Ramse Morales is an energetic, humble and positive person. In typical Puerto Rican fashion, he says hello to everybody we encounter at Las Marias beach. Everybody knows who Ramse is, seems like the mayor of the beach! He says one of his goals with Surfing Lessons Puerto Rico is to share an authentic Puerto Rican surfing experience. We witnessed that as he gave a father and his three children surfing lessons. He has a perfect balance of talent and humbleness that makes him approachable.

I had the opportunity to interview him and he had some great insights about the west coast of Puerto Rico.

Dining Traveler Interview with Ramse Morales 

Ramse, Tell Us a Bit About Yourself:

I am from Puerto Rico, I was born in the western area of ​​the big island and live in the town of Rincón. Since 1987, I have been dedicated to surfing as a national and international competitor. After having traveled to different places around the world, I decided to become surf coach. That’s when I decided to establish my business, Surf Lessons Puerto Rico & Adventures.

Share Your Favorite Parts of the West Coast of Puerto Rico?

The islands of Puerto Rico have a simple peculiarity, Puerto Rico is the smallest island in the Greater Antilles. This geography places us in the very center of the arch of the Antilles. Our island, specifically the northwest area of ​​Puerto Rico is very diverse especially for two simple and good reasons: for its surf beaches and for its food. The area has more than 150 hotels and around 50 restaurants.

What are your favorite places to eat?

The gastronomy Puerto Rico strikes a balance between fine dining, casual small restaurants and food trucks famously called “Chinchorito”. To be able to list each one of these places can take me a full day!

Ramse’s Dining Picks:

Around ​​Rincon: Parrilleria Vacas Gauchas, Estela Restaurant, Capriccio Trattoria 

Aguadilla:  Palmas Café and Arepas to go and More

​​Isabela: CLMDO (this places is extremely delicious) 

If there were only three places to see in the west coast of Puerto Rico, what would they be?

Isabela, Aguadilla and Rincon

We must say, we agree with Ramse Morales! As a matter of fact, we tried CLMDO in Isabela and loved the experience. We need to go back and join Ramse for a surf lesson and indulge at the many restaurants he mentioned!

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Dining Traveler Picks:  Beaches in Puerto Rico

When in San Juan:  Those who live in Puerto Rico know the best beaches are not in San Juan. Sorry.  However, when it’s 10 degrees Fahrenheit in the East Coast and you only have 72 hours on island you’ll take something close to the airport!  My favorite beach in San Juan is Ocean Park.  It’s a neighborhood beach where locals go for a few hours of sunshine, to walk their dogs, and spot a few kite surfers.  During the weekdays the vibes are very chill but it can get pretty crowded on the weekends.  Getting there: Google Maps Link to Ocean Park.  Dining Traveler Tip:  head to Kasalta bakery before or after your beach outing for some of the best sandwiches and pastries on island.

Family Beach:  One of the beaches in Puerto Rico I always recommend to my friends with kids is Luquillo Beach on the northeast side of the island.  The water is shallow and clear and many locals bring their families there.  There’s plenty of parking and the famous Kiosks of Luquillo are right next to the beach where you can indulge in all the fried Puerto Rican delicacies:  empanadas, stuffed plantains (piononos), and alcapurrias.  Wash them down with medallas (local beer) if the kids are stressing you out.  Getting there: Google Maps Link to Luquillo Beach.  Dining Traveler Tip:  Beach too crowded?  Head east on the beach for 20 minutes and you’ll find less crowded spots.

Local Beach:  One of my favorite beaches in Puerto is Inches Beach in the town of Patillas.  Is it the most beautiful beach? No.  Is there something remarkable? Not really.  However, it’s a beach that has sentimental value to me.  My dad used to take us there to eat something on the beach and hang out.  Also what makes the beach special is the journey:  take the long way along Route 3 for some beautiful views of the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea coming together.  Getting there:  Google Maps Link to Inches.  Dining Traveler Tip:  During the non-hurricane season, the rocky beach is clear and calm, during hurricane season (late summer/early fall), it’s a surfer’s spot.

Off-the-beaten path:  Don’t disregard the southern coast of the island when looking for great beaches in Puerto Rico. I visited Playa Buye for the first time last year as I was researching for Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico and it was love at first sight.  It’s not an easy beach to get to as you have to cross a residential neighborhood and it may look a bit dodgy, but when you arrive, it’s pure paradise.  With barely no waves, blue waters, it’s the perfect beach to just chill. Getting there: Google Maps Link to Playa Buye.  Dining Traveler Tip: make this one of your last stops of your beach day as the sunset is epic!

Gem of the South:  Aside from Playa Buye, there are some great beaches in Puerto Rico lining the southwestern coast.  One of my favorites is Combate Beach located in Cabo Rojo.  The water is turquoise, light sand, and calm.  Whether you’re traveling with your family or alone with a book, the beach offers great views.  At the end of the day, head to Annie’s Place for a passion fruit mojito to catch the sunset.  Getting there: Google Maps Link to Combate Beach. Dining Traveler Tip: Making a weekend out of your trip to Cabo Rojo? Stay at Parador Combate Beach, a local owned guesthouse.

