Sintra for the History Buffs

Sintra, a thirty-minute drive or train trip from Portugal’s capital, is a must-see with its idyllic castles and picturesque scenery of forest and sea, started as a refuge for royalty. Sintra has an old town and a new town, and the old town is a UNESCO heritage site. We highly recommend a visit; it is easy to access, utterly charming, and full of history.

What to see in Sintra

Pena Palace: Built in the Middle Ages, this gorgeous castle is colorful and dramatic, located on the top of a hill with spectacular views of lakes, mountains, and forests. Various Portuguese royals used the palace as a summer residence, and the artifacts they left behind are a treat to peruse, as are the palace interior and the surrounding gardens of the castle. The best way to get there is to park in the historic center of Sintra and hike up the Villa Sassetti Trail, but there are also shuttles and drivers to take you to the top. The trail takes you through the Loureiros Forest, which is lush and worth a visit on its own if you’re more of a nature lover. Inside tip: Note that parking is limited, and you must arrive early to avoid lines! If you’re looking for days trips from Lisbon, a visit to Pena Palace is a must.

Castelo dos Mouros: Built between the 8th and 9th centuries, this Moorish Castle’s walls are still standing today. You can walk along them and take gorgeous pictures of the view.

Quinta da Regaleira: This 20th-century mansion is known for its neo-gothic architecture, gardens, and grotto. Its romantic and mysterious atmosphere begs for exploration.

Where to Eat in Sintra

Take a break from all your sightseeing to grab a bite at a small cafe in the historical center of Sintra. You really can’t go wrong, but don’t forget to try a ‘pasteis de nata.’ Portugal’s egg custard pasty is famous for a reason!

Medival Sights at Óbidos

About an hour’s drive from Lisbon, slightly farther north than Sintra, lies the medieval walled town of Obidos. The town was originally gifted to Queen Isabel of Portugal in 1282. This is a must for those looking for scenic day trips from Lisbon. Built on a hill, it is truly a delight to wander through the winding cobblestone streets within the walled city. Admire the traditional homes, visit the picturesque church, the Igreja de Santa Maria, sample local goods at the small shops like the local cherry liquor called ‘Ginjinha,’ and marvel at the Castelo de Óbidos.

Estoril and Cascais for the Beach Bums

These two glorious beach towns exist in a part of Portugal known as the Portuguese Riviera. Located just a thirty-minute drive or train trip from Lisbon, they offer the perfect opportunity to visit Portugal’s stunning beaches. The convenience can’t be beat. Hop on a train to spend the day in Cascais or Estoril, then return to your base in Lisbon without ever having to pack or change hotels.

What to See

Start off by arriving in Cascais and walk along the town streets. Delight in the unique architecture of Cascais and its homes. Then, choose from one of the many Cascais beaches. You can rent a few beach chairs and towels at the beach. Be sure to do so with Aperol spritz in your hand and take in the view! The water is clear, the sand is perfectly soft, and the vibe is one of relaxation and indulgence. When the sun starts going down, walk along the boardwalk that connects Cascais and Estoril. You will marvel at the beachfront properties in this resort town and should test your luck at Estoril’s famous casino.

Take in the Surf at Nazare

Two hours north of Lisbon is a former fishing town called Nazare. Small and sweet, this town has gorgeous beaches and is one of Europe’s most famous surfing spots. The North Beach is world-renowned for its stunning waves, which are supposed to be the largest on the planet that can actually be surfed. In fact, one can spend a whole day here just watching the surfers.

FOR FOODIES :
After your exciting day trips, return to Lisbon to dine at one of these spectacular destinations:

Arkhe: The small, charming dining room at Arkhe is as delightful as the food and service. The incredibly creative and seasonal menu offers dishes like a kimchi cannelloni served with a mushroom terrine and drizzled with a duo of carrot sauces: one with cream and turmeric and the other with orange. Beautifully presented, each dish has sublime textures and flavors.

