José Ignacio

Where to Stay: Punta del Este is one of South America’s most famous beaches. Brazilians and Argentines flock to Punte del Este for glorious, upscale beachside relaxation, glamour, and fun. We decided to stay in a smaller town adjacent to Punta del Este, José Ignacio, Uruguay which is quieter and cozier.

Playa Vik José Ignacio: The hotel we chose was the absolutely stunning Playa Vik hotel, owned by the well-known Vik family, who owns three hotels in the José Ignacio area, Playa Vik, Bahia Vik, and Estancia Vik. Playa Vik is located on the beach and offers absolutely stunning ocean views. Bahia Vik is also beachside, but try Estancia Vik, situated in the countryside, for something a little more rustic. To get to Playa Vik from Montevideo, you can hire a driver or take a local bus from the Tres Cruces bus station in Montevideo, which will drop you off at a small bus stop in José Ignacio. The bus stop is within walking distance of both Playa Vik and Bahia Vik.

What to Do:

Pool: At least one day must be devoted to lounging by Playa Vik’s epic infinity pool. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, it is the ultimate location for tranquility and luxury. Enjoy poolside cocktails and snacks while you relax and take in the views.

Beach: A stroll by the water and swimming in the ocean is an absolute must!

Spa: Although Playa Vik doesn’t have a spa, Bahia Vik is just steps away and has a full spa with great massages, a tranquility area, and yoga classes.

Wine Tasting: Playa Vik offers a curated wine tasting experience through The Wine Experience, where you can sample Uruguayan wines as well as wines from the Vik family wineries in Chile. A hearty platter of cheeses and bread are included, and the tasting takes place on a patio where you can marvel at the legendary local sunset.

Where to Eat:

Parador La Huella: This restaurant, which has a spot on Pellegrino’s illustrious Latin America 50 best list, is the quintessential beach restaurant I have ever been to. Grab an outdoor table, dig your toes into the sand, and kick off your meal with a craft cocktail. From there, indulge in dishes featuring local goods like a brie, hazelnut, and honey appetizer, delicate ravioli, housemade bread and dips, and fresh gazpacho. La Huella is within walking distance from Playa Vik, which means you can enjoy as many cocktails as you want!

Playa Vik: Playa Vik hosts a gorgeous waterfront restaurant with delicious fare like cheesy baked vegetable lasagna, a burrata and zucchini salad, and desserts like dulce de leche flan.

Estancia Vik: One evening, we reserved a driver from Playa Vik to take us to visit the acclaimed parrillero at Estacia Vik, where the hotel hosted a lavish pizza party with pizzas served straight from the wood-fired oven, free-flowing wine, and live music. We dined at a communal table and stuffed ourselves with a variety of pizza, including a creamy garlic and herb white pizza, pizza topped with locally foraged mushrooms, a bright margherita pizza, and more. We laughed, ate, danced, and drank the evening away – it was, quite honestly, one of the most fun evenings of my life.

Canelones

The charming vineyards of Uruguay are largely located in the Canelones region, which is about 90 minutes north of Montevideo. We booked a trip to Canelones through Wine Explorers Uruguay, who took us to the Pizzorno Vineyard and arranged for our adventure in Canelones.

Pizzorno Vineyard: The Pizzorno vineyard includes an inn, winery, and restaurant. The inn is a small bed and breakfast where you can reserve a cozy room with a patio overlooking the vineyards. Breakfast is included, and you can dine at the winery’s restaurant. We engaged in a lengthy winery tour where we learned about the local Uruguayan grape, tannat, and then sampled a series of wines with a multi-course lunch. From canapes to salads to the most luscious and flavorful vegetable risotto to a sweet strawberry dessert, it was an incredibly decadent meal.

The Verdict

Uruguay has much to offer beyond Montevideo! Be sure to include time in your trip to visit Uruguay’s beaches and wineries.

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Where to Stay in Montevideo

We spent a total of three nights on our weekend trip to Montevideo. We stayed in the tiny, quaint Hotel Palacio, which met all of our needs: close to different local sites and cafes, comfortable, and affordable. The hotel is located in the Cuidad Vieja, which is the old part of town where you can find most of the historical sites. It is within walking distance of the Cordón and Palermo neighborhoods, where you can find many of the best bars and restaurants in Montevideo!

What to do

Curioso City Walking Tour: We loved this walk through the Cuidad Vieja, where we learned all about Uruguay’s history. We visited Independence Square, stopped at the famous Puerto Mercado, took pictures at the Cuidadela Gate, and went into the Artigas Mausoleum. Our guide was very knowledgeable about the city and gave us detailed insight into the culture, politics, and history of Uruguay at large.

A Stroll Along La Rambla: La Rambla is one of the longest sidewalks in the world, and it happens to be along Montevideo’s beautiful waterfront. During a walk along La Rambla, you will see surfers, swimmers, sunbathers, volleyball players, musicians, beachside cafes, and more. Because we visited Uruguay in December, during its summer, the beach was packed with locals enjoying the warm weather. The walkway links Cuidad Vieja with Carrasco, although we didn’t walk quite that far. We strolled for several miles and then jumped off for a cocktail in Cordón. I highly recommend spending an afternoon wandering down La Rambla during your weekend in Montevideo. It’s a great way to enjoy the local life!

Where to Eat and Drink

Our weekend in Montevideo was not without several delicious culinary experiences. We tried to visit spots in the ciudad vieja and different neighborhoods such as Cordón and Carrasco.

