Last summer, my two best friends from college and I decided to have a quick rendezvous in Scandinavia for a week. We spent half the time in Denmark and half the time in Norway. None of us had ever been to these countries before so we did a ton of planning and had a truly epic time! Here I share all the highlights of my three days in Copenhagen so you can plan your own wonderful trip to this Northern European city, which is known for being home to the happiest people on earth.

Priya’s Guide to Three Days in Copenhagen

Where to Stay: Copenhagen is a beautiful, safe, clean city and we were able to find a FANTASTIC Airbnb. Scandinavia can be really expensive so in that respect Airbnb is the way to go. In regards to neighborhoods, our Airbnb was a spacious apartment in “Indre By.” Indre By is in the inner city, which is why we picked an apartment in that neighborhood. It is easy to walk to all of the historical sights, as well as restaurants and bars. Other neighborhoods you could stay in would be Vesterbro and Norrebro, which are two popular hipster areas that border the city center. These areas are less touristy, but a little further from the famous sightseeing spots.
What to do: Honestly, there is no limit of things to do in the city, but with only three days in Copenhagen, we decided on a few walking tours. We did two walking tours, one of the historical center and one that was “off-the-beaten-path.” Each tour was three hours. You can sign up for these walking tours, or just plan it yourself based on my recommendations below!

• Historical Center Walking Tour: This tour highlights all of the historically important places and structures of Copenhagen.
  • Amalienborg Palace: This gorgeous historical structure that is home to the Danish Royal Family was built in the 1700s and consists of four identical palaces. Be sure to go at noon so you can see the changing of the guards.
  • Rosenborg Castle: This Renaissance Castle was built in 1606 by Christian IV. Be sure to tour the inside where you can admire the architecture, artwork, furniture, and crown jewels of this ruler.
  • The Marble Church: Also known as Frederik’s Church, this stunning church with its green dome showcases Danish rococo architecture.
  • Tivoli Gardens: Part amusement park and part gardens, this iconic venue in Copenhagen is a great place to watch an outdoor film, take a stroll, or grab a coffee at a local café.
  • Nyhavn: The harbor in Copenhagen is one of the most beautiful parts of town. What was formerly the most important port of the city is now a trendy hangout spot for locals and tourists. On either side of the canal are beautiful houses, restaurants, cafes, and bars. You can take a canal tour or just stroll along the canal.
  • Stroget: This is the largest shop street in Copenhagen. You can walk around and window shop for hours; there are big-name stores, chains, boutiques, and hipster shops.

• Alternate Copenhagen Walking Tour: Get an in-depth look at life in Copenhagen by taking this tour.
  • Christiania: I had never heard of Christina. I don’t know how this is possible because when we went there I was like this is the craziest place ever! How have I not heard of it! Christiania is a neighborhood in Copenhagen that is free of cars and government intervention. It was founded in the 1970s by local hippies, and currently includes parks, cafes, art galleries and dozens and dozens and dozens of weed shops. Warning: even if you don’t smoke you will get a contact high! This place is wild. Check it out.
  • Vesterbo: A visit to this hipster neighborhood gave us insight into what life is like for residents of Copenhagen. We got to go to a local school, see an apartment building, and check out trendy spots like a new local craft beer brewery.

Where to Eat: The city is full of dynamic dining and imbibing opportunities. Three days in Copenhagen is not enough to eat it all, but here are my picks:

• Paper Island: So you have to take a quick ferry to get to the street food market, but it is a so worth it. This is one of the coolest street food markets I have ever been to. There are food stalls with international fare (Gelato! Mezze! Tacos! Indian! Pancakes!) plus craft beer stalls, frozen cocktails, and coffee. You could and should spend all day here.
• Restaurant Relae: Ok, so everyone knows the #1 restaurant in the world, Noma, is in Copenhagen. Sadly, for most of us Noma is cost-prohibitive. An alternate option is Relae, which was opened by one of Noma’s sous chefs. The cuisine is modern Nordic, like Noma, and the restaurant provides an extraordinary dining experience without breaking your travel budget. Choose from two different tasting menus, wine pairings are optional. It is located in the trendy Norrebro neighborhood.
• Era Ora: This restaurant is the oldest Michelin starred restaurant in Copenhagen. The food is Italian with a modern twist. We sampled purple cauliflower over polenta, gorgeous housemade pasta, a deconstructed eggplant parmigiana, and dessert that looked like artwork. Be sure to enjoy wine from their wine list with your food!
• Balthazar Champagne Bar: Everyone who knows me knows that I love champagne. So of course, I found the best champagne bar in Copenhagen and loved it. This fancy, trendy spot has gorgeous bartenders and a very respectable champagne list. The crowd only gets more fun as the night goes on. It’s a part of the D’Angleterre hotel, one of the most upscale hotels in the city, so if you want to take things a few steps up from an Airbnb, this is where you should stay.

