The Scene:  Our two days in Kyoto adventure began as we arrived by Shinkansen (high speed train) from Kobe to Kyoto Station.  The station is large and the scene is sensory overload:  men in suits rushing to their next destination, little kids in their uniforms headed to school, visitors trying to figure out their next stops, and us, Dutchman & I, in the middle of the glass and steel of Kyoto Station trying to figure it all out.

Getting Around:  The staff at our hotel, Sakura Terrace The Gallery gave us the great tip of buying a daily bus pass for 500 yen (little less than $5). You can also purchase the tickets at the train/bus station.  This is not a tourist sightseeing bus; just the normal public transportation bus, which was great to move around past the tourist highlights.  Although Kyoto has a great underground system, we decided to explore the city by bus, as it gives us a better sense of where we are located and we can capture the city scene through the windows.  We also did a few trips by taxi and the prices were average, pretty much what you find in any big city. Example: a taxi from Kyoto Station to Gion district was around $12.  Bonus: most taxis do take credit cards.

The Food:  Where do we start??? Compared to my previous guides and posts of other destinations, I have to admit that there are many places that were so anonymous I can’t remember (or decipher) their names or where they were located.  However, I can remember the magic of walking into anonymous Izakayas (Japanese Gastropubs), trying to decipher menus with Google Translate or blindly trust the chef.  One of the Izakayas we went to was a random choice, close to the hotel, and as we arrived we can tell this is a neighborhood hangout.  What struck me the most was seeing something I’ve rarely seen in Japan: a female chef in the Izakaya.  A young girl jovially working the grill and greeting every customer as they came in.  We ordered small dishes, and one that really clings to my memory is a grilled rice ball with chicken and topped with pickled plums.  The smoky flavor or the crispy exterior or the rice ball still lingers in my memory.  To me, this is the beauty of Japan. It’s not about the flashy restaurants or name dropping chefs, but walking into anonymous establishments and truly experiencing Japanese culture.

At this point of my two days in Kyoto adventure, I had spent six weeks in Asia, mostly in Okinawa and needed a break from Japanese food.  I took that break at La Locanda, the Italian restaurant at The Ritz Carlton Kyoto. There, we tasted simple yet amazing dishes such as a plato primo of spaghetti with tomato sauce, raviolis made in house, and we concluded our meal with a decadent dessert of a deconstructed crumble with mascarpone ice cream.  At the Ritz Carlton, we received a local tip for a restaurant: Torito a local favorite. We headed there the following day… Torito is more of an upscale Izakaya and reservations are recommended. We sat at the bar (my favorite place to sit at an Izakaya) and watched the magic unfold.  There, we indulged in rice bowls topped with grilled chicken, skewers of tender chicken thighs, and plenty of sake that the Dutchman indulged in.  For the lovers of sweets: head to the Isetan at Kyoto Station to their basement.  There I saw some of the most beautiful pastries I’ve ever seen for every taste: beautiful mango tortes, classic chocolates, and plenty of mochi (rice paste) desserts. I was taken by the level of detail in each one of these pastries, truly a work of art.  There are several sit down cafes in the basement if you wish to sit with your sweet fix.

What to See: There are plenty of places to walk off the delicious food in Kyoto.  The city is famous for its shrines and these spaces live up to their reputation.  On top of my list was the Fushimi Inari, famous for its rows of red tori gates that are famously depicted in Memoirs of a Geisha.  Entrance is free but it is extremely crowded.  My advice is to go early in the morning and hike further into the trails to get some great pictures without the crowds.  Another highlight was Kinkakuji, known as the Golden Pavilion.  This park is visually stunning with a gorgeous golden pagoda standing in the middle of a pond.  It makes you feel as if you step back into another era of Japan.  This place is also very crowded with tourists and school groups but it’s so worth it.  We did go to Higashi Shrine within walking distance of Kyoto Station. It was not touristy but rather felt like a place that locals came and did their ritual of Buddhist prayer as we saw several people who looked like they were on their way home and stopped over for a prayer.  It was quiet and remarkably peaceful.  Wandering the streets of Gion, the Geisha district at night was quite a treat.  It was amazing to see the small houses where they live and even catching a glimpse of these mythical women who still conserve the tradition of many centuries ago.  I was so taken by the girl in the kimono walking along the street in her beautiful kimono and headpiece that I did not even take a photo.

One of my favorite experiences during the trip was visiting the Nishiki Market..  When traveling, I always search for food markets.  There’s something about the energy of the vendors, the color of the food, the scents, that draws me in.   It came alive with stalls lined with fresh fish, colorful selection of pickled vegetables, savory fried treats, and green tea everything!  You can easily eat your way around the market with all the delicious offerings.  Still hungry?  There are plenty of restaurants on the second floor of the market although they are labeled quite inconspicuously. We ended up at a restaurant which specialty was eel (this is very common in Japan, most restaurants focus on one core ingredient).  Two things food lovers should not miss in Kyoto: this market and a Japanese supermarket experience, the supermarket at Isetan at Kyoto Station is pretty epic!

