When I initially planned my trip to Bolivia, my sights were set on visiting the salt flats Salar de Uyuni. Planning the trip, I knew we would have to spend three days in La Paz to acclimate to the altitude, but that was not the focus of my itinerary.
As it turns out, the salt flats were amazing, but La Paz was also a fun, interesting city where three days goes by in an instant. There is plenty to marvel at, consume, and imbibe. I highly recommend spending at least three days in La Paz before heading to the flats. Not only will you get to enjoy La Paz but taking time to acclimate is very helpful…the altitude in Bolivia is no joke!
Where to Stay
Hotel Rosario La Paz: Located in the center of town, close to a teleferico line (the city’s aerial cable car urban transit system), this hotel was clean, comfortable and accommodating. It has a colonial style architecture, with an open-air courtyard and a restaurant which serves a great breakfast, complete with fresh-squeezed juices. Hotel Rosario La Paz also has 24 hours a day front desk staff who are helpful with directions and calling taxis.
What to Do
Red Cap City Tour: I always recommend kicking things off with a walking tour to orient yourself with the city. Our tour started off with a visit to Lanza market, where we visited small local shops serving freshly fried empanadas and apo, a warm breakfast drink made of purple corn. From there we went to San Pedro prison, a jail run as a small city by the inmates.
Afterwards, we hit up the famous witches market, calle jean which is a colorful colonial street, Murillo square, the central plaza of the city, and the famous San Francisco church. We walked through local street food markets, different neighborhoods and really got a feel for La Paz. One warning: it is a hilly city! Combined with the high altitude you may find yourself out of breath. Drink plenty of coca tea to ward off altitude sickness.
Cholita Wrestling: Historically, indigenous Bolivian men and women were treated poorly, disenfranchised and discriminated against throughout Bolivia. When President Murillo was elected in 2006 that began to change because of his role as a champion for the indigenous people. As such, cholitas were empowered to showcase their culture and they developed a theatrical type of wrestling called cholita wrestling. It is a must-see if you’re spending three days in La Paz, Bolivia.
It involves cholitas as luchadores or fighters where they are dressed in their traditional garb and engage in wrestling and fighting with men dressed as monsters. The cholitas fight back when thrown and beaten by the monsters, and symbolically defeat their oppressors. It is as comedic and entertaining as it sounds. You will laugh, cheer and scream throughout the show, which of course includes snacks and plenty of beer. I highly recommend this uniquely Bolivian experience. We booked our tickets through Red Cap, which provided us with transportation to the show as well as tickets and coupons for drinks.
Coca Museum: This museum is dedicated entirely to the study of the coca leaf. Learning about the medicinal uses, as well as the illicit uses, of the coca leaf was deeply interesting, as we understanding the impact of the coca leaf on the Bolivian economy. The museum also has a café where you can enjoy coca tea, coca ice cream, and even coca brownies.
Ride the Teleferico: We bought tickets and just rode around on the cable cars for hours. It is a fantastic way to see the city from a bird’s eye view. This is probably the most cost-effective way to get some amazing views while spending three days in La Paz.
Where to Eat and Drink
This is always the most important question! Bolivian food is simple, with an emphasis on potatoes, corn, bread, and vegetables that can grow in difficult terrains such as carrots and corn.
Gustu: For a local fine dining experience, Gustu is the place to go. The venue offers exquisite dishes such as locally foraged mushrooms with a poached egg, native potatoes roasted and served with pickled onions, a dulce de leche inspired mango custard dessert and an impeccable local wine list. Prepare to dine for hours and if you are lucky, the staff will treat you to a tour of the kitchen and pantry, where you can learn about local Bolivian herbs, plants, and spices.
Ali Pacha: This is another fine dining option, but with a twist – it is plant-based. Truly, it is one of the most creative meals I have ever had.
Berlusca: We loved this little Italian joint that served fresh bread, light vegetable soup and delicious dishes like homemade pasta with zucchini and a sweet Pomodoro sauce. A local specialty is pasta with fava beans and cheese: unusual but divine.
Café del Mundo: This fun, travel-themed café has an extensive international menu where there is something for everyone. From falafel burgers to nachos to pasta, you won’t be short of options. They also have cocktails, milkshakes and coffee drinks, and you can choose from oat milk or quinoa milk.
Popular Cocina Boliviana: One of the more interesting spots in La Paz, this casual restaurant serves a set menu that focuses dishes made with quintessential Bolivian ingredients like potatoes, quinoa, fresh fruit, and bread. The menu will include an appetizer which could be a creamy vegetable soup, an entrée such as a stuffed potato, a local potato stew, a savory quinoa dish, or Bolivian empanadas called salteñas. Dessert, complete with local fruits, is also included.
Café Sol Y Luna: Stop by for a Singani cocktail. Singani is Bolivia’s national liquor, a grape brandy which you can drink on the rocks or in a cocktail.
Three Days in La Paz, Bolivia: The Verdict
South America is truly a fascinating continent to explore. I highly recommend visiting Bolivia, including La Paz. Three days in La Paz only scratches the surface but it’s worth the trip!
