It’s interesting to see semi-apocalyptic articles about the state of Puerto Rico due to its financial crisis (example: this poorly researched article from the Washington Post about Zika and the Financial Crisis in Puerto Rico) and how it may scare travelers from visiting the island. It almost made the island look like you’re entering an Ebola infested Liberia… Many articles are simply written by people who go off on poor sources but have never bothered to visit the island. Note: if you want a good overview of the situation on island, I felt that John Oliver did a great job breaking it down on his latest episode of “Last Week Tonight”.
Photo Credit: Italo Morales
As I prepare my book, Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico, I get a lot of questions about the crisis of Puerto Rico (both financial and Zika) and how it affects, if any, the travelers. I’ve traveled to Puerto Rico several times this past year in preparation of my book, and I’m here to tell you that the situation on the ground is much different than it is depicted on the media. On my last trip, I spent a month traveling across the island, exploring everything from luxury resorts to family-run inns. I spent most of my time during photoshoots talking to local business owners, travelers, locals about their impressions. These are my observations:
Photo Credit: Italo Morales
I recall telling my mom about my intentions of writing a book about Puerto Rico and the first thing she said was “cuidado, las cosas estan malas por alla” (be careful, things are bad over there). Those are her impressions because although she was born and raised in Puerto Rico, she doesn’t spend that much time on the island these days, her opinions are formed on what she sees in the news. I live in NE Washington, DC and I know it’s not a good idea to hang out in New York Ave NE at 3am. I’ve lived in Brussels for six years, I know it’s not a good idea to walk alone in Schaerbeek at 11pm. Same rules apply in Puerto Rico. Don’t go joyriding in Santurce at 3am or take your $4k camera down to La Perla at night… I find it ironic that I’ve been robbed FIVE times in the capital of Europe (Brussels) and I’ve never had an incident in my numerous travels to Puerto Rico.
Photo Credit: Italo Morales
When I spoke to business owners about the crisis, the theme was the same. Their business with tourists remained relatively constant whereas they are hurting in the low season, when locals vacation with their family in the summer. We were at the Kiokos of Luquillo, a string of small food restaurants/shacks along the popular Luquillo Beach, talking to one of the owners and she said the toughest for her was last summer, when locals usually travel around the island. She said the drop was such that she had to let go of one of her employees. Unlike many other Caribbean destinations, in Puerto Rico you see locals consuming at the same restaurants, beaches, and hotels as tourists. To me, that’s the beauty of the island, there are no parallel lives between tourists, locals, and expats. That is what I fear may go away as locals leave to mainland or see their disposable income disappearing.
During my travels this past year, I’ve traveled with friends who are not Puerto Rican and knew very little of the crisis. As my friend Carla and I spent a Saturday beach hopping around Cabo Rojo on the southwest coast of the island, I ask her “did you know there’s a financial crisis in Puerto Rico?”. She responds: “really? We’re at the beach, there are tons of locals out, restaurants are packed.” My Dutch husband had the same impression as a traveler in Puerto Rico. He says: “when I think of a country on a financial crisis, I think of homeless people roaming the streets, which I saw very little of that in Puerto Rico, we see way more homeless people in Washington, DC. When we traveled deep into the country side, I did see some run down homes and roads, however, all the services I needed when traveling were working up to par like in the United States.”
Photo Credit: Italo Morales
When I talk to my friends and family in Puerto Rico, which range from bankers to college professors, impressions are far from the grim perception seen in the media in the mainland. Some have reluctantly casted their job prospect net beyond Puerto Rico, while others have started businesses due to the crisis, but the common theme is that they all find creative ways to survive, all with a smile on their face. Many business owners I met on the road talked about reinventing themselves due to the financial situation in Puerto Rico. For example, Ivan from Sail San Juan Bay. He’s an engineer by trade who worked in the construction and IT industry. When job prospects dwindled he decided to put his hobby to work: a skilled sailor, he started Sail San Juan bay in which he shares the best views of San Juan on his sailboat. He says that although it was a big change for him, he enjoys his business and all the different people he meets through his business.
Photo Credit: Italo Morales
The one common theme I did hear from many of the local business owners in the island is how they see people from the mainland come to Puerto Rico, especially to towns like Rincon and Vieques and curb the process of getting permits from the local government or refuse to hire locals and the government does nothing to enforce it. I was appalled when I was in Vieques and several restaurants I went to had no Spanish speaking wait staff. I bet these are the same people who get incensed when people in the mainland “don’t speak English”. There’s an unemployment crisis, however, people come from Long Island to Boston to escape the cold and they can find a job… there’s something wrong with that picture. When you visit Puerto Rico, make sure you go on tours owned by locals and endorsed by the Puerto Rico Tourism Board as these businesses go through a lengthy vetting process to get their permits.
Photo Credit: Italo Morales
Yes, this thousand-word essay is to tell you that as a traveler, that the Puerto Rico budget crisis has nothing to do with your vacation. Head to the beach, have a Medalla beer (no container laws, yeay), enjoy your trip, and most importantly support LOCAL owned restaurants, tours, and hotels. In terms of Zika, here’s some great advice from the Center for Disease Control, CDC on how to stay safe. If you forget your OFF, don’t worry, there are plenty of Walgreens, Wal-Marts, and CVS on the island.
All photography Copyright Italo Morales for Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico.
Having been to this beautiful island, I was just thinking about how the crisis was going to affect tourism in Puerto Rico! Definitely agree with you that when visiting choose local vendors. Looking forward to your book!
Glad you enjoyed your time in Puerto Rico. Thanks re: the book! Looking forward to it as well!