Where to Stay:  We stayed at the Sakura Terrace The Gallery, a Japanese owned hotel we booked via Booking.com (tip: while in Asia, also look up Agoda.com, they have some great deals in Asian properties).  It was the perfect hub for our two day in Kyoto trip.  A small boutique hotel, we loved the modern feel, open courtyard, and friendly service.  The rooms were small yet had all the comforts we needed with small luxuries as pajamas, slippers, and an in-house bathhouse. During the early evening, the hotel offers complimentary cocktails during happy hour and the hotel provides guests water and tea at all times at the lobby.

The Verdict:  We could only wish that we could’ve spent more than two days in Kyoto.  There’s so much to see and eat in this beautiful and historic city.  Come with an open mind and palate to truly enjoy the city!

Planning a trip to Japan? Check out my previous post on how to plan an epic trip to Japan!

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Top Okinawa Beaches

Japan has been my home for 2 years now, and these Okinawa beaches simply never get old. The landscape of the islands is mysterious yet peaceful. Pair that with what we call the “Oki blues” (the seemingly endless shades of blue of the Pacific Ocean and East China Sea that surround our dear island home), and you’ve got an epic combo. So grab some snacks from your local konbini, hop into your Honda Mobilio wagon, and get ready for an adventure.

Toyosaki Chura Sun Beach

Watching airplanes take off and land while sunning and swimming on Chura Sun Beach really can’t be beat. Gaze out to the Kerama Islands in the distance and lie beneath the flight approach to Naha International Airport on close to a half-mile of sand. What a cool experience to see the planes so close! A unique feature, for sure.

Chura Sun’s sand is made of crushed coral and can often be rocky especially as you wade into the sea. Dining Traveler Tip: wear water shoes to protect your feet. The water itself is gentle and calm. Who doesn’t love swimming in a giant bath tub?

There are plenty of pavilions for keeping cool in the shade as well as an observation deck for excellent views. If you’re interested in grabbing more than a quick bite, try Resort Cafe Kai, right along the beach. A covered wooden deck provides stellar views while you enjoy a cocktail and maybe a margherita pizza or sashimi tuna bowl. If you’d like to cool off inside, the ambiance is downright swanky…glass chandeliers and modern fixtures. Either way, you can’t go wrong.

Emerald Beach

As you drive north, the crowded city of Naha gives way to sugar cane fields, farmland, and wild jungle. The Motobu Peninsula, roughly 60 miles away, is touted for its mikan (tangerine) trees and the Churaumi Aquarium, one of the largest aquariums in the world, featuring whale sharks and manta rays. It draws millions of visitors each year for good reason.

At the end of the Ocean Expo Park, which houses the aquarium, is Emerald Beach. 3 separate areas for swimming, playing, and viewing are spread out along the shore to provide a little something for everyone.

Probably my favorite part of this beach is its proximity to the tiny fishing village of Bise. Homes are shaded beneath hundreds of Japanese evergreens known as Fukugi trees. It’s a magical spot to take a walk through town and watch the sunset along the water after relaxing on the beach. These little unique details make Okinawa beaches so special.

Tokashiku, Tokashiki-jima

With less than 1,000 inhabitants and only an hour ferry ride from the main island of Okinawa, the breathtaking island of Tokashiki-jima awaits.  Tokashiki is one of 10 islands in the Kerama Island chain. In winter months, humpback whales make their home during migration in the open waters surrounding these islands.

On the western side of the island, there is a protected beach on the shores of the Tokashiku Marine Village.  The accommodations are basic but star of this property is the cove.  Snorkel right off the beach to the vibrant reef, home to colorful fish and even a few sea turtles. The sand is peppered with coral and picture-perfect shells and sea glass. Life is truly simple and sweet here.

Furuzamami Beach, Zamami-jima

Zamami-jima‘s Furuzamami Beach can be described with one word: water. It’s blue. It’s green. It’s turquoise. It’s aqua. It’s stunning.

The beach has chair and umbrella rentals as well as a little beach cafe with tasty Okinawan specialties. This is one of those Okinawa beaches that makes you want to stay all day. (Zamami-jima is also a part of the Kerama Island chain and just a ferry ride away.)

Araha Beach

This is our local neighborhood beach…a quick 5-minute stroll away along the East China Sea.  The water is seriously stunning…clear, warm, and calm, and the netted swimming area, common on Okinawa beaches, keeps out fish and unwanted jellyfish. Lifeguards also keep an eye on swimmers and beach conditions.  Besides the serene water, there is a chance to do so many other things here.  Rent a kayak or take a glass-bottom boat to get a glimpse under the sea.  Go for a thrill ride on a parasail, jetski, or inflatable catamaran pulled by a speed boat. For the kiddies, the play area steps away features a giant pirate ship fashioned after an actual shipwreck that occurred on Okinawa. A lookout tower, zipline, climbing net, and slide are the perfect diversion from the sand and sea (if you really need one!).  There are also basketball courts and volleyball nets.  When you’re hungry, a small snack shack with kara-age (fried chicken), fries, kakigori (shaved ice), curry and other treats (cold Orion beer!) provides a quick refresher. Or if you’re planning in advance, rent a pavilion, gather a bunch of friends, and grill out. Araha Beach has got you covered.