Surfer’s Paradise:  Las Marias Beach in Rincon is where I first tried my hand at surfing back in 2011. I recently returned to photograph for my book and it was just as awesome as it was five years ago.  There, you interact with surfers of all backgrounds and skill levels. Getting there: Google Maps Link to Las Marias.  Dining Traveler Tip:  If you’re looking for an awesome local instructor, look up Ramse at Surf Lessons Puerto Rico.

Local Favorite:  If you ask locals or those in the diaspora for their top five beaches in Puerto Rico, you may hear the word “Crashboat Beach” often.  There’s a reason why:  with clear blue waters, a pier to jump off of and fine sand, it’s a great place to hang out and make a beach day on the northwest coast of Puerto Rico.  Given it’s a favorite, it can get quite crowded on the weekends so I advise to go either on a weekday or early in the morning on weekends.  Getting There: Google Maps Link to Crashboat Beach.  Dining Traveler Tip: Bring your snorkel!  There is some great sea life to be seen close to the pier…

Beach with a View:  Playa Jobos is another beach known for surfing, located in the town of Isabela on the northern coast of the island.  Playa Jobos strikes the perfect balance: there’s an area with high swells, perfect for surfers and a lagoon like area for those who love their surfers but don’t want to hit the swells.  Getting There: Google Maps Link to Playa Jobos.  Dining Traveler Tip:  bring some sneakers or hiking shoes and head to the high point on the rocky coastline, it’s great to see the contrast between the calm lagoon and the fury of the Atlantic.

Idyllic Views:  Playa Flamenco is not only considered one of the best beaches in Puerto Rico but in the world.  Folks, the hype is real.  Playa Flamenco is located in Culebra, a small island off the East Coast of Puerto Rico.  There, you’ll find a soft stretch of white sand, beautiful turquoise waters, and a relaxed vibe.  I also like the fact that the beach has accessible parking, functioning bathrooms, delicious kiosks with local food, and for the more adventurous ones: campgrounds.  Getting there:  Google Maps Link to Flamenco Beach.  Dining Traveler Tip:  You can get there via ferry from Fajardo or a short flight from San Juan or Ceiba.

Uncommon Beach:  I recently visited Playa Negra in Vieques and was quickly taken by this small, hidden beach.  My humble opinion:  Vieques has some of the best beaches in Puerto Rico.  It may be a sticker shock to rent a jeep to get around the island, but it is worth it.  From Caracas Beach to La Chiva, this island off the east coast of Puerto Rico will make you not leave. However, Playa Negra is my favorite as it is a bit of a journey to get there. You have to park on the side of the road, and take a ten minute walk to the beach. Once you’re there, it’s a tiny slice of paradise with silky black sand and turquoise waters.  Getting There: Google Maps to Playa Negra. Dining Traveler Tip:  The path to Playa Negra is a bit rough, make sure you bring bug spray and close toed shoes!

I can add a few more “honorable mentions” of beaches in Puerto Rico that I recommend:  Seven Seas in Fajardo, Playa Sucia in Cabo Rojo, Playa Melones in Culebra but there’s not enough space in this post!  Whether you have lived in Puerto Rico all your life or you’re a tourist, I suggest getting in your car or rental and discover your own favorite beach on the island.  What’s your favorite beach in Puerto Rico?  Share in the comments! I make it a point to go to a new spot every time I travel back to the island…

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Dining Traveler Tips: What to Pack for an Island Road Trip

PACK Gear:  Given the nature of our trip, I dusted off my huge backpack that I haven’t used since I don’t remember when.  I got a PACK Gear Organizing System which worked perfectly with my backpack. Also found that even large backpacks are a bit easier to load in a car than suitcases. Instead of digging into the bottom of my pack, it allows me to place everything into the pockets of the organizer.  All you have to do is pull out the organizer out of the backpack and hang it in the closet to grab your clothing items. What surprised me the most was that I was able to fit four weeks’ worth of clothing in the PACK Gear Organizing System.  If you want to give your backpack a second chance like I did, head to PACK Gear website and use the code Dining15 for a 15% discount on your order.  I’m taking mine to Okinawa next for my six week trip. Looking for a fashionable backpack? Check out this comprehensive leather backpack guide.

Snacks:  Sometimes we get so wrapped up on what to pack on an island road trip that we forget some of the most important things: snacks!!! As much as I love my frituras (fried Puerto Rican roadside food), I tried my best to be mindful about what we were munching on while we were on the road.  We stopped at a lot of fruit stands and stocked up on local bananas, papayas, and fresh coconut water. Dining Traveler Tip: pack zip lock bags to keep your fruits fresh after cutting (many roadside stands will cut the fruit for you).

Another option for healthy snacks are protein bars.  I recently tried Promax protein bars (The Original Promax Lemon Bar) and I must say – they were pretty yummy.  While other protein bars have a chalky aftertaste, these bars have a nice lemony flavor and fill you up until the next stop. None of Promax’s products have any artificial sweeteners, preservatives, high fructose corn syrup, maltitol, or gelatin, and they’re all gluten-free, kosher, and vegetarian. Given that you can check all of these boxes when it comes to Promax bars, they work well when you’re on a road trip with people who have different dietary needs.  When the desire to bite into a meaty empanada started to take over, these bars came to the rescue!

