a cozy house in the mountain town of Ciales, is a must-see restaurant outside San Juan.
Although it’s a 90-minute drive from San Juan, you’re transported to a different world as you drive along the lush green hills. Casa Vieja has a classic Puerto Rican menu, and I must say that I’ve had my best moricillas (blood sausage) there. Pair it with a tart passion fruit sangria.
Casa Vieja, Km 26 PR-149, Ciales
Fierro World Cuisine
This stunning restaurant in my quiet hometown of Guayama brings a modern flair to the town center. Guayama is known for its beautiful Plaza de Recreo (town square) surrounded by colorful colonial architecture. The town received a lot of damage from Hurricane Maria, and it’s slowing recovering and adding new businesses to the city.
Fierro opened this summer, and it has quickly become a favorite of the who’s who of the southern coast. The menu, as the name implies, brings international flavors and local ingredients. One of the dishes I still think about is the corn ice cream topped with salty popcorn.
Restaurants Outside San Juan: The Verdict
When people ask me about advice about Puerto Rico, one thing I cannot stress enough: explore beyond San Juan. There are so many great restaurants beyond San Juan. Not only will you get a local taste but some stunning views along the way.
Want to learn more about Puerto Rico? Check out my book, The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico, a visual journey across the island.