Encanto: For the most divine vegetarian dining experience, visit Encanto. The restaurant is cozy and warm, and the plant-based cuisine is just irresistible. We relished the mushroom rice with a mushroom “scallop,” inhaled the hummus with dried flowers, marveled at the vegetable stew, and nearly cried over the summer tomatoes. This was our best dining experience in Portugal.

Afterwards, head to Lisbon’s famous pink street for a post-dinner drink (or drinks). All the bars that line Calle Rosa de Lisboa are full of fun and energy.

The Verdict

Make sure to add some day trips from Lisbon to your Portugal adventure! There is something for everyone to enjoy and indulge in, whether you’re an amateur archeologist or a professional beach bum. Be sure to give yourself enough time to soak it all in!

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Ilili DC

With its colorful interior, spacious windows, gorgeous hanging plants, and dangling gold light fixtures, Ilili is quite the place to dine. Lately, Ilili has started lunch services, which include a variety of unique dishes. You can design your meal as you fit. Maybe a series of mezza with hummus, labneh, or olives is all you need; maybe you prefer a salad, or maybe your appetite is calling for a full entrée. Whatever you choose, there are several standout dishes to keep in mind.

First, the hummus, made inhouse, which is so silky smooth it is practically buttery. You may choose to order your hummus with a topping; for something spicy, try the jalapenos; for a bit of crunch, add a sprinkling of the rich pine nuts, and if you are craving a meaty element, go with the umami sauteed wild mushrooms. Baba ghanoush is also a treat, super smoky and earthy, and the tabbouleh is bright, fresh, and tart. Perhaps best of all is the fatayer, with heaps of melted cheese, a doughy crust, and a drizzle of fragrant lavender honey. The fattoush salad is sunny and light, and the falafel is made with chickpeas and fava beans for an extra nutty kick.

If your lunch can include a cocktail, sample the thyme after thyme, which is light but brimming with earthy and bitter notes. The baklava, made with walnuts and pistachios, is flaky and sweet and begs to be eaten alongside a cup of Turkish coffee. You can make your lunch at Ilili quick one, but the ambiance and cuisine beckon you to dine, indulge, imbibe, and luxuriate in the gorgeous setting with impeccable fare.

Cranes

The fusion fare at Cranes is one of the best in the DMV, and now you can try Chef Pep Moncayo’s dishes at lunchtime. Delicate dumplings, where mashed edamame is enrobed in dumpling wrappers, steamed, and then doused with a buttery sauce with a sprinkling of spring peas, are sublime, as are the meaty mushroom gyoza. The red miso ramen is the star of the menu, with springy noodles, cubes of tofu in a sweet glazed miso sauce, a bold, savory tomato and miso broth, and lots of earthy veggies like grilled bok choy. For those who can’t decide, choose the bento box menu with several options from the menu. Close your meal with the yuzu cheesecake: it is undoubtedly the creamiest cheesecake you will ever have the pleasure of eating, and the contrast of the tart, acidic yuzu, and calamansi to the luscious cheese is sublime.

Seven Reasons

There are many updates related to Seven Reasons, including a new space down in CityCenterDC and a spectacular new brunch menu. From the finger-linking melted cheese tequeños, served with dollops of guava jam, to the irresistible avocado dip, served with egg yolk, to the crunchy waffles to the traditional Venezuelan breakfast with eggs, black beans, arepas, and fried cheese, this brunch has something for everyone. Vegans will appreciate the impossible burger, and those with a sweet tooth will not want to pass up the tres leches or mango flan. The brunch cocktails include pina coladas, espresso martinis, bloody marys, and tropical aperol spritzs. The brunch is a delight!

The Verdict

Visit all of these spots!

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José Ignacio

Where to Stay: Punta del Este is one of South America’s most famous beaches. Brazilians and Argentines flock to Punte del Este for glorious, upscale beachside relaxation, glamour, and fun. We decided to stay in a smaller town adjacent to Punta del Este, José Ignacio, Uruguay which is quieter and cozier.