Phone Chargers:  As we all know, an active GPS sucks the life out of your cell phone.  I’ve had the worst luck with car chargers but my dual USB port charger from Insignia at Best Buy has worked out great. At first I was taken by the $24.99 price tag for something so small, but so far, it has worked out great (I’ve had it for almost a year).  I also like the fact that it has a dual USB since I am Android and my road companion had an iPhone.  Another item I found handy was the power bank that Italo brought. He can charge his phone up to 6 times!  He picked his up at a market in Hong Kong but I found a similar one on Amazon for $23.99.

Toiletries on the Go:  What to pack on an island road trip when one has to stay in 12 different places?  When Squeeze Pod sent me a sampler of their goodies, I was intrigued. I decided to pack them along to give them a try.  Given that our lodging consisted of staying with friends and AirBnB, it was great to have consistent toiletries on the road.  My favorite items are the moisturizing lotion (love the lemony smell) and the natural toilet odor eliminator.  My only wish is that the lotion pods were slightly bigger since I had to use two for my body.

Hello, Mosquito:  Upon arriving to Puerto Rico, we were delivered the news of the Zika virus. The thought that our big production can take a halt due to illness made us run to the drug store immediately and buy insect repellent. When figuring out what to pack for an island road trip, I highly recommend making insect repellent a main item on your list.  We were old school and went with regular OFF!, it worked pretty well for us.  However, I am curious about organic mosquito repellents. Does anyone have a suggestion?

Anti-bacterial gel:  I couldn’t help but to pet a wild horse that approached our car in Vieques.  I may have petted a few stray dogs as well… I highly recommend packing a small anti-bacterial gel to keep in your car.  Being on tropical island with lots of flora and fauna, it’s best to keep this handy.

Toilet Paper:  Nature may call when you are on the road and the last thing you need is a bathroom with no TP. I learned this from my Marine days in the field, one just never knows…. One of the first things I did was buy a roll and keep it in the car.  It came handy for a few coffee spills in the car….

Compact Beach Towel:  This is the last thing I would have thought of when thinking on what to pack for an island road trip.  I learned about this gem from my road partner. He had this super compact microfiber towel he carried on his backpack.  He said he had it for years and couldn’t remember where he got it from.  I did a little investigation on Amazon in order to get one and discovered turkish bath towels. They are just as compact as the microfiber but with beautiful colors and prints. Sold.

Reusable Water Bottle:  It’s amazing on how much money you can save by having a reusable water bottle. Not only are you saving money but helping the environment.  In Puerto Rico, tap water is suitable for drinking so we filled up before hitting the road and most casual restaurants allowed us to fill up when getting back on the road.  If you want to take an extra step of precaution, check out filtered water bottles like Bobble.  I forgot to bring mine to Puerto Rico but it works pretty well, also, I don’t see any change in the flavor of the water.

Dining Traveler Tips:  When considering what to pack for an island road trip, check out what’s the shopping situation at your destination.  For example, Puerto Rico being part of the US, access to products such as OFF! and anti-bacterial gels are quite easy, we didn’t have to deal with packing those items before arrival.  This comes in handy if traveling with a carry-on or limited space.

Do you love tropical road trips? What are you tips on what to pack for an island road trip?

Disclaimer: some of these items featured on “What to Pack for an Island Road Trip” were gifted to me (Promax, Squeeze Pod, and PACK Gear) by the brands, but as always, opinions are my own.  Dining Traveler makes a good guinea pig for products you may be interested in trying out! 

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Getting there:  a drive to the west coast of Puerto Rico will take you from 2-3 hours from San Juan.  Additionally, Jet Blue also offers routes to smaller airports such as Aguadilla and Ponce, brining you closer to the west coast.  Renting a car is easy in Puerto Rico. For my latest trip, I booked my car rental via Expedia.com where I got a great deal with Sixt Rent a Car.  Dining Traveler Tip:  when looking for a car rental, consider booking from a rental off-terminal for a steep discount.  Many like Sixt offer a complimentary shuttle to/from airport.  People complain about traffic in Puerto Rico but if you’re coming from places such as DC, you will look at locals crazy when they complain about “el tapon” (traffic jam).

West Coast of Puerto Rico Road Trip Itinerary:

Day 1 & 2:  Arrive in Cabo Rojo.  I suggest starting in this town as it is the southernmost point of the island and working your way north along the coast.  Cabo Rojo is filled with calm waters which I love to call “nature’s swimming pool”.  If you are traveling with small children, I recommend Combate Beach, Playa Buye, and Playa Sucia as the beaches are shallow and relatively surf-free.  Perfect for swimming.   For the nature lovers:  Cabo Rojo is also filled with natural wonders such as the Salinas de Cabo Rojo.  These salt mines give the protected area pink sandy beaches, perfect for photos.  Punta Guaniquilla has cave-like rock formations and the Puente de Piedra is also a not-to-miss attraction.

In the evening, take a 30-minute drive to La Parguera in the neighboring town of Lajas, where you can hop on a boat to the bioluminescent area. Due to environmental challenges, the organisms do not shine as bright as they used to, but the $9 boat ride under the stars is still worth it.

