Japan Archives ⋆ The Dining Traveler https://diningtraveler.com/category/japan Travel Tips, Recipes, and Culinary Travel Website Fri, 19 Jan 2024 14:56:30 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.2 https://i0.wp.com/diningtraveler.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/cropped-DiningTraveler_IG1-e1581697224126.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Japan Archives ⋆ The Dining Traveler https://diningtraveler.com/category/japan 32 32 88259031 Recipe: Making Yakisoba at Home https://diningtraveler.com/2020/09/recipe-making-yakisoba-at-home.html Sat, 26 Sep 2020 17:46:20 +0000 https://diningtraveler.com/?p=7553 In April, I started The Dining Traveler Cooking Series, a video series in which I recreate dishes from my favorite destinations. With our travels coming to a halt, cooking global dishes became my virtual travel. This time we go to one of my favorite culinary destinations, Japan. Back in 2003, I spent a year in Okinawa as a […]

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In April, I started The Dining Traveler Cooking Series, a video series in which I recreate dishes from my favorite destinations. With our travels coming to a halt, cooking global dishes became my virtual travel. This time we go to one of my favorite culinary destinations, Japan. Back in 2003, I spent a year in Okinawa as a young Marine officer. I fell in love with the food, the culture, and the people. Living in Japan was a transformative travel experience for me-it opened my palate and my passion for travel. For this episode, we are making Yakisoba, a delicious Japanese stir-fried noodle dish. 

Yakisoba-Recipe-Japanese-Noodles-in-Wok

About the Yakisoba Recipe

I reached out to one of my favorite food people, Daisuke Utagawa, a partner of the Daikaya Group, one of the leading Japanese restaurant groups in Washington, DC. Inspired by the Yakisoba kits offered at one of his restaurants, Hatoba, I gave it a try at home. Based on Masaharu Morimoto’s recipe from the book “Mastering the Art of Japanese Cooking and the tips from chef Daisuke Utagawa, this Yakisoba recipe is easy to make.

Yakisoba-Recipe-Japanese-Noodles-ingredients

Getting the Ingredients

You can probably get your Yakisoba ingredients at your local Asian supermarket. I am lucky to live in Washington, DC, since we have a big selection of Asian supermarkets in the metro area. If you’re in DC and feeling nostalgic for Japan, check out Hana Supermarket. Don’t be fooled by the size-this tiny space is filled with all sorts of Japanese ingredients to make your favorite dishes. Also, Washington, DC, Japanese restaurant Daikaya just opened a virtual Japanese mini-mart full of goodies. If you don’t live near a Japanese restaurant, no worries! You can get items like Yakisoba Sauce, Red Pickled Ginger, Bonito Flakes, Aonori, and Yakisoba noodles online.

Making Yakisoba

Making Yakisoba is pretty easy to make, especially when you buy the pre-made Yakisoba sauce. As Daisuke Utagawa, the Daikaya Group’s co-owner, mentioned in the video, you can also make your sauce at home mixing Worseschire sauce with molasses. This recipe is a go-to for me during the week when I don’t have much time to make anything else. It is also a great dish to introduce people to Japanese food.

Yakisoba-Recipe-Japanese-Noodles-Pork
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Recipe: Making Yakisoba at Home

Yakisoba is a Japanese noodle dish, traditionally made with yakisoba noodles, vegetables, and pork belly. You can also replace the protein with tofu, chicken, or beef. 

  • Total Time: 25 minutes
  • Yield: 1

Ingredients

The recipe below serves 1:

 

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 ounces pork belly, thinly sliced, then cut into 3/4-inch pieces (in a pinch, you can also use bacon. If vegetarian, you can replace with tofu)

1/2 cup thinly sliced yellow onion

1/4 cup 2-inch-long matchsticks peeled carrot

1 cup roughly chopped (about two by 3/4-inch pieces) loosely packed white cabbage

1 (5 1/2-ounce) package yakisoba noodles 

2 tablespoons jarred yakisoba sauce, preferably the Otafuku brand

1 tablespoon shredded beni shoga (red pickled ginger)

1 heaping tablespoon bonito flakes1/2 teaspoon aonori (powdered seaweed) or finely chopped nori seaweed sheets

Instructions

Step 1: In a wok or large frying pan, heat the vegetable oil and onions, cook for 2-3 minutes until soft

Step 2: Add pork belly and carrots to the wok and cook for 5 minutes until the pork is cooked. 

Step 3: Add the cabbage, cook 3-4 minute until wilted

Step 4: While the vegetables and pork are cooking, on another frying pan, add 1/4 a cup of water to the frying pan, then add noodles and loosen them up with tongs or chopsticks.

Step 5: Add noodles to the wok, integrate the vegetable pork mix to the noodles with tongs or chopsticks. Add sauce and cook for 3-4 minutes. Reminder: Yakisoba noodles are already pre-cooked, so there’s no need to keep them longer than a few minutes for the flavors to meld.

Step 6: Placed yakisoba on the plate. Sprinkle with aonori and top with bonito flakes. Add a small portion of pickled ginger on the side.

  • Author: Adapted from Masaharu Morimoto
  • Prep Time: 10 minutes
  • Cook Time: 15 minutes
  • Category: Japanese Food
  • Cuisine: Japanese

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7553
Wander & Eat: Two Days in Kobe, Japan https://diningtraveler.com/2017/06/two-days-in-kobe-japan.html https://diningtraveler.com/2017/06/two-days-in-kobe-japan.html#comments Thu, 22 Jun 2017 03:18:29 +0000 http://www.diningtraveler.com/?p=3499 When we started to plan our trip to Japan, I knew I wanted to spend at least two days in Kobe.  I didn’t know much about the city, but its name has a direct link with Kobe beef, therefore I was sold.  Travelers are usually more interested in its more popular neighbors, Osaka and Kyoto. However, we […]

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When we started to plan our trip to Japan, I knew I wanted to spend at least two days in Kobe.  I didn’t know much about the city, but its name has a direct link with Kobe beef, therefore I was sold.  Travelers are usually more interested in its more popular neighbors, Osaka and Kyoto. However, we were looking for a authentic Japanese experience in a smaller city. Thankfully, we were able to find that in Kobe.

