During the summer of 2015, an idea came to mind. As I was scrolling through my Instagram feed, it amazed me how a single photo can inspire a person to travel to a particular destination. I thought about how I’d translate what I do on the blog and on social media into a visual guide. I thought about how I felt that there were not enough travel stories about Puerto Rico being told by actual Puerto Ricans in traditional travel media. That’s how Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico was conceived.

Producing a coffee table book/travel guide is not cheap so I decided to put together a Kickstarter campaign. It’s fair to say that I underestimated how challenging it was going to be to raise $20k! I was posting on social every day, trying to get press, calling every single person I knew. We reached our goal with 8 hours left on the clock. For those who are not familiar with Kickstarter: if you don’t make your goal, you do not receive the funding. Stakes were high! We received contributions ranging from $1 to $2k. I am extremely grateful for every single person who contributed, regardless of the amount.

A few months later, Italo (my photographer) and I embarked on a five-week-long journey to Puerto Rico. In true Marine style, I arrived with an organized itinerary down to the hour. A few days into the trip, that plan was quickly thwarted. Part of the magic was meeting amazing people along the way who were leading us to different places to shoot. Some of the best memories of the trip were the ones that were totally spontaneous.

We left Puerto Rico with over 6,000 images, countless memories, and many new friends. Meeting new people and getting to learn about their restaurant, hotel, or town was the true highlight of this experience. Although the title says “Dining” this is beyond food, this is my attempt to highlight Puerto Rico’s biggest asset: its people.

As I started working on the book, I learned I was pregnant. My first trimester was not very kind to me, leaving me with chronic fatigue. Midway through my pregnancy, I had to fulfill my Marine Reserve duties and headed to Okinawa, Japan to work with my reserve unit. Between work and sleep, I developed much of the written content of the book and started my initial photo selection. Trying to pick my favorite photos out of 6,000 became incredibly overwhelming.

Life kept throwing curveballs throughout the production of the book. I took a short term assignment at the Pentagon, my belly kept growing, and had to keep working. Being self-published, one does not get an advance so I had to work all my jobs and develop the book at nights or the weekends. Fast forward to 2017. I had a baby, my husband started his own company, I took on a new assignment with the Marines, and in all this, I managed to finish my book in late August of 2017. As I am getting ready to send my work to my editor, Hurricane Maria savagely took its wrath across Puerto Rico.

In the chaos of ensuring that my family and friends were ok, I didn’t think it was appropriate to even start the conversation about a tourism book to Puerto Rico. Nina asked me to go back to the drawing board and incorporate my thoughts on what happened after the Hurricane. It was impossible to tell the story without having gone to Puerto Rico first. In early 2018 I visited twice, checking in on several of the people that we met.

Although the energy was low on my first visit, the optimism was high. What I have witnessed in the last four trips I’ve made to Puerto Rico is a renaissance. A renaissance of Puerto Ricans coming back to their roots. Although thousands left the island, many stayed and even some returned to help in the recovery process. New restaurants are sprouting everywhere, local agriculture is increasing, and chefs are tapping into traditional ingredients and methods. In many ways, I believe this is the best time to go and visit the island.

I believe the universe works in mysterious ways. Although the book did not arrive in the timeline I wanted it to arrive in, it arrived at the time it needed to. A time where we need to tell the story of Puerto Rico. As I embark on my book tour, I want to continue the conversation about Puerto Rico. That is why I am hosting a series of book events that focus on the future of travel to the island with panel discussions and presentations.

About the book: The book is available for purchase via Amazon. Follow my Facebook and Instagram for more information on our book events.

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Cabo Rojo (Three hour drive from San Juan): If you love understated vibes, head to Cabo Rojo on the southwest point of the island. Make sure to visit Playa Sucia, Playa Combate or Playa Buye for calm clear waters, local vibes, and uncrowded beaches. See the town come alive on the weekends at La Parguera which is lined with bars, restaurants, and live music.  Take a tour of the bioluminescent waters in the evening. If you are looking for an authentic experience with little outside tourists, this is the place for you. This past summer I got to explore much more of Puerto Rico beyond San Juan in preparation for my book, Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico. I was immediately taken by the west coast, an area which I admit I don’t get to go that often as my family and friends are in the north and southeast part of the island. 

Where to Stay:  Cabo Rojo has plenty of smaller inns and apartment rentals. Must check out: the “jungalo” built by a German expat offered on AirbNb.

Rincon, Aguada, and Aguadilla (Two and a half hour drive from San Juan): These neighboring towns on the west coast of Puerto Rico have been gaining more attention due to mainlanders setting up shop because of its amazing surfing. Rincon has been a surfer’s favorite for many years and its neighbor, Aguada has been gaining attention recently with several hostels catering to surfers such as Grateful Souls Hostel. For those who love underwater adventures, Aguadilla is the place for you.  There are several wreckages near the area you can dive or snorkel around. This local favorite is known for its colorful fishing boats which line the coast.

Where to eat: Local favorite Marullo’s Art Cuisine in Aguada has an inspired cuisine by Chef George who specializes in local seafood.