Escaramuza Café: We loved this gorgeous café in Cordon so much that we went back twice. You enter first into a charming bookstore, where the bookshelves are filled with books all the way to the ceiling, and then walk straight back into a plant and light-filled patio, where guests lounge for hours over coffee and the most delicious pastries, including an absolutely divine dulce de leche lava cake. From scones to brownies to tortas to tartas this spot is a dessert lovers’ paradise and a dreamy location for whiling away an afternoon during your weekend in Montevideo.

Federacion: Check out this sidewalk café and treat yourself to hot chocolate and a buttery croissant.

Cafe Brasilero: Small but historically significant as the oldest cafe in Montevideo, a stop at this cafe is an absolute must during a weekend in Montevideo. Located in Cuidad Vieja, we found the cafe to be relaxing and cozy, with great cappuccinos!

Café La Farmacia: This is a great breakfast spot in Ciudad Vieja, with a charming old-world ambiance, warm lattes, and simple breakfast dishes like avocado toast and cheese empanadas.

Dueto Cocina Urbana: Like Argentina, Uruguay serves up plenty of delicious Italian fare, thanks to the influence of Italian immigrants. Dueto is a charming and elegant venue with simple Italian fare, including pastas, freshly made bread, salads, and desserts. Helpful tip: This restaurant is right next door to Hotel Palacio in the Cuidad Vieja!

Manzanar: For a super trendy dining experience during your weekend in Montevideo, try Manzanar. Tasty cocktails combined with a hip décor and menu eclectic menu featuring everything from pizza to sushi, we ate, drank and people watched for hours. Manzanar is located in Carrasco, a neighborhood that is a on the other side of town from the old city, but is a modern, high-end part of town where some of the more upscale dining venues are located.

Namaste: It’s always interesting to see how other countries interpret the cuisine of other cultures. We visited this unique spot for lunch and indulged in a fusion fare that included wok-fried noodles, curry-infused risotto, and vegetarian chivitos, which are traditional Uruguayan sandwiches.

Baker’s Bar, KFE, and Office Bar: Fun and filled with locals. Stop by any of these spots for a quick drink on your way to dinner or after dinner!

The Verdict

A weekend in Montevideo is fun, interesting, and relaxing. From the historical sites to the bevy of cafes to the lovely beachfront La Rambla to the variety of dining options, we had a blast and highly recommend this city for visiting!

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Getting To Vieques

There are two main ways to get to Vieques: by plane or ferry. If you’re only going to spend two days in Vieques, I highly recommend you book a plane ticket. There are several carriers such as Vieques Air Link and Culebra Air, and you can fly from San Juan or Ceiba. The last two times I’ve been to Vieques, I’ve flown from Ceiba. The parking lot at Ceiba is extremely affordable at $8 a day, and the roundtrip ticket is only $80 compared to $150 from San Juan. This can be a great option is you’re traveling beyond San Juan.

Dining Traveler Tip: If traveling by plane, make sure to pack light! You will take a small airplane, and the weight of the aircraft is significant. For example, the weight limit for Vieques Air Link is 30 pounds. I learned this the hard way when I had to pay for extra weight a few years ago!

If you’re looking for a budget travel option, a $2 per adult, the ferry is the most economical choice. Just be prepared to stand in long lines and experience delays. Vieques is a popular destination among locals from the Puerto Rico mainland as well, so I recommend traveling on a weekday when it is less crowded.

Getting Around

Vieques is a relatively small island, but you still need some mode of transportation to get around. If you only have two days in Vieques, I recommend renting a jeep to get around the island. Some of the best beaches, such as Playa La Chiva, are best accessed by jeep. Renting a jeep is not cheap-it ranges from $65-$99 depending on the time of the year. However, I think it is an excellent investment if you truly want to explore the island and see all that it has to offer.

Other affordable choices are renting a golf cart, taxi, or “carro publico” (public transportation). We saw a lot of golf carts around the island, and it seemed like a good way to get around as well. Taxis and carro publicos are less reliable, and you can be at the mercy of the driver to pick you up. I used this method my first time and genuinely regretted not renting a car. The island is small, and most beaches are on google map, so it is pretty easy to drive around.

Where to Stay

Vieques was severely damaged by both Hurricane Irma and Hurricane Maria two years ago. Hotels are slowly reopening with exciting renovations, and there are also new properties sprouting across the island. Here are my picks your two days in Vieques getaway:

Finca Victoria

Finca Victoria is owned by Puerto Rican designer Sylvia DeMarco. This stunning property is for those who want tranquility in a sustainable environment. Nestled in the center of Vieques, Finca Victoria, the property is composed of “casitas,” small houses that house one or two rooms. Guests are treated to a vegan breakfast, morning yoga, and a beautifully curated gift shop with local and unique pieces. Bonus: The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico is sold at Finca Victoria!

El Blok Hotel

If you’re looking for all the traditional hotel amenities, El Blok Hotel is your choice. As the name implies, El Blok is a uniquely designed boutique hotel in Esperanza, where most of the hotels and bars in Vieques are located. With its modern design, ocean views, and hip crowd, El Blok is definitely the spot to be seen. Even if you’re not staying at El Blok, I HIGHLY recommend you dine at the restaurant. Easily one of the best meals we had during our trip.