The Verdict: It’s no wonder Danes are so happy. Copenhagen has history, art, culture, food, and warm, friendly people. Trust me, three days in Copenhagen will be unforgettable.

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Interview with Thomas Rathsack:

What was your first trip abroad as an adult? What were your impressions?

In 1986 I went to California with a couple of friends. I was 19 years old and it was my first trip overseas.  We arrived in San Francisco, rented a car,  and drove down Highway 1 along the sea towards Los Angeles.  On our way, we stayed for a few days in Monterrey and Santa Barbara.  I loved it.  Used to the windy, grey and cold Scandinavian climate this was a completely different experience.  The majestic beauty of the Pacific was absolutely amazing.  Los Angeles was overwhelming for me. Coming from a tiny nation with only 5.5 million people, this city seemed enormous.  Everything was so big: the cars, the buildings, the steaks, even many of the people.  What also struck me was the huge gap in the city’s atmosphere.  Some neighborhoods had a rather somber atmosphere with people sleeping in the streets and searching for food. In others – since it was the 80’s – I saw so a lot of red Porches, funny hairstyles and harsh make-up.

 2. Which destination abroad has given you a completely different perspective on travel?

It must be Afghanistan. For eight months in 2001 I was a program manager for a Danish demining NGO.  My job was to clear Russian mine fields around Kabul as well as clearing unexploded ordnance in various provinces.  This was during the Taliban regime and to some extent I had to cooperate with the locals. I have never experienced – and probably never will – this extreme degree of intolerance and  poverty in both an intellectual and material level.  Women were beaten on the streets, people executed on the national stadium for minor offences, music and kite running were banned and people were litteraly eating from the gutter. This period really opened my eyes to how the world also was – and some places unfortunately is. (P.S. still, in this rough country I also found the lovee of my life – my dog, Selma.

3.  Which destination has been your most interesting to explore on business? Why?

If soldiering is considered business it was Iraq. For more than a year (2004-05) I served as a bodyguard in Baghdad when the city was most affected by the war.  The entire city was a regular warzone and I have never experienced human nature in such perverse and macabre manner.  At the same time, I experienced an extreme degree of loyalty, courage and affection from my comrades.  This contrast made the whole experience rather bizarre but at the same time, it’s a period of my life that I miss.

4.  Same as Question 3 but for leisure travel.

For two years, I traveled as a freelance photographer in South America. Most of the time I stayed in Santiago, Chile but traveled to Argentina, Uruguay and Bolivia as well.  The laid-back mentality of the continent was challenging business-wise, due to my Danish mentality.   However, in terms of fun, good food and wine, breathtaking nature, and beaches I couldn’t have wished for more.  Most of al,l I remember condors circling over the Andes, luxurious wine valleys, the mighty Pacific, and the friendly people.  I love South America and wouldn’t mind to spend my last years there by the sea.

 5.  You’re from Copenhagen. What are your top food/experience recommendations?

I am a sucker for good food.  If you go to Copenhagen I would recommend a couple of restaurants.  First,  ‘Oysters & Grill’  here it’s ok to spill your drink and make a little mess on the waxed tablecloths as they write on their website. The place is very laid back but most importantly, the food is great. Then I would recommend ‘Kiin Kiin’ which is the only Thai restaurant in the Guide Michelin in Denmark. They serve classic Asian recipes combined with modern techniques. Good stuff!

I would like to thank Thomas again  for sharing his travel experiences with The Dining Traveler. Ten years ago, I found his stories fascinating and feel even more so now that he’s sharing them with the world through his writing.  Very proud and humbled to call him a friend.  If you want to learn more about his book and works, check out his website.  All photos on this post courtesy of Thomas Rathsack. 

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