Two Days in Kobe Shrine
Ikuta Shrine in Kobe

Getting There

The Dutchman and I met in Tokyo as I flew in from Singapore and he arrived from DC. We knew that Tokyo could be overwhelming therefore we wanted to start in Kobe first. We ended up taking a flight with Skymark, a Japanese low-cost carrier. Our tickets were $90 one-way from Tokyo. (Check out our guide to Japanese low-cost carriers) There are other options for arrival as well. You can fly into Osaka and take the train to Kobe (less than an hour) or the high speed train (Shinkansen) from Tokyo. The train takes around four hours from Tokyo to Kobe.

The Vibe

After arriving to Japan from long trips we wanted to take it slow and wander around the city. The Dutchman was new to Japan and wanted to take a few days to acclimatize. Spending two days in Kobe was perfect for that. Although I have traveled across Asia many times, I always find that the region is sensory overload for me. Sensory overload from a positive sense: the sounds of a foreign language, the neon lights, the bright colors. Kobe brought that energy of a major Asian city in a more familiar environment.

Two Days in Kobe Harborland
Two Days in Kobe: Harborland

What to Do

Kobe by the Sea

Kobe is a city by the sea. Although it has a bit of an industrial feel, it still has small pockets of beaches and parks that are worth a stroll. We stayed near the Kobe Harborland. With a Ferris wheel, shops, and restaurants it’s a fun place to hang out and see how the locals spend their weekends. The port area can be quite busy but it has an energetic vibe. Being a port city, we saw many cruise ships at the port. We learned that it is not only a stop for big cruise liners but you can also take a short boat ride along the bay.

Kobe Chinatown

If you’re going to spend two days in Kobe, a must is the Kobe Chinatown. If you love food, this is the place for you. Compared to other urban centers, Kobe’s Chinatown is quite small, but it is packed with flavor. We enjoyed that the main street was a pedestrian road which gives you the opportunity to stop and take in each stall. There were vendors offering everything from savory dumplings, bao buns overstuffed with succulent pork, and rich desserts. Although it is Chinatown there are a few shops offering Kobe beef. We had a small helping that was good but nothing like what you have at a restaurant. My favorite item in Kobe was the shaved frozen mango drizzled with condensed milk. Simply delicious.

Two Days in Kobe Chinatown
Kobe Chinatown Vendor

Ikuta Shrine

We visited plenty of Japanese shrines during out trip to Japan. However, the one that captivated me the most was Ikuta Shrine. It captivated me because it was not overrun by tourists and I really got a feel on how the shrines are employed on a day to day basis. We witnesses what appeared to be a type of baby baptism ceremony that I found very moving. I was pregnant at the same so my hormones were in full effect! As we walked past the main shrine to smaller ones, we saw a lot of people praying. Being there gave us a great sense of peace.

Wander

The beauty of Japan is that you find the best treasures just by walking.  That’s what we did during our two days in Kobe. I think we only took a cab once after our food coma from our Kobe beef dinner experience at Wakkoqu. Walking along the alleys, taking in the lights, the plastic food displays, the energy of the young people is an experience in its own. I recall late one evening, we hung out at an arcade. We walked in  in amazement watching all the unique games with no idea of what they were! We tried the one universal one: the Kit Kat vending machine. Needless to say it look easier than what it is! 1,000 Yen ($10) lost for something we could’ve bought at the supermarket!

Two Days in Kobe Kobe Beef
Waygu Beef at

Eat!

Bakeries in Kobe

If you have two days in Kobe, you’ll have enough time to indulge. One of the things that surprised me about Kobe was the pastry scene. We didn’t have breakfast included in our room rate (boo) so we went for a walk looking for something to eat. As we wandered along the narrow streets of Kobe, we found plenty of bakeries. We treated ourselves to delicious rolls and coffee for less than $12 for the both of us. I don’t remember the particular names of the places we went to (that can be a challenge in Japan) but you’ll see plenty of bakeries in Kobe, especially in shopping areas. The pastries are not as sweet as the ones here in the US, but I actually prefer it that way.

Kobe Beef

If you go to Kobe and you’re a carnivore, you have to savor the meat! Kobe Beef is a beautifully marbled meat that almost melts at the mouth. Kobe Beef is not cheap, so we did a bit of research on where to go. A few friends who had visited Kobe before suggested Wakkoqu. I also asked the concierge at Hotel Okura his thoughts. He said it was one of his favorites as well. Having this dining experience is a must if you have two days in Kobe, or even if it’s just one night! The experience is not only about the beef, but about the art of preparation. I was enthralled by artistry of the chef. He treated the meat like a newfound treasure, carefully making his cuts in almost a ceremonial fashion. The formality of the process is a heavy contrast from the over the top show of Teppanyaki. Dinner with a few beers for the hub and no booze for me (I was pregnant with piccola) was $275. Next topic: ramen…

Two Days in Kobe Ramen
Ramen Perfection in Kobe

Below the Tracks

When we arrived to Hotel Okura, we met with the hotel manager who gave us a tour of the property. I love asking locals about their favorite dining experience. He gave us a gem: he told us to check out the restaurants under the train tracks of Motomashi Train Station. If you go under the tracks there’s an underworld of culinary perfection. There are so many tiny restaurants that it is tough to choose which one. As we walked by tiny sushi bars, bakeries, and noodle shops, we decided on ramen. We again got to experience the artistry of Japanese cuisine. This was a tiny place, literally the size of my kitchen at home. The bar held 10 people tops. The guy behind the counter was the waiter/cook/bartender. We ordered our ramen via a machine (thanks Google translate), gave the guy the number. Less than 10 minutes later, we’re delivered a beautiful bowl of ramen. All for 6,500 Yen (around $6). Wish we would’ve had more time to explore the different restaurants under the tracks.