Where to eat:  I was hesitant to go to Annie’s Place as it seemed very touristy.  However, I was proved wrong.  The fresh passion fruit sangria was one of the best cocktails I’ve had in Puerto Rico.  Dining Traveler Tip:  plan your dinners at sunset, they are pretty epic on the west coast of Puerto Rico!  Snacks for the beach?  Go to the fruit stand of Parada La 100 for cold coconuts, papayas, and local made honey to bring home.  Head to Sangre Boricua in Joyuda for their well-known craft sangria and seafood dishes.

Where to stay:  Feeling adventurous?  Stat at one of the most beautiful AirBNB I’ve experienced, The “Jungalo” with its outdoor kitchen and boho-chic decor.  Looking for more classic accommodations? Combate Beach Resort is a local-owned small inn (Parador) with spacious rooms, direct access to the beach, and most importantly (at least for me, wi-fi).  Bonus: the staff there is one of the friendliest I’ve encountered on island.

Day 3 & 4: Head to Rincon.  On your way to Rincon, stop by Mayaguez for lunch.  Mayaguez is the second largest city in Puerto Rico.  Among locals, it is known to be a fun college town.  There are two foodie items the town is known for:  Brazo Gitano (jelly roll) and Sangria Fido.  You cannot take a road trip to the west coast of Puerto Rico without having those!  Have lunch at Ricomini Bakery.  Although they have several locations, head to the one in the city center.  Their sandwiches are to die for!  Try one of their meaty medianoche sandwiches.  There, you can also purchase your Brazo Gitano to take on the road…

Upon arriving in Rincon you may ask yourself “am I still in Puerto Rico?”  as many gringos have flocked to that area for the perfect surf conditions and laid back atmosphere.  My first time in Rincon years ago I took surf lessons and it was an amazing experience.  The swells are not as intimidating as the ones I’ve seen in Hawaii but big enough to channel your inner surfer.  Most recently, we had the chance to spend the morning with Ramse of Surf Lessons Puerto Rico, a local owned surf school at Las Marias Beach as he led a hands-on surfing class.  There, you can see the beautiful people of Rincon, locals and visitors alike surfing along the coast.  For the best vantage point, head to El Faro to catch all the surfing action from above.

Where to eat:  Catch another epic sunset at La Copa Llena with a great happy hour ($2 medalla beers, and $4 well drinks) and delicious tapas such as flash fried cauliflower and anchovy montaditos.  If you love seafood, head to La Cambija, a local-owned establishment which started as a skewer stand and has evolved into a full service restaurant.  There, choose from fresh catch such as red snapper and dorado for fresh fish tacos.  For those looking for a vegetarian dish, check out Jack’s Shack food truck.   They have veggie friendly items such as veggie burritos and quinoa salads.

Where to stay:  Rincon has a great selection of vacation rentals.  We were a huge fan of the AirBNB in which we stayed.  If you’re looking for ultimate luxury, stay at the Horned Dorset Primavera with its Moroccan inspired rooms, breakfast with an ocean view, and a pool surrounded by the lush vegetation of the property.  The owner, Austrian-born, Wilhelm has been living in Puerto Rico for 20 years. He can be seen roaming around the property with his adorable rescue dogs.

Day 5 & 6:  Aguada & Aguadilla:  The beauty of taking a Puerto Rico west coast road trip is the diversity you get to experience along the way when it comes to beaches.  If you are a surfer, the beaches of Rincon may seem a bit crowded for you.  Drive to neighboring Aguada for more swells in a much rustic environment. Head to beaches along route 441 for a more local experience.

Aguadilla is home to one of my favorite beaches in Puerto Rico, Crashboat Beach. The clear turquoise waters, the old pier where you can jump off of, transports me back to my college days when I first discovered this beach.  Make sure to bring a snorkel as you can see plenty of fish swimming along the pier. Lesser known to tourists is the area called “Muelle de Azucar” (sugar pier) where if you’re brave enough you can jump from a pretty high point.

Where to Eat:  One of my most epic meals I’ve had in Puerto Rico has been at Marullo, with inventive dishes such as tuna with guava sauce and curried chicken. For a light lunch,  Levain Bakery is a favorite of locals in Aguadilla.

Where to Stay:  If looking for a unique, affordable lodging experience, stay at Grateful Souls Hostel in Aguada.  This beachfront property has shared rooms and offers activities like yoga, rainforest walks, and cooking lessons during high season. More about my stay here. If your lodging preferences are a bit more classic, the Courtyard Aguadilla offers all the classic amenities and it is closely located to Crashboat Beach.  Additionally, there are many vacation rentals in this area via AirBNB and Home Away.

The verdict:  if you prefer a more laid back, local experience, taking a Puerto Rico road trip on the west coast may be an option for you. The roads are a bit more rugged than San Juan or the East Coast of the island but it provides you a unique perspective of the island.  From the sleeping beach of Playa Combate to the roaring waves of Rincon, the west coast of Puerto Rico is definitely an experience not to be missed.  Have you taken a Puerto Rico road trip?  What have been your highlights?