Flamboyan Guest House

Looking for a cozy inn where you feel like you’re staying with a hip family? Head to Flamboyan Guest House in Esperanza. Located right above the popular Duffy’s restaurant, it is an excellent choice for budget and solo travelers. Owners Alysa and Matty are always around, sharing their tips with guests, and making folks feel at home.

Where to Eat

The small island, big flavors! Although the restaurant selection in Vieques is limited, there are several good restaurants to choose from. From budget to fine dining, there is something for everyone.

El Blok

If you only have two days in Vieques, you have to splurge and dine at El Blok at least once! The cocktails, ambiance, and service are superb. The restaurant has an open kitchen with a flame grill headed by Puerto Rican chef Carlos Perez. We had a delicious octopus for a starter. It was perfectly tender, and its flavor intensified with the smoke. This was followed by a flawless cut of skirt steak topped with savory chimichurri.

Bigotes

When we were producing The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico, we fell in love with El Bucanero, a locally owned restaurant. We were sad to see it gone, but I was consoled by Bigotes, the new restaurant occupying the space. Not only are their pinchos (meat skewers) delicious, they are also extremely affordable. My friend raved about the Arroz mamposteado, Puerto Rican rice with beans and grilled ribs. We had quality, full-service lunch and a soft drink for less than $30 for both of us.

El Rincon Del Sabor

I was so excited to see that there’s a food truck park in Vieques! We had lunch at El Rincon del Sabor, a local food truck that sells traditional Puerto Rican cuisine. I’m still thinking of their trifongo (a mofongo made with plantain, yuca, and taro root) topped with stewed octopus in salsa Criolla. Not only was the dish good but an incredible value at $20. The Vieques Food Truck Park has shaded benches where you can have your meal. We went during the weekday and noticed mostly locals having their lunch.

Buen Provecho

We found Buen Provecho by accident when looking for a breakfast spot. Buen Provecho is not only a deli but also sells hard to find ingredients and wines in Vieques. The back of the shop has a cute bar where you can have food. I loved their avocado toast made with Puerto Rican avocados and topped with locally sourced micro-greens. We took our smoothies made with local mangoes to the beach with us.

Duffy’s

Confession: when I saw Duffy’s Key West vibes, I was a bit hesitant to order Puerto Rican food, but I did for the sake of “research.” Like we say in Puerto Rico, “las apariencias enganan.” (the appearances deceive). Chefs Sarahi Guzman and Julio Munoz bring the Puerto Rican flavors to Duffy’s. I was excited to see Pasteles on the menu, so of course, I had to order them. They were tasty and filled with savory chunks of stewed pork. Wash it down with a carambola (starfruit) margarita.

Beaches in Vieques

I guarantee that you will spend your two days in Vieques (or more) at the beach. The beaches in Vieques are simply idyllic: sandy beaches, crystal clear waters, and stunning sunsets. Here are a few of my favorite beaches:

Playa Caracas

This stunning beach on the southern coast of the island has to be one of the most perfect beaches that I have ever visited. Get there early in the morning, and I guarantee you that you will be one of the few people there! It’s quite easy to get there, there’s parking, and the waters are quite calm.

Sun Bay Beach

Also, on the southern coast, Sun Bay is a “Balneario”, a public beach that has facilities such as parking, bathrooms, and cooking grills. The blue-green water waters are picture-perfect, and the beach is quite shallow, which is excellent for those traveling with kids.

Playa Negra

For those photography enthusiasts, Playa Negra is the beach for you. Playa Negra, as the name implies, is lined with black sand and lively waves. You have to take a 10-minute walk through some thick vegetation to get to the beach, which makes it even more special. Given that the beach is not that accessible, you have a good chance that you will have the beach all to yourself or share it with a few other folks.

Playa La Chiva

Playa La Chiva is located on the southeast coast of Vieques, and it has some of the most spectacular views on the island. The beach is wild, rugged, with choppier waves than its neighboring Sun Bay and Caracas. Get some shade under one of the leafy sea grape trees and take in the views.

Things to Do in Vieques

Aside from eating and basking yourself in the sun, there are some fun things to do during your two days in Vieques. Here are some suggestions:

Bioluminescent Bay Tour

Puerto Rico has three bioluminescent bays, and I am here to tell you that the one in Mosquito Bay in Vieques is the best. Given that the island is not as populated as mainland Puerto Rico, the microorganisms that make the water glow are more abundant as they are less susceptible to contamination. If the Bio Bay is a must for you, make sure you book your trip around the lunar cycle. The bay does not glow as well with a full moon, and some tour companies do not operate during this time. Check out the tours by Bieque Eco Trips.

Horseback Riding

One thing you will notice right away about Vieques is the horses roaming freely around the island. I was under the impression there were wild horses, but most of them have a rightful owner. For the horse lovers, you can book a horseback riding tour with Esperanza Riding Company and go for an unforgettable beachside ride.

Sunset Magic

My friend Chef Brittany introduced me to sunset watching at the northwest coast of Vieques at Mosquito Pier. Bring some beer or wine, sit on the edge of the pier, and take in the magical sunset. Another place to catch a spectacular sunset is at Sun Bay Beach.

Two Days in Vieques

Looking to go off the grid, enjoy tranquil island life, and live your best life by the beach? Vieques is the place for you.

Need more Puerto Rico tips? Check out The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico

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About Candelero Beach

Candelero Beach Resort is locally and family-owned by the Suárez family of Palmas Hills Partners. The hotel sustained substantial damage by hurricane Maria and Irma and was forced to shut its doors. The resort reopened in December of 2018 and has become a pillar of the local Palmas del Mar community.