Two Days in Kobe Hotel Okura
Garden at Hotel Okura

Where We Stayed

We stayed at Hotel Okura near the cruise port, which we booked via Booking. This property is classic Japanese luxury. It’s popular for its wedding venues, so you will probably encounter a few, especially if you’re staying in the summer months. The gardens are absolutely gorgeous. We spent an hour just working our way around the hotel. The rooms are larger than the classic Japanese hotel rooms and the room amenities go above and beyond. The bathroom had toothbrushes, disposable loofahs, and even facial cleanser. Dining Traveler Tip: consider staying in Kobe instead of Osaka. A luxury property in Osaka is on average 30% more!

Two Days in Kobe Izakaya
Izakaya Vibes in Kobe

Verdict: Two Days in Kobe

Whether you’re planning a multi-city itinerary to Japan or a weekend trip in you live in the area, Kobe is a great choice. There’s plenty to see, do, and most importantly eat during two days in Kobe. Dining Traveler Tip: Japan Guide

Planning a trip to Japan? Check out our Japan trip planning guide.

Headed to Kyoto? Check out our two day itinerary to Kyoto.

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Food and History: Two Days in Kyoto https://diningtraveler.com/2016/09/two-days-in-kyoto-japan.html https://diningtraveler.com/2016/09/two-days-in-kyoto-japan.html#comments Fri, 02 Sep 2016 00:34:53 +0000 http://www.diningtraveler.com/?p=3520 When working on my itinerary to mainland Japan, it was imperative that I added at least two days in Kyoto.  Sounds cheesy but ever since I read and watched “Memoirs of a Geisha” a decade ago, I was enthralled by this city.  When I shared my plans of traveling to Kyoto with friends who had […]

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When working on my itinerary to mainland Japan, it was imperative that I added at least two days in Kyoto.  Sounds cheesy but ever since I read and watched “Memoirs of a Geisha” a decade ago, I was enthralled by this city.  When I shared my plans of traveling to Kyoto with friends who had previously been there before, everyone had similar feedback: “It’s one of my favorite destinations in Japan”.   What can I say? After our trip, I vehemently agree with them!Two Days in Kyoto Fushimi Inari Shrine

The Scene:  Our two days in Kyoto adventure began as we arrived by Shinkansen (high speed train) from Kobe to Kyoto Station.  The station is large and the scene is sensory overload:  men in suits rushing to their next destination, little kids in their uniforms headed to school, visitors trying to figure out their next stops, and us, Dutchman & I, in the middle of the glass and steel of Kyoto Station trying to figure it all out.

Two Days in Kyoto: Higashi Temple
Two Days in Kyoto: Higashi Temple

Getting Around:  The staff at our hotel, Sakura Terrace The Gallery gave us the great tip of buying a daily bus pass for 500 yen (little less than $5). You can also purchase the tickets at the train/bus station.  This is not a tourist sightseeing bus; just the normal public transportation bus, which was great to move around past the tourist highlights.  Although Kyoto has a great underground system, we decided to explore the city by bus, as it gives us a better sense of where we are located and we can capture the city scene through the windows.  We also did a few trips by taxi and the prices were average, pretty much what you find in any big city. Example: a taxi from Kyoto Station to Gion district was around $12.  Bonus: most taxis do take credit cards.

Two Days in Kyoto: at an Izakaya near Kyoto Station
Two Days in Kyoto: at an Izakaya near Kyoto Station

The Food:  Where do we start??? Compared to my previous guides and posts of other destinations, I have to admit that there are many places that were so anonymous I can’t remember (or decipher) their names or where they were located.  However, I can remember the magic of walking into anonymous Izakayas (Japanese Gastropubs), trying to decipher menus with Google Translate or blindly trust the chef.  One of the Izakayas we went to was a random choice, close to the hotel, and as we arrived we can tell this is a neighborhood hangout.  What struck me the most was seeing something I’ve rarely seen in Japan: a female chef in the Izakaya.  A young girl jovially working the grill and greeting every customer as they came in.  We ordered small dishes, and one that really clings to my memory is a grilled rice ball with chicken and topped with pickled plums.  The smoky flavor or the crispy exterior or the rice ball still lingers in my memory.  To me, this is the beauty of Japan. It’s not about the flashy restaurants or name dropping chefs, but walking into anonymous establishments and truly experiencing Japanese culture.

Two Days in Kyoto La Locanda Ritz Carlton
Two Days in Kyoto: Dessert at La Locanda at Ritz Carlton

At this point of my two days in Kyoto adventure, I had spent six weeks in Asia, mostly in Okinawa and needed a break from Japanese food.  I took that break at La Locanda, the Italian restaurant at The Ritz Carlton Kyoto. There, we tasted simple yet amazing dishes such as a plato primo of spaghetti with tomato sauce, raviolis made in house, and we concluded our meal with a decadent dessert of a deconstructed crumble with mascarpone ice cream.  At the Ritz Carlton, we received a local tip for a restaurant: Torito a local favorite. We headed there the following day… Torito is more of an upscale Izakaya and reservations are recommended. We sat at the bar (my favorite place to sit at an Izakaya) and watched the magic unfold.  There, we indulged in rice bowls topped with grilled chicken, skewers of tender chicken thighs, and plenty of sake that the Dutchman indulged in.  For the lovers of sweets: head to the Isetan at Kyoto Station to their basement.  There I saw some of the most beautiful pastries I’ve ever seen for every taste: beautiful mango tortes, classic chocolates, and plenty of mochi (rice paste) desserts. I was taken by the level of detail in each one of these pastries, truly a work of art.  There are several sit down cafes in the basement if you wish to sit with your sweet fix.

Two Days in Kyoto Isetan Food Court
Two Days in Kyoto: Isetan Pastries

What to See: There are plenty of places to walk off the delicious food in Kyoto.  The city is famous for its shrines and these spaces live up to their reputation.  On top of my list was the Fushimi Inari, famous for its rows of red tori gates that are famously depicted in Memoirs of a Geisha.  Entrance is free but it is extremely crowded.  My advice is to go early in the morning and hike further into the trails to get some great pictures without the crowds.  Another highlight was Kinkakuji, known as the Golden Pavilion.  This park is visually stunning with a gorgeous golden pagoda standing in the middle of a pond.  It makes you feel as if you step back into another era of Japan.  This place is also very crowded with tourists and school groups but it’s so worth it.  We did go to Higashi Shrine within walking distance of Kyoto Station. It was not touristy but rather felt like a place that locals came and did their ritual of Buddhist prayer as we saw several people who looked like they were on their way home and stopped over for a prayer.  It was quiet and remarkably peaceful.  Wandering the streets of Gion, the Geisha district at night was quite a treat.  It was amazing to see the small houses where they live and even catching a glimpse of these mythical women who still conserve the tradition of many centuries ago.  I was so taken by the girl in the kimono walking along the street in her beautiful kimono and headpiece that I did not even take a photo.