Playa Vik José Ignacio: The hotel we chose was the absolutely stunning Playa Vik hotel, owned by the well-known Vik family, who owns three hotels in the José Ignacio area, Playa Vik, Bahia Vik, and Estancia Vik. Playa Vik is located on the beach and offers absolutely stunning ocean views. Bahia Vik is also beachside, but try Estancia Vik, situated in the countryside, for something a little more rustic. To get to Playa Vik from Montevideo, you can hire a driver or take a local bus from the Tres Cruces bus station in Montevideo, which will drop you off at a small bus stop in José Ignacio. The bus stop is within walking distance of both Playa Vik and Bahia Vik.

What to Do:

Pool: At least one day must be devoted to lounging by Playa Vik’s epic infinity pool. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, it is the ultimate location for tranquility and luxury. Enjoy poolside cocktails and snacks while you relax and take in the views.

Beach: A stroll by the water and swimming in the ocean is an absolute must!

Spa: Although Playa Vik doesn’t have a spa, Bahia Vik is just steps away and has a full spa with great massages, a tranquility area, and yoga classes.

Wine Tasting: Playa Vik offers a curated wine tasting experience through The Wine Experience, where you can sample Uruguayan wines as well as wines from the Vik family wineries in Chile. A hearty platter of cheeses and bread are included, and the tasting takes place on a patio where you can marvel at the legendary local sunset.

Where to Eat:

Parador La Huella: This restaurant, which has a spot on Pellegrino’s illustrious Latin America 50 best list, is the quintessential beach restaurant I have ever been to. Grab an outdoor table, dig your toes into the sand, and kick off your meal with a craft cocktail. From there, indulge in dishes featuring local goods like a brie, hazelnut, and honey appetizer, delicate ravioli, housemade bread and dips, and fresh gazpacho. La Huella is within walking distance from Playa Vik, which means you can enjoy as many cocktails as you want!

Playa Vik: Playa Vik hosts a gorgeous waterfront restaurant with delicious fare like cheesy baked vegetable lasagna, a burrata and zucchini salad, and desserts like dulce de leche flan.

Estancia Vik: One evening, we reserved a driver from Playa Vik to take us to visit the acclaimed parrillero at Estacia Vik, where the hotel hosted a lavish pizza party with pizzas served straight from the wood-fired oven, free-flowing wine, and live music. We dined at a communal table and stuffed ourselves with a variety of pizza, including a creamy garlic and herb white pizza, pizza topped with locally foraged mushrooms, a bright margherita pizza, and more. We laughed, ate, danced, and drank the evening away – it was, quite honestly, one of the most fun evenings of my life.

Canelones

The charming vineyards of Uruguay are largely located in the Canelones region, which is about 90 minutes north of Montevideo. We booked a trip to Canelones through Wine Explorers Uruguay, who took us to the Pizzorno Vineyard and arranged for our adventure in Canelones.

Pizzorno Vineyard: The Pizzorno vineyard includes an inn, winery, and restaurant. The inn is a small bed and breakfast where you can reserve a cozy room with a patio overlooking the vineyards. Breakfast is included, and you can dine at the winery’s restaurant. We engaged in a lengthy winery tour where we learned about the local Uruguayan grape, tannat, and then sampled a series of wines with a multi-course lunch. From canapes to salads to the most luscious and flavorful vegetable risotto to a sweet strawberry dessert, it was an incredibly decadent meal.

The Verdict

Uruguay has much to offer beyond Montevideo! Be sure to include time in your trip to visit Uruguay’s beaches and wineries.

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Where to Stay in Montevideo

We spent a total of three nights on our weekend trip to Montevideo. We stayed in the tiny, quaint Hotel Palacio, which met all of our needs: close to different local sites and cafes, comfortable, and affordable. The hotel is located in the Cuidad Vieja, which is the old part of town where you can find most of the historical sites. It is within walking distance of the Cordón and Palermo neighborhoods, where you can find many of the best bars and restaurants in Montevideo!