Location

Located at the upscale development of Palmas del Mar in the town of Humacao, Candelero Beach Resort is around a 90-minute drive from San Juan. The hotel is a beachfront property with access to several pools and a sandy beach. If you are all about exploring beyond the hotel, you’re in luck! Here are several places that you can visit that are less than an hour’s drive: El Yunque Rainforest, scenic route 901 in Yabucoa, the kiosks of Luquillo, and the natural reserve of Humacao.

If spending a relaxing weekend at a hotel is your thing, there’s plenty to do at the property without having to leave Palmas del Mar. Given that it is one of the few all-inclusive properties in Puerto Rico, that means that you can indulge in the many restaurants on property. You can also play a round of golf, take a dip at one of the pools, or go for a walk at the Pterocaprus forest located just 10 minutes from the hotel.

Our Room

My friend and I shared a room with two comfortable queen beds, excellent in-room wi-fi access, and a mini-fridge. The colorful accent wall wallpaper in a tile pattern gave a pop of color to the neutral tones of the decor. The rooms are pretty spacious, which is perfect if you’re traveling with a small family or friends.

Food and Drink

There are eight food and beverage options to choose from at Candelero Beach Resort. From a wood-fired oven pizza to a wine-bar, the choices are many at this all-inclusive hotel. If all-inclusive hotels are not your thing, you can also choose a partial package as well.

We dined at the Puerto Rican restaurant, Oregano Cocina Criolla, for breakfast and dinner. We enjoyed the creative take on some Puerto Rican classics. I highly recommend you order the criollo omelet for breakfast. This decadent omelet, filled with savory chunks of lechon, sweet morsels of sweet plantains, and cheese is the ultimate Puerto Rican breakfast. Needless to say, a little stroll in the forest did me well after breakfast!

Make sure to have a drink at Mahi Ceviche and Tapas Bar, the lobby bar at the property. Our bartender, Pedro, was very creative when it came to the cocktails. We told him what we liked, and voilá, he created the perfect cocktail. We paired them with granitos, a local dish from Humacao. This fried rice cake, topped with a spicy crab, is the ideal snack.

Candelero Beach Resort: The Verdict

If you’re looking for a cozy hotel with all the amenities for a perfect vacation, Candelero Beach Resort is a great option. I truly appreciated that from the moment you walk in, the property truly embraces its Puerto Rican heritage and highlights local businesses. From a Gustos coffee at the lobby (local coffee chain) to the plena music setting the atmosphere at check-in, you know that you are in Puerto Rico. Looking forward to returning and bringing my family along.

Candelero Beach Resort, 170 Candelero Dr, Humacao, Puerto Rico. Website

Disclaimer: I was hosted by Candelero Beach Resort, but opinions are my own. 

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As it turns out, the salt flats were amazing, but La Paz was also a fun, interesting city where three days goes by in an instant. There is plenty to marvel at, consume, and imbibe. I highly recommend spending at least three days in La Paz before heading to the flats. Not only will you get to enjoy La Paz but taking time to acclimate is very helpful…the altitude in Bolivia is no joke!

Where to Stay

Hotel Rosario La Paz: Located in the center of town, close to a teleferico line (the city’s aerial cable car urban transit system), this hotel was clean, comfortable and accommodating. It has a colonial style architecture, with an open-air courtyard and a restaurant which serves a great breakfast, complete with fresh-squeezed juices. Hotel Rosario La Paz also has 24 hours a day front desk staff who are helpful with directions and calling taxis.

What to Do

Red Cap City Tour: I always recommend kicking things off with a walking tour to orient yourself with the city. Our tour started off with a visit to Lanza market, where we visited small local shops serving freshly fried empanadas and apo, a warm breakfast drink made of purple corn. From there we went to San Pedro prison, a jail run as a small city by the inmates.

Afterwards, we hit up the famous witches market, calle jean which is a colorful colonial street, Murillo square, the central plaza of the city, and the famous San Francisco church. We walked through local street food markets, different neighborhoods and really got a feel for La Paz. One warning: it is a hilly city! Combined with the high altitude you may find yourself out of breath. Drink plenty of coca tea to ward off altitude sickness.

Cholita Wrestling: Historically, indigenous Bolivian men and women were treated poorly, disenfranchised and discriminated against throughout Bolivia. When President Murillo was elected in 2006 that began to change because of his role as a champion for the indigenous people. As such, cholitas were empowered to showcase their culture and they developed a theatrical type of wrestling called cholita wrestling. It is a must-see if you’re spending three days in La Paz, Bolivia. 

It involves cholitas as luchadores or fighters where they are dressed in their traditional garb and engage in wrestling and fighting with men dressed as monsters. The cholitas fight back when thrown and beaten by the monsters, and symbolically defeat their oppressors. It is as comedic and entertaining as it sounds. You will laugh, cheer and scream throughout the show, which of course includes snacks and plenty of beer. I highly recommend this uniquely Bolivian experience. We booked our tickets through Red Cap, which provided us with transportation to the show as well as tickets and coupons for drinks.

Coca Museum: This museum is dedicated entirely to the study of the coca leaf. Learning about the medicinal uses, as well as the illicit uses, of the coca leaf was deeply interesting, as we understanding the impact of the coca leaf on the Bolivian economy. The museum also has a café where you can enjoy coca tea, coca ice cream, and even coca brownies.