Two Days in Kyoto Nishiki Market
Two Days in Kyoto: Nishiki Market

One of my favorite experiences during the trip was visiting the Nishiki Market..  When traveling, I always search for food markets.  There’s something about the energy of the vendors, the color of the food, the scents, that draws me in.   It came alive with stalls lined with fresh fish, colorful selection of pickled vegetables, savory fried treats, and green tea everything!  You can easily eat your way around the market with all the delicious offerings.  Still hungry?  There are plenty of restaurants on the second floor of the market although they are labeled quite inconspicuously. We ended up at a restaurant which specialty was eel (this is very common in Japan, most restaurants focus on one core ingredient).  Two things food lovers should not miss in Kyoto: this market and a Japanese supermarket experience, the supermarket at Isetan at Kyoto Station is pretty epic!

Two Days in Kyoto: Drinks at Sakura Terrace The Gallery
Two Days in Kyoto: Drinks at Sakura Terrace The Gallery

Where to Stay:  We stayed at the Sakura Terrace The Gallery, a Japanese owned hotel we booked via Booking.com (tip: while in Asia, also look up Agoda.com, they have some great deals in Asian properties).  It was the perfect hub for our two day in Kyoto trip.  A small boutique hotel, we loved the modern feel, open courtyard, and friendly service.  The rooms were small yet had all the comforts we needed with small luxuries as pajamas, slippers, and an in-house bathhouse. During the early evening, the hotel offers complimentary cocktails during happy hour and the hotel provides guests water and tea at all times at the lobby.Two Days in Kyoto Golden Temple

The Verdict:  We could only wish that we could’ve spent more than two days in Kyoto.  There’s so much to see and eat in this beautiful and historic city.  Come with an open mind and palate to truly enjoy the city!

Planning a trip to Japan? Check out my previous post on how to plan an epic trip to Japan!

 

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Travel Tips: Planning a Trip to Japan https://diningtraveler.com/2016/08/travel-tips-planning-a-trip-to-japan.html https://diningtraveler.com/2016/08/travel-tips-planning-a-trip-to-japan.html#comments Tue, 02 Aug 2016 01:44:39 +0000 http://www.diningtraveler.com/?p=3444 Editor’s note: This post, “Planning a Trip to Japan” was updated in January 2024. I have traveled to over 60 countries, and I must say Japan has been one of the most intriguing destinations I’ve experienced so far. My love affair with Nippon began over 20 years ago when I was stationed in Okinawa, an […]

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Editor’s note: This post, “Planning a Trip to Japan” was updated in January 2024.

I have traveled to over 60 countries, and I must say Japan has been one of the most intriguing destinations I’ve experienced so far. My love affair with Nippon began over 20 years ago when I was stationed in Okinawa, an island south of the mainland island of Japan.  Given my work schedule and the high exchange rate of the Yen (Japanese currency), I did not have the opportunity to explore mainland Japan back in 2003. As of 2024, I’ve traveled to mainland Japan twice: in 2016, when I was pregnant with my daughter, and in 2022, when I participated in a culinary tour. I finally had the opportunity to fulfill my dream.  If you live in the United States or even Europe, planning a trip to Japan takes a bit of time, but a little forward planning makes it the trip of a lifetime.

Planning a Trip to Japan Kyoto
Planning a Trip to Japan: Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto

Dining Traveler Tips:  Planning a Trip to Japan

Getting There

The easiest part of planning a trip to Japan is getting there.  Americans do not need a visa to enter; the entry process is quite simple, and you have 90 days to enjoy the country.  However, the flight is long and pricey. Plan between $900 – $1,300 for a plane ticket, and you’re looking at a 14 to 10-hour flight if you’re traveling from the continental USA, given you’re flying non-stop.  Flying Dulles (Washington, DC) to Tokyo takes 14+ hours.  Check out my long haul flight essentials post for tips on how to survive the journey.  Although getting there is expensive and time-consuming, don’t get discouraged!  The long trip is worth it!

Traveling within Japan

When planning a trip to Japan, I recommend taking a minimum of ten days to discover the country to be able to experience a handful of cities.  Japan has a great transportation system: the ultra-efficient Shinkansen (high speed rail) system to the abundance of low-cost Japanese carriers (check our guide here) that make it easy to travel around the country.  In our case, we flew a low-cost carrier, Skymark, to Kobe for $100 per person from Tokyo the day after our arrival in the country and worked our way back to Tokyo via Shinkansen.  As I was planning ahead, I found the train system website to be quite confusing. However, I was told by other travelers not to worry as it was quite easy to purchase tickets at the train station. 

We traveled from Kobe to Kyoto to Tokyo via high-speed train, and it was easy to book at the station.  The high-speed rail is ultra-modern, comfortable, and affordable.  It ruined me… I never want to ride on an Amtrak again! Highly recommend you buy an international data plan for your trip, as Google Maps and Translate got us to the places we needed to be much easier! I am a big fan of my T-Mobile Simple Choice Plan which allows me 5g data and free texts while I am traveling with no additional cost to my plan.

Where to Go in Japan

There are so many places to see in Japan that one trip doesn’t cut it (unless you’re lucky to stay the full 90 days!).  I recommend thinking about the theme of your trip. Is it food? Is it culture? Is it shopping? That determines which cities will suit you best.  In our case, we really wanted to experience the food and culture.  We started small at Kobe, moved to a larger city, Kyoto, and concluded our adventure in Tokyo.  Both the Dutchman and I agreed that Japan can be sensory overload: the lights, the crowds, the unknown language… We’re glad we started in a small city like Kobe and worked our way to Tokyo.