What to do

Curioso City Walking Tour: We loved this walk through the Cuidad Vieja, where we learned all about Uruguay’s history. We visited Independence Square, stopped at the famous Puerto Mercado, took pictures at the Cuidadela Gate, and went into the Artigas Mausoleum. Our guide was very knowledgeable about the city and gave us detailed insight into the culture, politics, and history of Uruguay at large.

A Stroll Along La Rambla: La Rambla is one of the longest sidewalks in the world, and it happens to be along Montevideo’s beautiful waterfront. During a walk along La Rambla, you will see surfers, swimmers, sunbathers, volleyball players, musicians, beachside cafes, and more. Because we visited Uruguay in December, during its summer, the beach was packed with locals enjoying the warm weather. The walkway links Cuidad Vieja with Carrasco, although we didn’t walk quite that far. We strolled for several miles and then jumped off for a cocktail in Cordón. I highly recommend spending an afternoon wandering down La Rambla during your weekend in Montevideo. It’s a great way to enjoy the local life!

Where to Eat and Drink

Our weekend in Montevideo was not without several delicious culinary experiences. We tried to visit spots in the ciudad vieja and different neighborhoods such as Cordón and Carrasco.

Escaramuza Café: We loved this gorgeous café in Cordon so much that we went back twice. You enter first into a charming bookstore, where the bookshelves are filled with books all the way to the ceiling, and then walk straight back into a plant and light-filled patio, where guests lounge for hours over coffee and the most delicious pastries, including an absolutely divine dulce de leche lava cake. From scones to brownies to tortas to tartas this spot is a dessert lovers’ paradise and a dreamy location for whiling away an afternoon during your weekend in Montevideo.

Federacion: Check out this sidewalk café and treat yourself to hot chocolate and a buttery croissant.

Cafe Brasilero: Small but historically significant as the oldest cafe in Montevideo, a stop at this cafe is an absolute must during a weekend in Montevideo. Located in Cuidad Vieja, we found the cafe to be relaxing and cozy, with great cappuccinos!

Café La Farmacia: This is a great breakfast spot in Ciudad Vieja, with a charming old-world ambiance, warm lattes, and simple breakfast dishes like avocado toast and cheese empanadas.

Dueto Cocina Urbana: Like Argentina, Uruguay serves up plenty of delicious Italian fare, thanks to the influence of Italian immigrants. Dueto is a charming and elegant venue with simple Italian fare, including pastas, freshly made bread, salads, and desserts. Helpful tip: This restaurant is right next door to Hotel Palacio in the Cuidad Vieja!

Manzanar: For a super trendy dining experience during your weekend in Montevideo, try Manzanar. Tasty cocktails combined with a hip décor and menu eclectic menu featuring everything from pizza to sushi, we ate, drank and people watched for hours. Manzanar is located in Carrasco, a neighborhood that is a on the other side of town from the old city, but is a modern, high-end part of town where some of the more upscale dining venues are located.

Namaste: It’s always interesting to see how other countries interpret the cuisine of other cultures. We visited this unique spot for lunch and indulged in a fusion fare that included wok-fried noodles, curry-infused risotto, and vegetarian chivitos, which are traditional Uruguayan sandwiches.

Baker’s Bar, KFE, and Office Bar: Fun and filled with locals. Stop by any of these spots for a quick drink on your way to dinner or after dinner!

The Verdict

A weekend in Montevideo is fun, interesting, and relaxing. From the historical sites to the bevy of cafes to the lovely beachfront La Rambla to the variety of dining options, we had a blast and highly recommend this city for visiting!

