You wouldn’t necessarily think of famous architecture when arriving in Pennsylvania’s Laurel Highlands, located just southeast of Pittsburgh. Located in a rural region of the state, it contains 3000 square miles of scenic mountains and valleys. Nestled among the scenery are the stories of one of the greatest architects to have ever lived. Frank Lloyd Wright was known for organic architecture; that is, designing structures in harmony with the environment. In the Laurel Highlands, you can explore three distinct Wright properties and enjoy some pretty amazing eats along the way.
Frank Lloyd Wright’s Laurel Highlands
Before this trip to Laurel Highlands, I was a Frank Lloyd Wright novice. I really didn’t know much about his work or story. Started out on a bright morning at Fallingwater, one of Wright’s most famous creations as well as one of the most stunning examples of his work. I instantly became a fan. Built originally as a summer retreat for the Kaufmann family (of Pittsburgh-based Kaufmann Department Store), Fallingwater truly personifies Wright’s commitment to nature, incorporating the landscape into everything about the property and truly bringing the outside indoors.
The iconic building (it once graced the cover of Time) was literally built into the side of a waterfall and nestled around as part of the existing boulders of the landscape. A giant boulder suddenly becomes part of a kitchen countertop, another becomes part of the fireplace mantle. It’s seriously unlike anything I’d ever seen. And throughout, I noticed Wright’s unique style of “compression and release” – using tight, narrow stone staircases and hallways that then “release” into the rooms at the other end.
Kentuck Knob
Just down the road is Kentuck Knob, a hexagonal shaped home and prime example of Wright’s famous Usonian style of one-level, affordable living. Sometimes referred to as “Fallingwater’s child,” Kentuck Knob was designed into the existing hillside so it is “of the hill,” continuing Wright’s one-with-nature theme. The home has the trademark floor-to-ceiling windows and mitered glass that open to the sweeping views of the forest and dramatic Youghiogheny River Gorge. Inside is filled with a dramatic fireplace made of local sandstone as well as cypress wood in Wright’s signature Cherokee red color. Wright’s compress-and-release philosophy is evident here as well, complete with a dining room with ceilings so low one can’t help but sit down at the table. A rather claustrophobic hallway is only 21” wide, which the original owners admitted they never once used in their 20+ years at the home.
Local Eats
But this is, of course, the Dining Traveler, and so good eats are also a must. I personally love the roadside mom-and-pop type eateries, such as Bittersweet Café, conveniently located near both Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob. Owner Terri Krysak and her husband man the kitchen and their two sons handle the counter. The cafe serves some pretty mean lattes with delicious housemade syrups! Sandwiches and soups feature local ingredients. I sampled the Bird, a chicken panini, as well as a delicious (especially on a cold day) winter squash soup. I even got to meet mascot Bob the Cat and spend some time browsing the adjacent antiques store (all family-owned).
Where to Stay
And if you ever want to know what it’s like to truly live in a Frank Lloyd Wright home in Laurel Highlands, the Duncan House at Polymath Park, is one of the few properties in the world open to overnight guests. The experience is quite in demand as reservations book up to a year in advance. Duncan House was brought from Illinois to Polymath Park about a decade ago by architect Tom Papinchak. A self-proclaimed Wright enthusiast, also owns and operates Treetops, a cozy restaurant on property with his wife, Heather. Offering a variety of salads and sandwiches for lunch with unique and healthy touches. For example, the side dish offered the day I had lunch wasn’t the typical fries or chips, but rather a rainbow quinoa salad. I’ve also heard raves for Treetops’ Sunday brunch and outdoor patio, where it really feels as though you’re dining among the trees.
Laurel Highlands Tour de Wright: The Verdict
If you’re an architecture enthusiast, design fan or one just interested in Wright’s sometimes amusing stories of stubbornness and indignation when it came to his work, you won’t want to miss the Laurel Highlands. Your tastebuds will thank you for the visit too.
This looks like a really beautiful place to visit. It seems so realxing. Also, the food by bittersweet cafe looks delicious.
That sandwich looks delish indeed!
This is where I grew up!!!
What a beautiful place to grow up!
Yes pretty but boring. LOL. I did enjoy Falling Water and Nemacolin Woodlands,
Looks like a gem. My hometown is home to the Park Inn Hotel, the last know hotel in the world designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. When I came across your article, I was intrigued. I did not know that Pennsylvania was home to some of his properties, yet it should not surprise me.
I love the concept of organic architecture, I’m quite obsessed with TV shows which show extreme and incredible homes at the moment, and there’s usually a big emphasis on designers who have created homes to be at one with nature and built them sustainably into the landscape. Thanks for the heads up about being able to stay overnight at Duncan House at Polymath Park – I would love to visit and take my passion for these homes from the TV screen to a real experience!
This area looks absolutely gorgeous, I would likely sell my soul to live with a waterfall under my house! Such a unique thing to do in the Pittsburgh area — thanks for sharing!
Such an interesting building. I don’t think I have seen anything similar. The Kentuck Knob is really cool. I love the use of nature and it kind of reminds me of the architecture of Rudolf Steiner School, just not as luxurious as this. Would love to stay there. Crazy you need to book in a year in advance though. Thank you for this info. 😀
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