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Cabo Rojo (Three hour drive from San Juan): If you love understated vibes, head to Cabo Rojo on the southwest point of the island. Make sure to visit Playa Sucia, Playa Combate or Playa Buye for calm clear waters, local vibes, and uncrowded beaches. See the town come alive on the weekends at La Parguera which is lined with bars, restaurants, and live music.  Take a tour of the bioluminescent waters in the evening. If you are looking for an authentic experience with little outside tourists, this is the place for you. This past summer I got to explore much more of Puerto Rico beyond San Juan in preparation for my book, Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico. I was immediately taken by the west coast, an area which I admit I don’t get to go that often as my family and friends are in the north and southeast part of the island. 

Where to Stay:  Cabo Rojo has plenty of smaller inns and apartment rentals. Must check out: the “jungalo” built by a German expat offered on AirbNb.

Rincon, Aguada, and Aguadilla (Two and a half hour drive from San Juan): These neighboring towns on the west coast of Puerto Rico have been gaining more attention due to mainlanders setting up shop because of its amazing surfing. Rincon has been a surfer’s favorite for many years and its neighbor, Aguada has been gaining attention recently with several hostels catering to surfers such as Grateful Souls Hostel. For those who love underwater adventures, Aguadilla is the place for you.  There are several wreckages near the area you can dive or snorkel around. This local favorite is known for its colorful fishing boats which line the coast.

Where to eat: Local favorite Marullo’s Art Cuisine in Aguada has an inspired cuisine by Chef George who specializes in local seafood.

Ponce: Locals call it La Perla del Sur (the pearl of the south). A ninety-minute drive from San Juan, it’s the second largest city on the island.  Take a trip back in time at its art deco town square (la plaza) with the black and red stripped antique firehouse and beautifully preserved buildings.  La Guancha, a local favorite is known for its amazing sunsets, casual restaurants, and a marina in which you can rent paddleboards or kayaks and glide through the clear and calm waters.

Where to Stay:  Hotel Belgica is a small boutique hotel built during the turn of the century located off the town square of Ponce. Many of its details have been preserved such as the lobby furniture, paintings, and dark wooden doors.

Guavate (45 minute drive from San Juan): The mountainous center of Puerto Rico is where the traditional flavors of the island come alive. Route 184 can get busy on weekends when locals head to Guavate for lechon (split roasted pork). Have a Don Q rum cocktail (the rum of choice on the island) and enjoy live music at many of the lechoneras along the route.  Once a month, my family would make a day trip of it, indulging in favorites such as arroz con gandules(rice and pigeon peas) and guineitos (poached green bananas) alongside the savory roasted pork.

Favorite lechonera: Lechonera Los Pinos.

Fajardo, Rio Grande, and Luquillo: Those who prefer luxury travel, this area, less than an hour’s drive from San Juan is for you. If you stay in the Waldorf-Astoria El Conquistador, you have access to one of the most beloved outer islands, Palomino. The resort has exclusive access to it with a private ferry which shuttles hotel’s guests.  One of my favorite beaches in Fajardo with easy access by car is Seven Seas.  The clear calm waters makes it perfect for swimming and don’t forget to bring your snorkel as there are some small reefs close to shore.  No trip to Puerto Rico is complete without a trip to El Yunque, the only rainforest in the US National Park Service.  On a clear day, take a hike to the top of El Yunque for epic views of the east coast of the island.  Tip:  head there on a weekday in the early morning.  During the weekends it is crowded with locals and tourist alike.

Where to stay:  If you prefer a smaller property compared to the large resorts nearby, check out El Hotelito near the rainforest grounds.

Culebra: Less than an hour plane ride from San Juan or a two hour ferry ride from Fajardo, there is Culebra, one of the most stunning islands I have ever been to (no, I am not being biased). Playa Flamenco is an idyllic crescent shaped beach that has been voted many times as one of the top beaches in the world.  With its white sand and clear blue waters, it is definitely a paradise.  Although many visitors set up shop at Flamenco (there are camp grounds there as well), rent a jeep and discover the lesser known beaches. Bring your snorkels to Playa Tamarindo and become acquainted with the sea turtles or discover the quietness of Playa Zoni.

Where to Eat: Start your day with a ham, egg, and cheese sandwich at Pan Deli bakery.

Vieques: The largest outer island of Puerto Rico is Vieques. Compared to its bohemian sister Culebra, you can find a W Hotel along with other smaller boutique hotels. La isla nena (little girl island), as it is known to locals is known for its pristine beaches where it is common to witness wild horses frolicking on the beach.  Puerto Rico has several bioluminescent areas, however, the most stunning is the bay in Vieques.  Book an evening kayak tour and witness the sea come to life.

Where to Eat:  Explore the inventive cuisine of Puerto Rican celebrity chef Jose Enrique at El Blok.

There are many more reasons to discover Puerto Rico beyond San Juan.  You will encounter friendly people, savor the true flavors of the island and get to see why locals go on roadtrips across the island on the weekends.  Internal tourism has become very popular during the last few years with popular Instagram accounts such as @WhateverPR and @backpackingPR featuring little known spots on the island.  Follow their accounts to explore more local gems as you prepare your trip.  Next month I will be headed to Puerto Rico to work on my book, Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico.  What is your favorite place in Puerto Rico Beyond San Juan? Share in the comments!