I regret not making it to Osaka, but we agreed that a three-city itinerary was perfect for a 10-day trip.  I ended up going on a solo trip to Osaka in 2022 and loved every minute of it.  People asked which was my favorite city in Japan. I  say Kobe to the surprise of others.  It’s a smaller city; we barely saw any Westerners, and it gave us a glimpse of quotidian Japanese living. Other cities/places readers recommend:  Nagoya, Nagano, Hokkaido, and of course, my beloved Okinawa. A website I found useful was Japan-Guide.com,   it has a lot of tips of what to see at each city.

Planning a trip to Japan Tokyo
Planning a Trip to Japan: Art Room at Park Hotel Tokyo

Where to Stay in Japan

When I was planning my trip to Japan, we toyed with the idea of staying at a Ryokan (traditional Japanese guest house) or a hotel.  In the end, we went for hotels in all of our three stops. A Ryokan offers traditional Japanese rooms where guests have tatami mats and futons, which means you’re sleeping very close to the floor.  Also, the rooms in our price range were quite small.  During this trip, I was 4.5 months pregnant and was looking for a little more comfort and let’s not forget the Dutchman is 6’9”.  However, we did end up booking Japanese-owned hotels in each city:  Okura Kobe, Sakura Gallery Terrace in Kyoto, Park Hotel in Tokyo, and Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo.  I believe this gave us a unique glimpse of Japanese hospitality. We loved how every room had pajamas and slippers, generous amounts of toiletries, and an unlimited supply of tea!  Dining Traveler Tip:  Although my favorite booking site is Booking.com, I recommend doing a price comparison with Agoda.com, as it usually has better prices for Asian properties.

Planning a Budget for your Trip to Japan

Traveling in Japan can be pricey.  For a quality hotel, look to spend $175 a night or more in the smaller cities.  In Tokyo, $225+.  At this time (January 2024) the dollar is very strong to the Yen, so you may find some good deals. We did find the food to be not only of great quality but affordable.  One of the recommendations I got was to explore the food courts of the metro stations and department stores. These are not your typical American “food courts”. There, you can find everything from sushi to tempura to ramen, exquisitely made.  We had some great quality meals below several underground stations.  That was one of my favorite parts, especially at dinner time. Being in a crowded, anonymous Izakaya with a combination of young students, salarymen in their suits, and us, the Dutchrican couple trying to decipher the menu with Google Translate.

Impressions

Having lived in Asia (Okinawa and Seoul) for almost two years combined and traveling across the region, I find it to be a bit overwhelming sometimes, even for a seasoned traveler like me.  I attribute it mostly to the language barrier, despite the abundance of teaching English in Japan jobs now available in the country.  Although I can say  basic pleasantries in both Japanese and Korean, it can be a bit intimidating to enter a restaurant where there’s no English menu and the staff cannot communicate with you. 

The reality is that you will encounter many of these places, even in the large cities (usually those are the places with really good food!).  The beauty is that once I get over the fear, I love the exchange with a chef or a waitress, the smiles, their patience, and most importantly, how they genuinely care if you enjoyed the meal or not.  That’s the true magic of Japan: the people.  It’s not only a place where the ancient and the modern magically collide but also a place where you will experience unparalleled hospitality.  I truly hope to be able to return soon and explore other regions, especially in the north of the country.  Are you planning a trip to Japan?  Where are you headed to?

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Guide to Japanese Low Cost Airlines https://diningtraveler.com/2015/07/japanese-low-cost-airlines.html Mon, 06 Jul 2015 16:18:26 +0000 http://www.diningtraveler.com/?p=1739 Editor’s note:  This is the first post of our Asia contributor, Jen.  Jen and I met in Germany where we both lived in 2008 and now she currently lives in Japan.  An avid traveler, she loves to explore Asia, taking advantage of Japanese Low Cost Airlines with her lovely family on weekend trips and family vacations. […]

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Editor’s note:  This is the first post of our Asia contributor, Jen.  Jen and I met in Germany where we both lived in 2008 and now she currently lives in Japan.  An avid traveler, she loves to explore Asia, taking advantage of Japanese Low Cost Airlines with her lovely family on weekend trips and family vacations. Headed to Japan?  You can discover the Land of the Rising Sun and its neighbors for less than you may think! Her tips:

Japanese Low Cost Airlines
Shuri Castle Okinawa

I moved to Japan 2 years ago and vowed to see it all…and experience the vast culture within the land of zen, beauty, and tradition. With the help of low-cost carriers, it is possible to travel the nearly 2,000 miles from snowy Hokkaido in the north to beautiful sub-tropical Okinawa in the south relatively inexpensively. LCCs in Japan are safe, reliable, and operate fleets of new aircraft.

Japanese Low Cost Airlines Aircraft
Jetstar Jet Photo by Jetstar Media Center

Guide to Japanese Low Cost Airlines

Jetstar Japan

Jetstar Japan flies to over 11 destinations within Japan using a fleet of 18 A-320s. I have traveled from Okinawa to Tokyo (Narita) as well as Osaka (KIX) on this airline.  Both flights were pleasant and comfortable with leather seats. Many snacks, including shrimp chips and curry buns (almost like a panko donut filled with curry – amazing!), are offered for sale on board, as well as soft drinks, cocktails, Jetstar keychains, and a plush Jetta Red Panda, the mascot.

Service is offered to several smaller airports in Kyushu, such as Oita, Kagoshima, and Kumamoto. Because they are owned by Qantas and Japan Airlines, they also offer international flights partnered with JetStar Group’s subsidiaries to Australia, New Zealand, Vietnam, Singapore, and Hong Kong (most of these international flights will require a stop in Tokyo).

Japanese Low Cost Airlines Landscape
Cherry Blossoms in Japan

Skymark

Skymark operates an all Boeing 737-800 fleet out of Haneda which is Tokyo’s city airport (Narita is 85 km away; Haneda only 25 km). Of the Japanese LCCs, Skymark has one of the largest fleets at 27 airplanes and has the largest route network.