Ride the Teleferico: We bought tickets and just rode around on the cable cars for hours. It is a fantastic way to see the city from a bird’s eye view. This is probably the most cost-effective way to get some amazing views while spending three days in La Paz.

Where to Eat and Drink

This is always the most important question! Bolivian food is simple, with an emphasis on potatoes, corn, bread, and vegetables that can grow in difficult terrains such as carrots and corn.

Gustu: For a local fine dining experience, Gustu is the place to go. The venue offers exquisite dishes such as locally foraged mushrooms with a poached egg, native potatoes roasted and served with pickled onions, a dulce de leche inspired mango custard dessert and an impeccable local wine list. Prepare to dine for hours and if you are lucky, the staff will treat you to a tour of the kitchen and pantry, where you can learn about local Bolivian herbs, plants, and spices.

Ali Pacha: This is another fine dining option, but with a twist – it is plant-based. Truly, it is one of the most creative meals I have ever had.

Berlusca: We loved this little Italian joint that served fresh bread, light vegetable soup and delicious dishes like homemade pasta with zucchini and a sweet Pomodoro sauce. A local specialty is pasta with fava beans and cheese: unusual but divine.

Café del Mundo: This fun, travel-themed café has an extensive international menu where there is something for everyone. From falafel burgers to nachos to pasta, you won’t be short of options. They also have cocktails, milkshakes and coffee drinks, and you can choose from oat milk or quinoa milk.

Popular Cocina Boliviana: One of the more interesting spots in La Paz, this casual restaurant serves a set menu that focuses dishes made with quintessential Bolivian ingredients like potatoes, quinoa, fresh fruit, and bread. The menu will include an appetizer which could be a creamy vegetable soup, an entrée such as a stuffed potato, a local potato stew, a savory quinoa dish, or Bolivian empanadas called salteñas. Dessert, complete with local fruits, is also included.

Café Sol Y Luna: Stop by for a Singani cocktail. Singani is Bolivia’s national liquor, a grape brandy which you can drink on the rocks or in a cocktail.

Three Days in La Paz, Bolivia: The Verdict

South America is truly a fascinating continent to explore. I highly recommend visiting Bolivia, including La Paz. Three days in La Paz only scratches the surface but it’s worth the trip!

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Where to Stay

Santa Teresa Hotel Rio de Janeiro – MGallery by Sofitel: While many tourists elect to vacation in the famed Copacabana and Ipanema neighborhoods, my husband and I elected to stay off the beaten path in Santa Teresa. Santa Teresa is a charming, artsy neighborhood full of winding roads, cafes, and art galleries. Located on the top of the Santa Teresa hill, almost any spot in the neighborhood offers great views of the city.

The hotel itself is lovely, with a pool surrounded by trees frequently visited by monkeys and hummingbirds, a high-end restaurant, a spa, and a bar that offers jazz band Sundays. Our breakfasts were full of exotic Brazilian fruits, warm bread, and mimosas, while our pools days were complete with snacks from the kitchen and endless caipirinhas. Staff is kind and attentive. I highly recommend booking a massage if you have time! Although the hotel is not in the center of town, Uber is quite reliable in Rio, so it’s easy to get to the other parts of the city.

What to Do

Eat Rio Food Tour:

When looking for where to eat in Rio de Janeiro, consider booking a food tour. While the Eat Rio Food Tour offers an excellent opportunity to taste dishes and ingredients unique to Brazil, there is more to the tour than just food. You will peruse the streets of Brazil, exploring localities such as Lapa, Glória, Flamengo, and Laranjeiras. You will visit historical highlights such as the Selarón Steps, a set of steps covered in tiles from all of the world, collected by famed artist Jorge Selaron.

Most notably, you will experience Brazilian culture by strolling through open-air markets, riding the subway, and visiting local establishments. Highlights of the tour include a sampling of Brazilian fruits, orchestrated by your friendly Eat Rio Food tour guide Tom. From the sweetest mangos you will ever have to the jackfruit, chiku, and cashew fruit your taste buds will be singing as soon as the tour begins.

Equally as exciting is the Amazonian soup you will get to enjoy. It’s an unusual soup, sour and savory, and brimming with jambu greens, which will numb your tongue as you chew! Beers and caipirinhas are free-flowing throughout the tour, which culminates in an epic meal in a local restaurant called Severina de Laranjeiras. After sampling paes de queso, coconut and tapioca desserts called cuscus, a bevy of juices, empanadas, savory tapioca crepes and more, it’s hard to believe you could have room to eat more but you will!

The food at Severina is delightful, with rice and beans, sweet mashed pumpkin, a delectable baked dish called Escondidinho de brocolis, where broccoli is smothered in mashed yucca and sprinkled with cheese, and more. Post- the Eat Rio Food tour, I recommend a nap before heading out to enjoy the Brazilian nightlife!

Christ the Redeemer Statue

Rio’s most famous statue is definitely worth a visit. Located at the top of the Corcovado mountain, this massive statute, which was constructed almost 100 years ago, is awe-inspiring. The drive to the statute is also amazing, as you will pass through the lush Tijuca Forest.

Sugarloaf Mountain

This peak is the best view of Rio’s mountains, beaches, and forests. Take the cable car in and breath in the unbelievable views.