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Getting There:  Royal Isabela is an hour and a half drive to San Juan with moderate traffic.  Avoid driving there in the late afternoon from San Juan as there is a lot of commuter traffic.  On my way to Royal Isabela, I was involved in a car accident.  I was waiting at a traffic stop when a car rear-ended me. Thankfully everyone involved was not injured but the shock of the accident took over my mood.  I called the hotel as I had a dinner reservation and wanted to let them know I was running late.  When I arrived, I was asked by the front desk and the hotel manager how I was feeling and if I needed anything.  That immediately put me at ease and made me feel at home right away.

The Villas: Royal Isabela is a set of “casitas”, beautifully appointed one-bedroom villas sitting atop a hill with a gorgeous view of the ocean.  Although each casita has an individual plunge pool, there are two, large common area pools available to the guests.  The villa decor remind me of my trip to Kenya with the dark woods, neutral colors, and canopied bed.  Coincidentally, I find out later that the décor was actually inspired by one of the owner’s trip to South Africa. The villa had a large living room, sitting area, large bathroom with tub and double shower, and a bedroom.  The one minus was the welcome note.  Apparently the housekeeping got the welcome notes mixed up and mine was addressed to a different name.

The Food:  There is a renaissance of traditional dishes on the island and Royal Isabela’s La Casa Restaurant has fully embraced it.  The restaurant, headed by executive Chef José Carles (who also happens to be from my hometown of Guayama) offers a tasting menu of Puerto Rican classics.  My favorites of the evening included a soup of “verduras”, traditional root vegetables such as taro, pumpkin, and cassava blended together.  The scent immediately took me back to my childhood.  The “serenata de bacalao”, a salad with fresh avocado and salted cod was another favorite.  Chef Carles also served gnocchi made with yucca with a tomato and eggplant sauce.  There’s a love for all things local at La Casa Restaurant with many of the ingredients of the ingredients are sourced from the garden on property and some of the fish caught by the chef himself.

The Property:  As much as I love to explore a new destination, I could easily stay in the Royal Isabela grounds for several days without leaving the property!  I haven’t done 18 holes of golf in a few years but I was inspired by their scenic golf course.  It also helps that the owners, brothers Charlie and Stanley Pasarell and Edwin Perez are avid golfers.  Not into golf?  Guests can arrange for golf lessons and there’s also a driving range to practice your game.  I wish I would have time to hit some balls!

Royal Isabela also has access to a secluded beach, which is a 20 minute walk from the property.  I got quite the workout just getting to the beach but enjoyed the walk through the lush forest. If you have physical limitations, beach access may be an issue or you may want to head to a nearby beach such as Playa Jobos with easy access and parking.

The Service:  Some of the challenges with luxury properties is there can be an air of pomposity with staff.  This is not the case at Royal Isabela.  I found the whole staff from the manager to the housekeeping staff very welcoming.  I also had the opportunity to dine with one of the owners, Stanley Pasarell.  One of the things that impressed me about Mr. Pasarell was his down-to-earth demeanor.  He knew the name of all the staff members, to include the busboys and also where they were from and their interests.  The following morning I also observed how him and his brother, Charlie greeted each of the guests at breakfast and asked them detailed questions about their stay.

The verdict:  I may get in trouble saying this because I hate to pick favorites… but Royal Isabela is one of my new favorite lodging experiences in Puerto Rico.  From the beautiful beaches to the cozy villas, it’s definitely a top luxury pick on the island.

Disclaimer: I was hosted by Royal Isabela, but as always, opinions are my own.

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As I enter the large stainless steel kitchen, I see line cooks stuffing hens with mofongo (a Puerto Rican dish of mashed fried green plantains) and a pot of simmering stew with the savory scent taking over the space.  Orchestrating the culinary symphony, was Chef Maria, in her bright fuchsia chef coat and colorful chef’s clogs to match.  She has the contagious smile combined with a strong, command presence.

She begins to show me on how she makes her Puerto Rican take on ratatouille canapes, one of the most requested items on her event cocktail menu.  As she starts to chop the onion, she talks about her passion for food.  She began her career as a chef twenty-four years ago at what is now is known as El Conquistador Resort.  Although she has been with El Condado Plaza for sixteen years, she has traveled throughout the Caribbean and as far as Sri Lanka, collaborating with other chefs and drawing inspiration from her travels.

As I see her making the ratatouille, I quickly noticed this is a very Boricua (Puerto Rican) take on the dish.  The eggplant is grown locally in a farm in the center of Puerto Rico.  She also uses longaniza (a version of chorizo) and queso del país (local white cheese of Puerto Rico).  Although she serves a diverse audience on a daily basis, the tries to inject a touch of Puerto Rico with her menu items.  This is also seen in her ceviche, on which I detect sweet Puerto Rican mangoes.