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Where to Stay

The Crawford Hotel: We were madly in love with our hotel, located in lower downtown Denver. The lobby is designed like a train station terminal, but a super fancy one. The “terminal” includes an ice cream shop, a bar, shops, and a coffee shop. Guests at the hotel get a coupon book which includes free coffee, beer, and ice cream at the shops in the lobby, as well as discounts at local bars and restaurants. Sound amazing? It gets even better! The rooms are gorgeous, with a high ceiling and pristine glass-enclosed showers, and guests can reserve a complimentary tesla, complete with a driver, to visit local spots. The location and amenities served as the perfect backdrop for our weekend in Denver.

Where to Eat and Drink

Cholon: Dynamite South Asian fare is featured at this chic downtown venue. Don’t miss the scallion pancakes, the crystal dumplings, or the fried rice. The three of us ordered a handful of appetizers and entrees to share and it was the best way to sample a bunch of items. Be sure to compliment your meal with a cocktail!

Kachina Cantina: As you can probably tell, Denver offers a variety of cuisines. This Mexican spot is cute and charming, with a colorful décor and wall murals. The restaurant serves brunch, lunch, and dinner; we went for Sunday brunch and had a fantastic meal. There are many delicious options, from chilaquiles to cauliflower tacos to warm vegetarian pozole. A mimosa is definitely a good idea, or a bloody mary if you prefer!

The Bindery: Located in the trendy Lohi neighborhood of Denver, The Bindery serves up fresh Italian fare like burrata including seasonal vegetables, beet ravioli, oysters, and risotto. The restaurant is contemporary and sleek, and it provides a gorgeous spot for a luxurious meal.

Lady Jane: For bold, bright, delicious cocktails in a stylish bar, visit Lady Jane. It’s a great place for drinks with friends, with the added bonus of plenty of eye candy for people watching!

Pigtrain Coffee Co.: Hot coffee and breakfast pastries are available all day at this coffee shop in the lobby of the Crawford hotel.

The Terminal Bar: The Crawford Hotel’s bar serves up 20 local craft beers, and features plenty of seating where you can sip your beer while watching the bustling activity of the hotel. I highly recommend the tater tots or pretzel bites as a bar snack to accompany your beer!

What to Do

Visit the 16th Street Mall: Don’t panic, this is no ordinary mall. Denver’s 16th Street Mall is a mile-long promenade with shops, cafes, and restaurants. Free shuttles go up and down the promenade, but we preferred to just stroll along so that we could peruse the shops and stop for coffee.

Visit the Denver Milk Market: Located on the Milk Block, where the original Windsor Dairy Farm of Colorado was once situated, the Denver Milk Market is a super fun food hall with a cocktail bar, a pizzeria, an ice cream vendor, and more. This was one of our favorite spots to visit in Denver, it’s definitely an iconic local venue.

Visit the Union Station Farmer’s Market: Filled with vendors selling freshly squeezed juices, croissants, live music, and artisanal goods, this is a lovely local market to visit. We had a great morning appreciating the goods of the different stalls, stuffing our faces, and absorbing the scene.

Weekend in Denver: The Verdict

Rocky Mountain National Park is an epic, iconic place to visit in Colorado but don’t pass up the opportunity to have a whirlwind weekend in Denver where there is food and drinks galore.

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Chef Dylan’s Peking Turkey:

Ingredients:

1 turkey

Five-spice cure:

3 cups salt

½ cup sugar

1 tbsp five spice powder

8 pieces bay leaf

60g ginger

60g green onion, sliced on a bias

60g garlic, roughly chopped

3 cups white vinegar

6 tbsp honey

Directions:

1. Wash the turkey inside and out then pat dry with paper towel. Place turkey on a rack in a roasting pan.
2. Heat the red vinegar and honey in a saucepan until honey is dissolved.
3. Using a ladle, baste the turkey with the hot vinegar and honey mixture until it is all gone. The vinegar will collect in the roasting pan. Pour it back into the pot, bring up to temperature and repeat the process, rotating the turkey so it’s basted all over.
4. Discard the vinegar
5. Season the inside of the turkey with 6 tablespoons of the five-spice cure.
6. Place the rest of the ingredients in the cavity as well and truss it closed.
7. Tie some twine around the neck and hang in front of an electric fan for 4-5 hours in in the fridge uncovered overnight to dry the skin.
8. Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.
9. Place turkey back on the rack and put some water in the roasting pan.
10. Roast in the oven for 30 minutes then reduce heat to 300F and cook according to the directions in the table below.
11. The turkey is done when the internal temperature of the meat on the thigh reaches 165 degrees Fahrenheit and the skin is golden brown and crispy.
12. Remove from oven and allow to rest for 20-30 minutes before carving. Serve with momo (thin pancakes), sticks of cucumber and leek, hoisin sauce and sweet pickled vegetables.