They are the dominant carrier into Kobe (the world’s best beef!) and fly into other smaller airports including Kagoshima, Nagasaki, and Sendai. Sometimes it’s fun to just pick a cheap flight to a destination you didn’t even know you wanted to go! If you find a good price and have a sense of adventure, why not? The odds are that you’ll experience something fabulous.

A cool feature of booking flights with Skymark is that you can pay in cash or with credit at local konbini (convenience stores) such as Family Mart, 7-Eleven, and Lawson.

Japanese Low Cost Airlines Vanilla Air
Vanilla Air
Photo from Vanilla Air Facebook Page

Vanilla Air

Vanilla Air is another great travel option. Owned by ANA, flights normally range from JPY 4990 (~$42 USD) to JPY 10,000 (~$83 USD) one way, depending on season and destination. They fly a small fleet of 8 A-320s to major destinations such as Tokyo and Sapporo but also internationally to Hong Kong, Taipei, and even Kaohsiung in southern Taiwan.

On-board they offer a variety of snacks and drinks. One tasty option is the Okinawan specialty, Goya Chanpuru – stir-fry consisting of vegetables with rice and goya (bitter melon). Oishii!

Japanese Low Cost Carriers
Solaseed in the Sky
Photo by Solaseed Facebook Page

Solaseed

Solaseed flies in and out of Haneda mostly to the Kyushu region at the southern tip of mainland. For tourists classified as “temporary visitors” and non-Japanese passport holder, Solaseed offers a “VISIT JAPAN” fare for JPY 10,500 (~$88 USD) per flight for all routes. Fares and flights are available on a stand-by basis only. While not as convenient, it’s great for anyone who has the time to go wherever, whenever. More details about this fare can be found on Solaseed’s website.

Japanese Low Cost Airlines Taiwan
View from Taipei 101

Peach

Based out of Osaka with hubs in Okinawa and Tokyo as well, Peach is my favorite Japanese Low Cost Airline. They have a great schedule and offer 15 destinations on an all A-320 fleet throughout mainland Japan and internationally to South Korea, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. Peach offers discount train tickets available for purchase in-flight for Osaka and Tokyo sightseeing.

My family (husband and 2 girls) has gone to Osaka, Ishigaki (service no longer offered), Fukuoka, and Taipei with Peach. All airfare costs per round-trip have been under $400 total for the four of us. They’re practically giving the tickets away. Peach’s pink, purple, and white color scheme is fun. They have also been known to be super generous and hand out stickers when certain children get rowdy!

Japanese Low Cost Airlines
Peach Airlines

Their on-board services are unique too, incorporating seasonal items. For summer, try the Sparkling Peach Rose or cool off with Peach Ice Milk. Cosmetics, fragrances, and Peach-themed accessories round out their offerings.

Most often, LCCs are subsidiaries of major airlines and are therefore able to provide air travel at a discounted price. LCCs may travel out of remote gates which require you to walk outside or take a shuttle to your flight. Also, you’ll likely end up paying for any extras such as checked luggage, snacks, and beverages. Pack light or prepay for luggage as it is much cheaper. Maybe shove a snack and drink in your carry-on before you board from any one of many konbini in the airport. Low fares make up for the lack of “extras” and leg room (if you’re over 6 feet tall like my husband) but absolutely do not compromise safety standards in getting you to your destination.

Whether you want to surf, snorkel, and relax on wild beaches in Okinawa; ski and hike in Sapporo; visit temples and experience old Japan in Kyoto; or hit up nightlife, high-end shopping, and the world’s best restaurants in Tokyo, LCCs have got you covered. Have you tried a Japanese Low Cost Airline? Which one? Tell us about your experience!

*(All Japanese LCCs fly in/out of Okinawa where I am based.)
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To Live in Okinawa: A Homecoming https://diningtraveler.com/2015/04/live-in-okinawa-japan.html Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:46:25 +0000 http://www.diningtraveler.com/?p=881 If you follow me on social media, you know that I recently spent five weeks in Okinawa, Japan.  This has been a homecoming of sorts for me as my first time living abroad was in this idyllic island.  To have the opportunity to live in Okinawa has been one of the greatest experiences I’ve had. […]

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If you follow me on social media, you know that I recently spent five weeks in Okinawa, Japan.  This has been a homecoming of sorts for me as my first time living abroad was in this idyllic island.  To have the opportunity to live in Okinawa has been one of the greatest experiences I’ve had.  In 2003, I was 24 years old and has just started my career as a Marine Officer.  Although I stayed pretty busy at work, I took every free moment to discover the island.  I bought a second-hand 1992 white Honda Integra (in the US is an Acura, there’s marketing for you!) and drove all around the island, discovering secluded beaches, snorkeling in the East China Sea, eating amazing food, and dancing Salsa with the local Okinawans.  Most importantly that experience of living abroad, of shyly trying to speak Japanese at restaurants, using hand gestures to get by, taking risks by ordering something I couldn’t even remotely read defined my adult life view of travel.

Cape Manzano Okinawa Japan
Cape Manzano, Okinawa, Japan

 

I grew up in a small town in Puerto Rico on the southern coast.  My dad would take us on road trips around the tiny island and our plane rides consisted of visiting family in Upstate New York.  My most exotic trip was in 1986 when I visited Toronto, Canada with my mom and my cousins.  I dreamt of faraway lands watching National Geographic with my father.  We would analyze the animals and talk about nature.  At times we even wept together when we saw an animal die as part of the circle of line in four the wild.  I would fantasize of visiting these lands one day.  Okinawa was my first opportunity to immerse myself in a culture completely foreign to me and know that to live in a country is radically different than just visiting.

To Live in Okinawa, Sunset in Okinawa, Japan
Sunset in Okinawa, Japan

To live in Okinawa has opened my eyes and palate to a new and familiar world at the same time.  In many ways, this small island south of mainland Japan reminded me of Puerto Rico.  From the block cement home to brave the hurricanes to tiny dirt roads leading you to epic beaches, it was a familiar feeling in a foreign world.  11 years later, I still see those similarities in many other things such as pig feet at the market (in Puerto Rico we love pig’s feet), the smiles of the locals, and random gestures of generosity that are not lost in translation.