I enjoyed hearing Maria’s stories as she chopped and sautéed.  Chef Maria has been working the kitchens of some of Puerto Rico’s most beloved properties for over two decades.  She says one of her favorite parts has been to cater weddings and then see other family members and siblings follow suit with the same menu at the hotel.  As the end of the demo, we snack on our canapes as we take a walk along the turquoise blue waters which line El Condado Plaza Hilton.  I bet there’s a daily dose of culinary inspiration with that amazing view!

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Dining Traveler’s Picks: Places to Eat in San Juan

Santaella: The Placita (farmer’s market) of Santurce has been a center of Puerto Rican food for decades.  Lately, there’s been a crop of amazing restaurants popping up in that area. One of them is Santaella.  I recently dined there and the menu is deliciously inventive.  Try the crab on a large bed of fried shredded plantains (aranitas) and the fried red snapper.  Dining Traveler Tip:  The restaurant is quite busy in the evening, lunch service is much more relaxed.

St. Germain:  Old San Juan is one of my favorite places in Puerto Rico. With its colorful buildings and its narrow cobblestone streets, it is popular with locals and tourists alike.  St Germain has a hip fresh vibe merging European and Puerto Rican cuisine.  I had a deliciously colorful salad with skirt steak and local veggies.  Dining Traveler Tip:  My friends rave about their brunch, be sure to make a reservation.

Pirilo Pizza Rustica:  Another local favorite in Old San Juan is Pirilo Pizza Rustica.  Located in Calle Fortaleza, it is a tiny spot beloved by tourists and locals alike.  I enjoyed their large pizzas which arrive on a pedestal at your table.  The prices are reasonable, especially for Viejo San Juan.  Not to miss: their sangria.  It has a unique touch of crushed anise, delicious.

Casa Cortes Chocobar:  Cortes Chocolate has been a staple of Puerto Rican cuisine for many years.  I recall dipping thick slices of gouda cheese into my hot chocolate cortes as a kid growing up on the island.  This classic combination (at least for Puerto Ricans) comes alive in their chocolate grilled cheese sandwich.  When I saw it on the menu I was intrigued and it did not disappoint. It took me back to my childhood.  Not to miss: The art gallery onsite.

1919 at Condado Vanderbilt: Looking for a decadent dining space?  1919 is the perfect backdrop for a special occasion with its sexy dining room with rows of glimmering crystals on its flat chandeliers.  Some of the highlights of the refined menu of Chef Jose Cuevas include local seared duck and a rich chocolate cake for dessert.

Soleil Beach Club: Back in 2008 I had my 30^th birthday party at this institution in the Piñones neighborhood of San Juan.  Everything was perfect: the flawless lechon with its crispy skin, the morcillas (blood sausage), and arroz con gandules.  I was surprised and happy to see that Chef Juan Carlos still keeps this delicious menu alive (and consistent) eight years later as I recently attended a wedding at this restaurant. Dining Traveler tip: head there midday for great views of the beach.

Budatai:  Some of my favorite cuisines: Thai, Japanese, and Puerto Rican come together at this local favorite in the Condado neighborhood of San Juan.  This is a favorite of one of my friends who lives nearby.  Their menu is a creative variation of the traditional Puerto Rican restaurants you may encounter when looking for places to eat in San Juan.  From their sushi selection to their pork guisado dumplings, the menu caters to every palate.

Kasalta: There’s a place that I never miss on my trips to Puerto Rico. The name is Kasalta.  Sometimes I literally land, pick up my rental, and end up at this place as my first stop.  This panaderia (bakery) is an institution at the Ocean Park neighborhood of San Juan.  Even President Obama has eaten here!  My favorite item is the medianoche (midnight) sandwich. It’s a grilled soft baguette with fresh roasted pork, ham, swiss cheese, mustard, and pickles. Just magical.  I always end my lunch with a cortado coffee with a quesito (puff pastry filled with cream cheese).

Asere:  Another favorite among friends, Asere brings the flavors of Cuba to Puerto Rico at La Placita de Santurce.  New to the San Juan restaurant scene, it has quickly built a following.  Chef Marino has included recipes from his grandmother to the menu to include grilled octopus, Cuban sandwich, and cod fillet with tomatoes and melon.  Dining Traveler Tip:  have a drink at their lounge and take in their gorgeous Spanish design.

Niche Bistro:  This tiny restaurant tucked away at Acacia Boutique Hotel, in my opinion one of the best kept secrets in San Juan.  French Chef David Chaymol has created a “Francorican” menu merging French classics with Puerto Rican ingredients.  I still think about the duck confit plantain pastelon I had, it was one of the best dishes I’ve had on the island.  Save room for dessert: the soufflé made with Mallorca bread and a berry sauce is not to be missed.

There are so many places to eat in San Juan that the list can go on and on.  It has been interesting to see the evolution of Puerto Rican gastronomy throughout the years.  From unlikely cultural combinations, to the classics, there is no shortage of where to dine in the capital of Puerto Rico.

What are your favorite places to eat in San Juan? Share in the comments!