I thought John Oliver’s take on Puerto Rico was brilliant as well. I have not been, but would not hesitate to go. The more I hear about the island, the more appealing it becomes. Fear sells in the media. One always has to look beyond the headlines.
Agree! Sad how media sometimes doesn’t realize that they have the power to run people out of business. Hope you make it to PR one day!
This article helps to take away the misconceptions from biased media reports. Locals eat,shop and support local bussines and tourists should do the same to enjoy the real PR experience.
Great article. My friend was just there for the Championship Volley Ball games. She had never been and to quote her “the people are lovely and the food is fantastic, just like you Ana”. I was thrilled to know that she loved PR as she has travelled all over the world and is from a very affluent and prominent family in Winter Park, Fl. You are absolutely right, Puerto Rico seems to never get the credit that it deserves for it’s abundance of natural beauty, incredible tasting cuisine and some of the best beaches in the world. I have been to PR numerous time and have always felt safe and welcomed.
Thank you. Who is your volleyball player friend?
I’ve lived here for four years. This is an amazing spot to vacation; If I ever decide to leave, I will surely be back.
It took a while to see through the differences in our cultures, but once you stop comparing it to the states, you’ll see it’s actually quite an amazing place.
Thanks.
Thanks for your perspective! I felt the same way when I moved to Brussels, the first few months was so hard to navigate! Then I started to assimilate the best I could and my experience changed for the better… Hope you continue to enjoy the island…
There are container laws in most towns, with fines beginning at $500… just an FYI
Crap! This whole time I’ve been drinking medallas on the beach and I could’ve been fined… gulp! Do you have link to which towns prohibit open container? Would be great to add it to the post…
For the most parts, on the beach it’s not an issue as long as it’s not a glass container – I meant open container like on the sidewalks, etc.
Wonderful article verifies my experience. I am from the Chicago area and you can’t keep track of the many murders every weekend. People still go there, enjoy it and spend money. Here in Puerto Rico the climate is great, food is amazing, beaches beautiful and people are friendly. I walk and jog for hours at Luquillo Beach every day. Tourists from all over the world visit. They all love it. They tell me this is the most beautiful and friendliest place they have ever visited. Not one of them complains about costs or expenses. Now in terms of the crisis….the poor, disabled and elderly as everywhere suffer the horrible consequences of fiscal mismanagement. If the media, politicians and loudmouthed no nothings would concentrate, focus on and look for and expect solutions there would be some sorely needed relief.
Agreed! Sad that the people suffer by the greediness of politicians (and that’s not exclusive to PR)…
Thanks for the positive article. We host teenagers and college groups mostly from the US, and from all over the world. We lost 5 teams who cancelled because of the zika hoax, this year.
That’s so sad. I just read that they also cancelled MLB games that were coming to the island… The fear mongering needs to stop.
I find it interesting that you’d finish a post all about the importance of supporting local economy (eateries, tours, etc..) by mentioning how easy it is to buy an industrial mosquito repellant in one of the (too) many mainland-owned chain store. There lies one of the many problems of Puerto Rico, how it is chocked by America’s Big Business! Also while it is true that there seems to be a disregard for permitting it is partially due the arcane process in place (are you aware of how kafkaesque it can be to try to set up shop in PR? ) and beyond that is perpetrated by business owners of all origins! Lastly while I agree with you that one should make the effort of being able to conduct business in the idiom of the country it chooses to do business in, one of the many effects of the current crisis with its massive exodus of population is the difficulty of staffing jobs (for ex: W Resort of Vieques, the largest employer on the island is constantly struggling to fill open positions locally).
I thought I would end the post with a bit of sarcasm (re: the walmart reference). I have friends and family members that are business owners on island, it’s a mess. In terms of hiring, I think that specialized posts, especially in a place like Vieques that can be quite isolated can be a challenge, but I am referring to normal waitressing/bartending jobs at small restaurants/cafes in places like Rincon and Vieques. My friend owns a Subway which requires basic English. The posted a cashier job and got 100 applications in a week… so yes, there are people lining up for jobs… It’s just easier to hire someone to looks and acts like you if you’re a foreign business owner…
Im sorry that doesn’t fly – using the word appalled and then encouraging people to only go to locally owned businesses is about as ignorant as it gets. Would you say the same in Brussels? Most of the local youngsters who want to work in our industry leave. The ones that remain don’t want to be in it at all. I know this because we constantly hire in my community. There is a drastic shortage of people who want this sort of work, and most of it is seasonal. All of the bartenders, local and otherwise, in my business speak enough English and Spanish to serve anyone. Please, next time you come to our island spare us your sanctimony and talk to us first,
I feel you are misguided as the crisis is just in the beginning stage. The default on bonds which provides income to many local investors and retirees is just about to happen. When the people cease to receive their income, how are they to pay for mortgages and groceries? When the banks stop receiving deposits and mortgage payments how will they continue to keep cash in their ATM,s? When the government continues to impound businesses for failing to pay their increased taxes, how will they keep people employed? This is just the beginning. Take a look at Greece. The civil unrest will start as soon as the much feared Oversight Committee takes the reins. Amparanos Señor de este terrible animal!
Thank you for an intelligent, thoughtful and accurate article. The WP and NYT have been a huge disappointment this year concerning our current affairs. To commiserate, we visited a BBQ joint in Rincon that didn’t speak Spanish. My PR husband and I were less than amused and left.
I live in Puerto Rico, and I agree with most of your points. In my town on the East coast, we have many bilingual locals, and no one from Boston is being hired over a local! There are tons of small businesses, and I know many have a second job to stay afloat. Puerto Ricans are surviving, but it is not easy. And I do not know anyone who even knows of anyone that had Zika, yup that rare. Come visit this beautiful island!
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