Cooking duration by turkey size:

8-10 lbs:  3 ¼ to 3 ½ hours

10-12 lbs:   3 ½ to 3 ¾ hours

12-16 lbs:  3 ¾ to 4 hours

Big thanks to Chef Dylan for sharing his Asian inspired turkey recipe with us!  Hopefully one day soon we will go down to the Cayman Islands and discover it for ourselves.  Want to know more about the chef?  He documents his travels in recipes, stories and photos to showcase incredible food and the adventures undergone to find them.  Follow Chef Dylan on Instagram @dylanmbenoit for up to date food & travel photos from Cayman and abroad. www.dylanbenoit.com

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Location:  One of the things that makes Shake Shack Union Station unique is that it is one of the few locations that offers breakfast.  When the powers to be decided to open up shop at Union Station they wanted to cater to the traveling crowd.  That being said, it opens at 7am and it offers breakfast until 10:30am.  No more hangry train/bus trips to New York City!  Just as any Shake Shack it is always packed!  Don’t let the long line scare you!  It moves pretty fast!

Food:  Although I’ve eaten plenty of times at Shake Shack, it was my first time trying the breakfast menu. I had the sausage egg, and cheese sandwich.  They use the same buns as the burgers, sausage is juicy, and the cheese is perfectly melted. Delicious.  The restaurant serves hot coffee but also serves Stumptown Cold Brew.  This cute little carton reminiscent of a chocolate milk carton but it is a delicious cafe au lait. A must try…

The verdict: I know I am preaching to the choir here… but if you haven’t tried breakfast at Shake Shack Union Station, book that Amtrak or Bolt to NYC as an excuse to indulge.  What is your favorite travel eats place?  I’m excited to see what other goodies I can find in airports, hotels, and train stations around the world!

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Cocktail Hour at the Blue Duck Tavern Bar

It is easy to indulge in one of the many cocktails such as the “West Side Royal” with St. George Terroir, cucumber, lime and mint simple syrup. It will make you feel as if summer is still here with its citrusy crisp flavor.  If you are into a deeper, fall taste, reach out for the “The Best of Everything” with Laphroaig, Hennessy VS, and Bual Madeira Lemon Bitters.  This is not a place to go for a quick cocktail. Everything on the menu is carefully crafted, perfect for sitting back on their leather chairs and catch up with friends or reward yourself after a tough week at work with a solo drink. No, there’s nothing wrong with drinking alone! 

You know a restaurant takes their cheese seriously when it enlists a cheese specialist to its staff.  At the Blue Duck Tavern bar, you can spot Sophie Slesinger, a renowned dairy expert at the lounge among the selection of cheese that she hand picks mostly from the mid-Atlantic.  There is also an exquisite selection of charcuterie and breads.  She not only curates the cheese, but also makes butter and buttermilk in-house for the dining menu. When one sees cheese, the automatic reaction is to think wine, but the cheese plate paired very well with the cocktails as well.

The last few months have been a blur with travel, a new home, and getting into the swing of my new schedule. However, it is key to find time to unwind, whether it is alone or to catch up with a friend. The space at the Blue Duck Tavern bar provides just that.  I find inspiration both in the crowded room or when the silent lounge.  Are you a fan of hotel bars? Which one is your favorite?  Dining Traveler Tip: Check out my previous post about the Blue Duck Tavern Fall Menu. 

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