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The Scene:  Many people think of Condado as just the strip of large hotels but the hotel is on the area towards Ocean Park (one of my favorite beaches in San Juan).  The property is surrounded by hi-rise apartment buildings where mostly locals live (my friend actually grew up on the building next door).  The beach is just steps from the hotel.  One con is that the hotel does not supply beach chairs or towel.  However, love that the beach was not crowded and there are no other large hotels nearby.  You get to see locals kitesurfing, ladies walking their dogs, and people getting their daily dip in before heading to work. There is parking available but one must call ahead.  I ended up parking in the street with no problems.  Dining Traveler Tip: When staying in smaller hotels, call ahead in regards to the amenities, that way you know if you need to pack beach towels or anything extra for that matter. 

The Room:  I stayed in a queen room with balcony. It was nice to sit in the balcony with the view of the sea and get work done. The room is on the smaller side but comfortable and it had all the amenities I needed.   The room also had a nice view of the small pool of the hotel.  Must admit, I am not a pool person so I didn’t explore the pool. Especially with a vast ocean in front of me.

The Food:  Must say, the highlight of my stay at Acacia Boutique Hotel was the food!  I had work to knock out in the morning and ordered breakfast via room service. I had a delicious acai bowl with ripe local mangoes and granola.  I also had dinner at Niche Bistro, the hotel’s restaurant.  This quaint space is a local favorite as French chef David Chaymol merges French and Puerto Rican flavors. Think duck confit pastelon, a traditional Puerto Rican dish with layers of ripe plantain and filled with succulent duck meat.  He also makes a souffle with mallorcas, a Puerto Rican sweet bread and berry sauce.  The space at Niche is small, dark, and cozy.  What I also noticed is that the hotel is frequented by locals, you hear mostly Spanish in the small space.  On Wednesdays, they offer a free corkage fee for your first bottle of wine.  Dining Traveler Tip:  A great way to save money is by bringing your own wine to a restaurant. Call ahead and look into the corkage fees. 

The Verdict:  If you want a snapshot of local San Juan life, Acacia Boutique Hotel is the place for you. Although the hotel doesn’t offer the amenities that the large hotels of the area do,  you get personalized service and direct access to the beach. Take advantage of the location and walk to Ocean Park Beach or head to one of my favorites, Kasalta Bakery for lunch.  This is a great affordable hotel pick with a lovely local vibe and friendly service.

Disclaimer:  I was graciously hosted by Acacia Boutique Hotel in a collaboration with Poshpacker, an up and coming travel booking site featuring unique and affordable properties throughout the world. 

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The Scene:  A former convent, Villa Herencia is a small eight room property located in Caleta de las Monjas in Old San Juan. If you walk too fast, you may miss the entrance!  The decor is everything I love about Old San Juan hotels: colorful, filled with local art, and the history of the old city etched in its walls.  You stay in Villa Herencia to dive deep into the culture of Old San Juan, get to know the neighbors (had a 30 minute conversation with a neighbor who feeds the feral cats of the street), and discover the little treasures of the old city.  My favorite part of the property was its rooftop patio.  I spent my mornings there working (great internet connection) as I still had to work during my trip.   What I do visualize on a future trip are sunset drinks and appetizers on a trip with the Dutchman.  Dining Traveler Tip: there’s a relatively large supermarket, Super Max, just a five minute walk from the hotel perfect to pick up water, snacks, and of course, wine. 

The Room:  I was welcomed by Jonathan at the front desk of Villa Herencia who gave me a quick run down of the hotel, showed me to my room, and shared some details about the local neighborhood.  My room was on the first floor of the hotel. It was a little on the smaller size but very comfortable.  The room has a plush bed, nice shower, and a small desk area. What caught my eye the most was the attention to detail with paintings of local artists and the Moroccan style mirror.  I was so busy working and running around that I only went to my room to sleep.  If you are in Puerto Rico, there is so much to do and see that you should ONLY be in your room to sleep!!!

The Location:  If you love art, food, and nightlife, this is the place for you.  Although you may not have a beach at walking distance, I find Old San Juan brings you closer to Puerto Rican culture more than any other tourist destination in San Juan. Villa Herencia is one of the Old San Juan hotels located in the heart of that culture. There are plenty of locally-owned galleries and restaurants just a short walk away.   In the mornings, I enjoyed going for a run along Paseo de la Princesa, just steps away from the hotel.  Dining Traveler Tip: when in Puerto Rico, rent a car! It gives you much more access to beaches and restaurants favored by locals.  Free street parking is hard to come by at Villa Herencia, but there are several parking garages to choose from close to the hotel.

The service:  I felt like I was staying at the awesome home of a friend.  Although breakfast ended at 9am, I asked the staff if I can have breakfast later and they happily saved me breakfast.  I also was happy to see that Villa Herencia serves local fruits from a farm in Cidra (a town in the center of the island).  I also observed the front desk helping other guests book tours and helping them with travel arrangements. The vibe is very casual and friendly.

The verdict:  If you are looking for a hotel with a huge pool, margaritas by the beach, and a concierge, this is not the place for you.  However, if you want an affordable stay (average $120-160), dive deep into the culture of Old San Juan, and be able to be steps away from great art and food, this is the place for you.  Villa Herencia is now one of my favorite Old San Juan hotels.  The hotel has an authentic, local vibe.

Disclaimer:  I was graciously hosted by Villa Herencia in a collaboration with Poshpacker, a up and coming travel booking site featuring unique and affordable properties throughout the world. 

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