Kouri Island Okinawa
Dining Traveler in Kouri Island, Okinawa

Okinawa inspired me to see more of the world and to realize that we, the citizens of this earth can be so different and so similar at the same time.  With that realization shortly into my arrival in 2003, it fueled my desire to see more of this beautiful and complicated planet.  From there, I traveled to Thailand twice and to Australia. Now at my 36 years, I’ve seen over 40 countries and I am still in awe of the things I encounter.

During this trip, I still had that awe factor. I had it when tasting Agu Pork or having to literally stop my car on the side of the road to take in a sunset, it reaffirms why I love to travel.  I still do not understand how people get the opportunity to live in Okinawa and stay in the confines of a base or in their expat communities.  It defeats the purpose of the experience.  I know firsthand that it is uncomfortable when trying to explain something when both parties cannot communicate in the same language (thankful for Google translate).  The fear of the unknown is real but when the first step is taken, you realize how easy and rewarding it is to get by.

Shuri Castle, Okinawa Japan
At Shuri Castle, Okinawa, Japan

So dear Okinawa, thank you for staying beautiful. Thank you for your turquoise beaches, delicious fish, and smiling elderly people.  Thank you for taking me in and making my first living abroad experience a memorable one which inspired me to subsequently live in four other countries in Asia and Europe and visit dozens of others.  My 8 year old self watching National Geographic with papi knew she wanted to see the world but did not know how at the time.  When those opportunities come to see beyond your backyard, take them!  If they don’t come to you, create them. To live in Okinawa was the start of years of living and exploring the world. The only regret I have is not staying there longer.

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Exploring Shuri Castle Okinawa, Japan https://diningtraveler.com/2015/03/exploring-shuri-castle-in-okinawa-japan.html https://diningtraveler.com/2015/03/exploring-shuri-castle-in-okinawa-japan.html#comments Sat, 21 Mar 2015 01:40:00 +0000 http://www.diningtraveler.com/2015/03/exploring-shuri-castle-in-okinawa-japan.html I visited Shuri Castle for the first time in 2003 when I first lived in Okinawa.  It was my first time living abroad and everything look so new and foreign.  When I first entered the castle area it was sensory overload with the lacquered details, the women in kimonos, and the men in traditional costumes. […]

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I visited Shuri Castle for the first time in 2003 when I first lived in Okinawa.  It was my first time living abroad and everything look so new and foreign.  When I first entered the castle area it was sensory overload with the lacquered details, the women in kimonos, and the men in traditional costumes. Almost Twelve years have passed and I have experienced many exotic destinations in between but I still had the wide-eyed curious look at my most recent visit to Shuri Castle last weekend. Here are my highlights:

Shuri Castle Okinawa
Shuri Castle, Okinawa Japan


Getting There:
  Contrary to Mainland Japan, public transportation outside of Naha (the capital) is quite limited. Therefore, I recommend renting a car.  Depending which country you’re visiting from, you may need to get a International Driver’s License (mandatory for Americans visiting Japan).  The positive thing is that parking is affordable at Shuri Castle at 320Yen (around $3), there’s even an attendant who offers to park your car in the very tight spaces offered!  No car? See the tips from Japan Guide on how to get there.

Shuri Castle Okinawa Exterior
Shuri Castle Okinawa Exterior

The Experience:  As you enter the castle, you’ll see plenty of tourists, mostly from Mainland Japan and some from South Korea. I was surprised that with so many Americans on the island, we only saw a handful of our people.  There are women dressed in Kimonos offering tourists to take photos dressed up in Kimonos and the staff throughout the park are dressed in traditional attire, taking you back to the days of the Ryukyu Kingdom in Japan.

Shuri Castle Okinawa Guide
Shuri Castle Guide

Although the exterior of Shuri Castle is free, to get to the good stuff (the castle interior fee is 820Yen (around $8) you have to pay the entrance free. When you walk into the Seiden (the inner palace), you’re transported to the golden era of the Ryukyu Kingdom with its lacquered detailed red exterior. When you enter the structures within the Seiden, you are required to take off your shoes (don’t forget to have socks or a good pedicure!).  They even provide you with a bag to carry your shoes as you tour the grounds.

Tea at Shuri Castle
Tea at Shuri Castle

A must-do experience at Shuri Castle in Okinawa is tea in the castle grounds. The tea room was remodeled to reflect how the kings at the time would entertain their guests.  In the tea service you can see the merge of Chinese and Japanese culture (Okinawa had also Chinese occupation centuries ago) in its offerings: Chinese tea and egg based Japanese cookies.  Our favorite were the sesame paste cookies, delicious.  The kimono clad staff explains (mostly in Japanese) the tea ceremony, thankfully there’s a booklet in English explaining the menu and the history behind the cookies served.

Tea Room at Shuri Castle Okinawa
Tea Room at Shuri Castle

We continued to explore the displays of art, artifacts, and sculptures around the Seiden grounds.  It is interesting to see how the castle has been reconstructed to look exactly like the times of the Ryukyu Kingdom centuries ago given that it was destroyed during WWII.  The reconstruction began in 1992 and in 2000 it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 11th in Japan.

Shuri Castle, Okinawa Japan
At Shuri Castle, Okinawa, Japan

 The Verdict:  We concluded our visit with a walk around the external gardens of the castle at the Ryutan lake and Enkanchi which was peaceful and serene with the calm waters, the large koi fish swimming in the lake and the ancient trees which line the grounds.  Perfect place to end as the castle area can be quite busy with so many tourists.  Shuri Castle is a must see for anyone visiting or living in Okinawa, especially if you love design and history.
For more information about Shurijo Castle, visit the official website.