Have you been to Okinawa, Japan? Which is your favorite beach? Share in the comments!

*Most Okinawa beaches provide facilities from April 1 through October 31. This often includes lifeguards, showers and toilets, swimming nets, lockers, and recreation rentals. 

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I moved to Japan 2 years ago and vowed to see it all…and experience the vast culture within the land of zen, beauty, and tradition. With the help of low-cost carriers, it is possible to travel the nearly 2,000 miles from snowy Hokkaido in the north to beautiful sub-tropical Okinawa in the south relatively inexpensively. LCCs in Japan are safe, reliable, and operate fleets of new aircraft.

Guide to Japanese Low Cost Airlines

Jetstar Japan

Jetstar Japan flies to over 11 destinations within Japan using a fleet of 18 A-320s. I have traveled from Okinawa to Tokyo (Narita) as well as Osaka (KIX) on this airline.  Both flights were pleasant and comfortable with leather seats. Many snacks, including shrimp chips and curry buns (almost like a panko donut filled with curry – amazing!), are offered for sale on board, as well as soft drinks, cocktails, Jetstar keychains, and a plush Jetta Red Panda, the mascot.

Service is offered to several smaller airports in Kyushu, such as Oita, Kagoshima, and Kumamoto. Because they are owned by Qantas and Japan Airlines, they also offer international flights partnered with JetStar Group’s subsidiaries to Australia, New Zealand, Vietnam, Singapore, and Hong Kong (most of these international flights will require a stop in Tokyo).

Skymark

Skymark operates an all Boeing 737-800 fleet out of Haneda which is Tokyo’s city airport (Narita is 85 km away; Haneda only 25 km). Of the Japanese LCCs, Skymark has one of the largest fleets at 27 airplanes and has the largest route network.

They are the dominant carrier into Kobe (the world’s best beef!) and fly into other smaller airports including Kagoshima, Nagasaki, and Sendai. Sometimes it’s fun to just pick a cheap flight to a destination you didn’t even know you wanted to go! If you find a good price and have a sense of adventure, why not? The odds are that you’ll experience something fabulous.

A cool feature of booking flights with Skymark is that you can pay in cash or with credit at local konbini (convenience stores) such as Family Mart, 7-Eleven, and Lawson.

Vanilla Air

Vanilla Air is another great travel option. Owned by ANA, flights normally range from JPY 4990 (~$42 USD) to JPY 10,000 (~$83 USD) one way, depending on season and destination. They fly a small fleet of 8 A-320s to major destinations such as Tokyo and Sapporo but also internationally to Hong Kong, Taipei, and even Kaohsiung in southern Taiwan.

On-board they offer a variety of snacks and drinks. One tasty option is the Okinawan specialty, Goya Chanpuru – stir-fry consisting of vegetables with rice and goya (bitter melon). Oishii!

Solaseed

Solaseed flies in and out of Haneda mostly to the Kyushu region at the southern tip of mainland. For tourists classified as “temporary visitors” and non-Japanese passport holder, Solaseed offers a “VISIT JAPAN” fare for JPY 10,500 (~$88 USD) per flight for all routes. Fares and flights are available on a stand-by basis only. While not as convenient, it’s great for anyone who has the time to go wherever, whenever. More details about this fare can be found on Solaseed’s website.

Peach

Based out of Osaka with hubs in Okinawa and Tokyo as well, Peach is my favorite Japanese Low Cost Airline. They have a great schedule and offer 15 destinations on an all A-320 fleet throughout mainland Japan and internationally to South Korea, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. Peach offers discount train tickets available for purchase in-flight for Osaka and Tokyo sightseeing.

My family (husband and 2 girls) has gone to Osaka, Ishigaki (service no longer offered), Fukuoka, and Taipei with Peach. All airfare costs per round-trip have been under $400 total for the four of us. They’re practically giving the tickets away. Peach’s pink, purple, and white color scheme is fun. They have also been known to be super generous and hand out stickers when certain children get rowdy!

Their on-board services are unique too, incorporating seasonal items. For summer, try the Sparkling Peach Rose or cool off with Peach Ice Milk. Cosmetics, fragrances, and Peach-themed accessories round out their offerings.

Most often, LCCs are subsidiaries of major airlines and are therefore able to provide air travel at a discounted price. LCCs may travel out of remote gates which require you to walk outside or take a shuttle to your flight. Also, you’ll likely end up paying for any extras such as checked luggage, snacks, and beverages. Pack light or prepay for luggage as it is much cheaper. Maybe shove a snack and drink in your carry-on before you board from any one of many konbini in the airport. Low fares make up for the lack of “extras” and leg room (if you’re over 6 feet tall like my husband) but absolutely do not compromise safety standards in getting you to your destination.

Whether you want to surf, snorkel, and relax on wild beaches in Okinawa; ski and hike in Sapporo; visit temples and experience old Japan in Kyoto; or hit up nightlife, high-end shopping, and the world’s best restaurants in Tokyo, LCCs have got you covered. Have you tried a Japanese Low Cost Airline? Which one? Tell us about your experience!

*(All Japanese LCCs fly in/out of Okinawa where I am based.)
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