Where to Eat

Aprazivel Restaurant:

This casual Santa Teresa restaurant produces its own award winning beer, so while you enjoy the stunning views of the city and peruse the menu, be sure to nurse a cold beer. For your food, housemade cheese bread, called paes de queso, are the perfect nibble to enjoy with your beer. Next, try a fresh beet salad, grilled hearts of palm, which are wildly popular in Brazil, or one of their many rice dishes. All of it will make for a satisfying lunch or dinner. Prices are reasonable and the atmosphere is warm and friendly.

Oro Restaurant:

Located in the trendy Leblon neighborhood, this modern Brazilian restaurant is a real gem. The brainchild of Chef Felipe Bronze, Oro was selected by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants as the One to Watch, and for good reason. The food at Oro is wildly creative, with a focus on Brazilian ingredients presented in a contemporary, innovative, dynamic fashion. Your meal opens with symphony of nearly a dozen small plates, each one more visually delightful than the last.

A crunchy tapioca cracker, adorned with chayote caviar is an explosion of flavor, while a mini chickpea burger on a housemade bun is savory and nutty and perfect. Egg yolk gnocchi, sweet corn pudding, mini spring rolls and tiny churros are just a few of the many creations that we marveled at and devoured. Service is impeccable and the sommelier hosts a wine list that features a number of delectable Brazilian wines. Dinner is about $100 a person, not including drinks, but for the quality of food and exquisite fine dining experience, it is a steal.

Bazzar: Strolling along the beaches Ipanema is wonderful way to while a way an afternoon. While you do that, you may build up an appetite. Stop at Bazzar, a sweet spot with patio dining and a great wine list. We enjoyed a creamy corn soup, adorned with roasted mushrooms, pasta swirled in a homemade tomato sauce, and a divine dish featuring hearings of palm and plantain swimming in a coconut curry, crowned with breadcrumbs and served with local red rice.

Tereze

Located inside the Santa Teresa Sofitel, this high-end restaurant offers exciting dishes like eggplant gnocchi, Brazilian breads with a series of housemade spreads, fresh hearts of palm drenched in a grapefruit vinaigrette, breaded goat cheese served with a cupuacu marmalade, and a traditional Brazilian bean soup.

Rio de Janeiro: The Verdict

Rio de Janeiro is an all around fantastic city. Simply strolling through the different neighborhoods, walking along the beach, and trying all the different local dishes is fun, exciting and delicious.

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The Location

Tucked into a side street just three blocks away from Cusco’s main square, El Mercado has the perfect location. There’s no exterior facade to the property except a large blue door, which makes it different than many other boutique hotels in Cusco. Once you walk in, you’re led to this beautiful patio with colorful chairs in distinct Inca textiles that surround the bonfire.

The Scene

The front desk clerk gave a warm welcome and led us to their gorgeous patio. There, we were welcomed with a warm cup of coca tea (a must for the altitude) and a staff member sat down with us and explained every little detail about the hotel. It felt like we were staying at someone’s home. El Mercado Cusco draws an international crowd as we heard everything from Spanish to French during our stay.

The Room

The room was average size, with a comfortable bed that comes handy after a tough day of hiking. The staff also restocked the room every day with four water bottles at no charge, which I thought was a nice touch. The little details… this why I was looking for a boutique hotel in Cusco. I find that smaller properties pay more attention to the guest and their needs. The only thing I missed from the room was a tub. Not that I am a big tub person, BUT it would’ve been great to soak in one after our Rainbow Mountain Hike. I was in pain!

The Food

Whether you’re staying at El Mercado or another boutique hotel in Cusco, or anywhere in the city for that matter, I highly recommend you make reservations at their Taberna Restaurant. We arrived quite hungry and immediately ordered lunch: a delicious causa and soup. The food was delicious and the service was impeccable. We ended up eating there several times as we got back from our tours quite late with zero energy to venture out!

When looking for a boutique hotel in Cusco, we made sure the rate included breakfast. Our outings were quite early and we did not want the extra hassle of dealing with breakfast. I am all for a great hotel breakfast and El Mercado Cusco delivered. The breakfast included a warm and cold buffet, crepes made to order, made to order fresh juices, and fresh pastries. If you are going on an early outing, the staff will put together a to-go bag for you!

The Service

If there’s a highlight of our stay at this gorgeous boutique hotel in Cusco was the service. The staff was friendly and attentive at all times. They also went above and beyond. When I returned from Rainbow Mountain, I asked if there was a place I could wash my boots. The front desk clerk insisted on cleaning them himself. I tried to say no, but he wouldn’t have it. I thought that was the loveliest gesture.

Boutique Hotel in Cusco: El Mercado

If you’re looking for a boutique hotel in Cusco, I recommend El Mercado. Nothing sponsored here, we paid with our hard earned cash money. The location, decor, and the food make it the ideal place to stay in Cusco.

El Mercado, Calle Siete Cuartones, 306, Cusco City Centre,  Cusco, Peru; Website 

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Rainbow Mountain Peru: Booking The Trip

There are plenty of tour operators in Cusco and we decided to Eco Packers as we walked in, the salesperson gave us a good orientation about the tour. We paid 80 soles each ($25). The tour included breakfast, transportation, entrance to the park, and lunch. It was easy booking the Rainbow Mountain tour at short notice, but I suspect is because we were traveling in the low season (January).