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Eating in Okinawa: Sushi, Ramen, and Izakaya https://diningtraveler.com/2015/03/sushi-ramen-and-izakaya-eating-in-okinawa.html Mon, 16 Mar 2015 06:17:00 +0000 http://www.diningtraveler.com/2015/03/sushi-ramen-and-izakaya-eating-in-okinawa-part-i.html Eleven years ago, I departed Okinawa, Japan wondering if I ever would return to this misunderstood tropical paradise. Two weeks ago, I found myself back to this island for work.  Some things looked new  and some looked exactly the same as I left them.  Eating in Okinawa encompasses some of my fondest memories on this […]

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Eleven years ago, I departed Okinawa, Japan wondering if I ever would return to this misunderstood tropical paradise. Two weeks ago, I found myself back to this island for work.  Some things looked new  and some looked exactly the same as I left them.  Eating in Okinawa encompasses some of my fondest memories on this island.  As most business travelers know, it’s hard to squeeze in sightseeing when you’re busy with meetings and work.  As I have mentioned previously on my posts about Boulder and Cancun, I get the most out of a culture and destination through its food.  This has been the case with Okinawa as well. I’m here for an extended work trip and here’s a summary of the notable places I’ve eaten at since my arrival:

Jiro-cho:  When I returned to the United States after living in Japan for a year I was ruined when it came to sushi.  Whether is was the supermarket variety or the $200 dinner, I could not find my happy sushi place.  Last Saturday, I re-encountered my sushi happy place at Jiro-cho, a small sushi and tempura restaurant in Okinawa.  As you enter, you see the chef at work preparing the fresh cuts of fish. They prepare the sushi with the fish  received that day so if you’re too late, you may miss out on the good stuff.  Tip: reservation is recommended. The fish melted in my mouth, the egg sushi had the perfect salty flavor, and the roe were tiny bursts of happiness.  The tempura is made with vegetables local to Okinawa: bitter melon (I still can’t get into it, but anything deep fried is delicious), Okinawan purple sweet potato, and daikon.  JiroCho: 次郎長寿司北谷ハンビー店, 1 Chome-12-8 Chatan, Nakagami District, Okinawa Prefecture 

Eating in Okinawa Ramen
Ramen at Tenka Ippin


Tenka Ippin:
  I used to avoid the “American Village” like the plague when I used to live here, I found it generic and with bad food catered to Americans (hence the name).  Since the unfortunate Tsunami in mainland Japan, many people have moved to Okinawa  for a new start. This can be seen through the new construction, gentrification, and new food spots popping up all over the island.  Tenka Ippin is a Kyoto chain that made its way to Okinawa  perhaps cater to those from the mainland diaspora and I’m in love. I indulged in a set of thick ramen (Kotteri) with a side of rice and gyoza for less than $10 (hurray for a weak yen). The broth was thick and flavorful with hints of spice and the perfect noodle to broth ratio. I’m still thinking about it.

Tenka Ippin:  3 Chome Mihama, Chatan, Nakagami District, Okinawa Prefecture 904-0115

Eating in Okinawa Ukishima Garden
Decor at Ukishima Garden

Ukishima Garden:  As I was getting stir-crazy from being in the middle of the island with no car, I got an email from Lena from JetsetTimes who was also in Okinawa.  Two travel writers on a little known Japanese island?!? We had to meet!  I paid a very expensive and adventurous cab ride to Okinawa to Ukishima Garden, a quaint cafe on a small side street on Naha. The place was recommended by Rie, whom I met from the Okinawa Tourism board.  The menu is international with a hint of Okinawan. We had a local tofu variation of the caprese salad that was unforgettable. We were hesitant about it but we were both happy we gave in. The savory tofu was the perfect alternative to the buffala mozarella (never thought I would say that, being the cheese fan that I am).  We also tried a squid ink paella that was not quite paella but it was very tasty nonetheless.  Aside from the Euro-Japanese themed menu, the atmosphere made it a place to be: a mix of Europeans, Japanese and Americans coming together in a quaint space with small eccentric details on the walls and friendly waitstaff.  Ukishima Garden: 浮島ガーデン, 〒900ー0014 Okinawa Prefecture, Naha 松尾2丁目12−3

Eating in Okinawa Soupcon Cafe
Coffee at Soupcon Cafe Okinawa

Soupcon Beachside Cafe:  I had set up a meeting with the Okinawan tourism board and when looking for a place to meet in Ishikawa, I found Cafe Soupcon on Google maps and decided to take a chance and meet there. Completely unassuming on the outside, it’s a hidden treasure on the island.  It reminded me of North Shore in Hawaii with surfboards lining the concrete walls, vintage mementos, and mismatched retro furniture.  There, I had a beautiful cappuccino and a delicious sliver of cheesecake as Rie shared with me unique spots throughout the island and tourism trends in Okinawa. She also shared beautiful books and magazines about the island. Although I can’t read kanji, I still browse through them to get photography and design inspiration! Soupcon Beach Cafe: 1 Chome-6-38 Ishikawaakebono, Uruma, Okinawa Prefecture

Eating in Okinawa Shabu Naha
Shabu Shabu at Kaigyuu Izakaya

Kaigyuu Izakaya:  Really, I couldn’t figure out the name of this place nor the address even after I ate there. I ended up taking a photo of the place and sending it to my nephew who speaks Japanese to dig up this place.  My friend and I were looking for somewhere to eat when we saw a sign outside the elevator with pictures of meat and all sorts of other goodies.  Tip: when looking for somewhere to eat in Asia, make sure to look up, some of the best places are on the 3rd floor and up! Needless to say, we were able to conclude the place was a shabu place based on the pictures on the sign.  Thank goodness for hand signs, pictures, and google translate because nobody on the staff spoke any English. We ordered gyoza, the most succulent pork belly I’ve ever had, and shabu shabu meat of abu pork and beef. When the four trays of meat were delivered to us with a plate overflowing with veggies and tofu, we got scurred!  We didn’t think we were able to throw it down but we did. We spent almost three hours drinking Orion, being carnivores, and catching up after not seeing each other for over  a year.

Kaigyuu Izakaya: 海牛, 〒900-0015 Okinawa Prefecture, Naha, Kumoji, 3 Chome−12−4, ラフテビル 5F

Eating in Okinawa Sushi
Sushi in Action at JiroCho

As I move into a 12 hour day schedule  at work , I will probably will not be able to explore as much until a few weeks from now but my belly is happy… for now.  Eating in Okinawa can be overwhelming, especially with the language barrier and all the amazing choices on this little island.  Have you been to Okinawa? What is your favorite foodie spot?

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