Getting There

Getting to Rainbow Mountain in Peru is quite the trip! It takes around 4 hours to get there (with breakfast in between). I liked that our tour had a smaller van versus the huge tour buses, making it more comfortable. Once you get over the grogginess of waking up at 4 am, I recommend watching the beautiful Andean scenery: the emerald green mountains, the colorful Inca women walking along the road, and the extroverted llamas. The views from the bus were just as impressive as the hike itself.

Arriving at Rainbow Mountain

Compared to Machu Picchu, Rainbow Mountain is still in its infancy regarding receiving visitors. The site is pretty basic in terms of facilities. Bathrooms consist of old latrines and port-a-johns. Thankfully my Marine Corps skills came to play on this one. If you are a prissy traveler, the bathroom scenario may traumatize you!

The Hike

We were in a sticky predicament: we only had four days in Cusco and wanted to go to Rainbow Mountain. When we started hiking towards the mystical mountain, we only had spent 24 hours in the region. Altitude is real. It really slows you down. The Dutchman and I are used to hiking, but we had the wind knocked out of us (literally). Once you reach the top, you are at 5,000 meters above sea level. That’s 3 times what you experience in Denver!

Due to the altitude, it was a really tough hike for both of us. Thankfully our guide was super relaxed and wasn’t rushing us up the hill (we saw other tour companies herding people up the hill). That gave us the opportunity to take it all in, have some snacks, and rest when we were getting beat down by the elements. Our group comprised around 12 people: a mix of Brazilians, Peruvians, French, Bolivians, and us, the Dutchrican couple. Everybody had a different level of fitness, so each did their own thing.

View from the Top

After around two and a half hours and lots of pain, we got to the famous Rainbow Mountain. We completely beat! To make it worse, once we reached the top, we were hit with hail…lots of hail! It was cold and wet, and the worst part was that we didn’t get the epic view we were expecting. We quickly took a few photos and worked our way back. Needless to say, I was a bit disappointed. However, I got over it 15 minutes later, hiking down the muddy trail and taking in the majestic Andes mountains.

There’s an amazing sense of peace there. Once you zone out the tourists and look at the stunning rock formations, the sheep in the distance, and the snow-capped mountains, you know it is all worth it. Being in places of such magnitude also reminds us how we are just tiny specks in this vast universe.

How to Prepare

If you have the time, I suggest acclimatizing for a few days before heading to Rainbow Mountain. Drink lots of water before your trip, upon your arrival in Cusco, and during your trip. Our tour did not provide snacks/water, so ask your tour provider and buy accordingly. You can also find vendors along the trail selling snacks and drinks. Make sure you bring local Peruvian currency (soles) in small change or bills.

Wear comfortable hiking gear and focus on layers. On the way to the top, I got super warm, as it was quite the workout. Once I got to the top, we had to put on our hats and windbreakers as the temperature dropped quickly when we got hit by the hail storm. Our guide also recommended wearing a hat that covered the ears as it is supposed to help with altitude sickness. We paid $5 for hand-knitted hats from local vendors at the trail entrance. We looked silly, but our ears were warm and we got a cool souvenir out of it!

Rainbow Mountain: The Verdict

I am not going to front: this is a tough hike. I initially thought “perhaps I’m old,” but then I saw 20-year-olds gasping for air, and I didn’t feel that bad for myself. You can ride horses up to Rainbow Mountain if you know you’re not athletically inclined. However, be prepared to dismount on the steep hills, including the steepest part of it all: getting to the Rainbow Mountain itself!

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Exploring Buenos Aires

Where to Stay: Hotel Bobo. Buenos Aires is divided into many different parts, with Palermo being the super hip, trendy part of town. Hotel Bobo is in Palermo, which means you are close to plenty of great restaurants and shops. The hotel itself is modern and clean, with a restaurant that offers a great breakfast as well as coffee and pastries in the afternoon and dinner in the evening.
What to Do:  While exploring Buenos Aires, I recommend first and foremost wandering around the city.  Buenos Aires is a wonderful, cosmopolitan city.  Palermo is filled with cafes and bars where you can have coffee, and then transition to evening cocktails and late night dinner (no one eats before 9pm at the earliest in Argentina!) Once you are acclimated to your neighborhood, there is much to explore:

• Centro: Exploring Buenos Aires would not be complete without visiting the center of the city. See the Obelisk, built in 1936, the Plaza de Mayo, where the President’s pink mansion is, and the Opera House, which is just an amazing work of architecture. The Opera House is located on the widest avenue in the world: Nueve De Julio.

• La Boca: This neighborhood is where the huge influx of Italian immigrants settled early in Buenos Aires history. They brought with them the colors and flavor of the Mediterranean, and the buildings reflect every color in the rainbow. Very funky, fun to wander around.

• Recoleta Cemetery: This is one of the most famous cemeteries in the world. Eva Peron is buried here, as is one of Napoleon’s granddaughters. It has been in existence since the 1700s. The Recoleta neighborhood is like the Upper East Side of Buenos Aires, feel free to take a stroll after you visit the cemetery.
• San Telmo: When exploring Buenos Aires, don’t forget about San Telmo.  The oldest part of the city is characterized by colonial buildings. Check out one of the area’s open air antique markets!
• El Tigre: This is where the rich and famous have their summer homes. You can take a boat trip up the Delta River to El Tigre, where you will board another boat to see the gorgeous delta and its islands.

Where to Eat: When exploring Buenos Aires, one of the highlights is indulging in all the great eats throughout the city. Some of my favorites:

• Café Tortino: This French style bistro is wildly popular with tourists and locals, for good reason. The fare is simple, sandwiches and salads, but the pastries are fantastic, as is the coffee. Treat yourself to a crispy croissant, lemon pie, or black forest cake. The venue also hosts tango shows in the evening, which is an absolute must if you are in Buenos Aires. See their website for a schedule of shows.
• Freddo: The best gelato in town! Be sure to sample the dulce de leche flavor (dulce de leche is the famous caramel sauce of Argentina!).
• La Cupertino: It’s a homey spot where empanadas are an art, and the owner, Cecilia Hermann, is a legend. La Cupertina’s empanadas are half the size of street versions but much more delicious; try the humita y cebolla y queso empanada, which is corn, onion and cheese.
• Quimbobo: Located in the heart of Palermo, this charming venue has a great rooftop where you can have an awesome dinner highlighting dishes from around the world. Sample housemade ravioli, wok fried vegetables, an Indian thali, or a cheese quesadilla.
• Pizza Morelia: Pizzas are different in Argentina than in Italy and the US; they have thicker, chewier crusts, are super cheesy, making them quite delicious. The ones at Pizza Morelia are typical of the country. In addition to pizza, they have pasta, and of course, empanadas.

Exploring beyond Buenos Aires:

EL CALAFATE

Where to Stay: Hotel Esplendor. This gorgeous hotel has an upscale bar, a wonderful restaurant, and a cozy heated indoor swimming pool. Service is impeccable, and the views from the hotel are gorgeous. It is also walking distance from the main town, where you can enjoy food, drinks, and shops.

What to Do: You will have to fly to Patagonia from Buenos Aires, but it is well worth the trip. El Calafate is named after a berry that is native to the area; so be sure to sample el calafate gelato, liquor, and syrup!

• Glaciar Perito Moreno: This massive glacier, located in the Parque Nacional Glaciares, is one of the most beautiful sights you will ever see in your life. Once you arrive at the National Park you will take a boat around the glaciers, for a close up look. It is an absolutely unforgettable experience.
• The Glaciarium: The world’s only museum dedicated to the study of glaciers is not only interesting and educational, but it also has an ice bar! Put on a cape and treat yourself to a beverage in this below-zero bar.

• Off-Roading: Take advantage of the stunning Patagonian scenery by going off-roading.

Where to Eat:
• Restaurante La Cocina: Argentina is known for their great Italian food because of the high number of Italians who immigrated to Argentina. At this cozy spot enjoy housemade pastas, salads, great bruschetta, and plenty of wine.

IGUAZU FALLS

Where to Stay:  La Cantera Jungle Lodge. With a focus on protecting the environment, this lodge is right next to the famed Iguazu Falls. The lodge has a pool and a restaurant.

What to do: Visit the waterfalls! These gorgeous waterfalls are the 5th biggest in the world. Your hotel can arrange a guide to take you to the falls via a small open-air train. At the waterfalls you can walk and hike all day. Be sure to bring your camera!

The Verdict: There’s plenty to see, do, and eat when exploring Buenos Aires and beyond.  Have you been to Argentina? What are your recommendations? Leave them in the comments!

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My first impression of Costa Rica was how green it is. As I travelled from the capital of San Jose to Puerto Limón on the west coast on the way Cahuita National Park, I observed the different hues of green. They intensified as I travelled through the country; by boat along the jungle on the River La Suerte heading to Tortuguero National Park to observe the nesting of Green Sea Turtles; ziplining through the misty cloud high in the Monteverde Cloud Forest; at the quite town of La Fortuna nearby the Arenal Volcano; deep in the rainforest at a serene Eco lodge reserve and while hiking through Manuel Antonio National Park. It was 2002 and the itinerary was filled with city travel, adventure, ecotourism and local food. Fresh food and local dishes were always on the menu. So when I was invited to attend Thanksgiving: Costa Rican Style by Costa Rica Tourism, I thought: “great, it is food and is Costa Rica…..but Thanksgiving?”.

The cooking class was at the popular cooking school L’Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda.  Our Thanksgiving: Costa Rican style was intimate in size, guests formed groups at prep stations and prepared the ingredients for a three course menu under the instructions of Chef Randy Siles Aleandro.  Chef Aleandro is guiding the efforts to promote healthy and sustainable food by advocating the use of fresh and local produce in Costa Rican cuisine.

“Thanksgiving in Costa Rica” was a fun evening! That is what Costa Rica’s Pura Vida is about: enjoying life.  A great wa to have a “pura vida” moment is through good food. This one-of-the-kind event’s purpose was to shine the spotlight on the sustainable cuisine of beautiful Costa Rica. The Chef shared his culinary expertise with hungry guests on how to prepare a salad with mango, Red Snapper with coconut water sauce. His menu included fresh ingredients and was easy to prepare, although, my salad did not look as good as his, but I loved the taste. His belief is that working with the best quality ingredients delivers a healthy meal and great culinary experience. We concluded our dinner with baked plantains with brown sugar sauce as dessert. I could not stay away from the dessert sauce. It was delicious!

As we sat to eat our deliciously prepared dinner, sharing our stories, I was thankful I had the opportunity to visit Costa Rica. It almost seems as Thanksgiving in Costa Rica can be year round! Follow the Dining Traveler, as Jessica will be visiting Costa Rica early November.  She will share colourful images and travel stories of Pura Vida! Have you been to Costa Rica? What are    your favorite memories?

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