Ponce: Locals call it La Perla del Sur (the pearl of the south). A ninety-minute drive from San Juan, it’s the second largest city on the island.  Take a trip back in time at its art deco town square (la plaza) with the black and red stripped antique firehouse and beautifully preserved buildings.  La Guancha, a local favorite is known for its amazing sunsets, casual restaurants, and a marina in which you can rent paddleboards or kayaks and glide through the clear and calm waters.

Where to Stay:  Hotel Belgica is a small boutique hotel built during the turn of the century located off the town square of Ponce. Many of its details have been preserved such as the lobby furniture, paintings, and dark wooden doors.

Guavate (45 minute drive from San Juan): The mountainous center of Puerto Rico is where the traditional flavors of the island come alive. Route 184 can get busy on weekends when locals head to Guavate for lechon (split roasted pork). Have a Don Q rum cocktail (the rum of choice on the island) and enjoy live music at many of the lechoneras along the route.  Once a month, my family would make a day trip of it, indulging in favorites such as arroz con gandules(rice and pigeon peas) and guineitos (poached green bananas) alongside the savory roasted pork.

Favorite lechonera: Lechonera Los Pinos.

Fajardo, Rio Grande, and Luquillo: Those who prefer luxury travel, this area, less than an hour’s drive from San Juan is for you. If you stay in the Waldorf-Astoria El Conquistador, you have access to one of the most beloved outer islands, Palomino. The resort has exclusive access to it with a private ferry which shuttles hotel’s guests.  One of my favorite beaches in Fajardo with easy access by car is Seven Seas.  The clear calm waters makes it perfect for swimming and don’t forget to bring your snorkel as there are some small reefs close to shore.  No trip to Puerto Rico is complete without a trip to El Yunque, the only rainforest in the US National Park Service.  On a clear day, take a hike to the top of El Yunque for epic views of the east coast of the island.  Tip:  head there on a weekday in the early morning.  During the weekends it is crowded with locals and tourist alike.

Where to stay:  If you prefer a smaller property compared to the large resorts nearby, check out El Hotelito near the rainforest grounds.

Culebra: Less than an hour plane ride from San Juan or a two hour ferry ride from Fajardo, there is Culebra, one of the most stunning islands I have ever been to (no, I am not being biased). Playa Flamenco is an idyllic crescent shaped beach that has been voted many times as one of the top beaches in the world.  With its white sand and clear blue waters, it is definitely a paradise.  Although many visitors set up shop at Flamenco (there are camp grounds there as well), rent a jeep and discover the lesser known beaches. Bring your snorkels to Playa Tamarindo and become acquainted with the sea turtles or discover the quietness of Playa Zoni.

Where to Eat: Start your day with a ham, egg, and cheese sandwich at Pan Deli bakery.

Vieques: The largest outer island of Puerto Rico is Vieques. Compared to its bohemian sister Culebra, you can find a W Hotel along with other smaller boutique hotels. La isla nena (little girl island), as it is known to locals is known for its pristine beaches where it is common to witness wild horses frolicking on the beach.  Puerto Rico has several bioluminescent areas, however, the most stunning is the bay in Vieques.  Book an evening kayak tour and witness the sea come to life.

Where to Eat:  Explore the inventive cuisine of Puerto Rican celebrity chef Jose Enrique at El Blok.

There are many more reasons to discover Puerto Rico beyond San Juan.  You will encounter friendly people, savor the true flavors of the island and get to see why locals go on roadtrips across the island on the weekends.  Internal tourism has become very popular during the last few years with popular Instagram accounts such as @WhateverPR and @backpackingPR featuring little known spots on the island.  Follow their accounts to explore more local gems as you prepare your trip.  Next month I will be headed to Puerto Rico to work on my book, Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico.  What is your favorite place in Puerto Rico Beyond San Juan? Share in the comments!

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Getting There:  Royal Isabela is an hour and a half drive to San Juan with moderate traffic.  Avoid driving there in the late afternoon from San Juan as there is a lot of commuter traffic.  On my way to Royal Isabela, I was involved in a car accident.  I was waiting at a traffic stop when a car rear-ended me. Thankfully everyone involved was not injured but the shock of the accident took over my mood.  I called the hotel as I had a dinner reservation and wanted to let them know I was running late.  When I arrived, I was asked by the front desk and the hotel manager how I was feeling and if I needed anything.  That immediately put me at ease and made me feel at home right away.

The Villas: Royal Isabela is a set of “casitas”, beautifully appointed one-bedroom villas sitting atop a hill with a gorgeous view of the ocean.  Although each casita has an individual plunge pool, there are two, large common area pools available to the guests.  The villa decor remind me of my trip to Kenya with the dark woods, neutral colors, and canopied bed.  Coincidentally, I find out later that the décor was actually inspired by one of the owner’s trip to South Africa. The villa had a large living room, sitting area, large bathroom with tub and double shower, and a bedroom.  The one minus was the welcome note.  Apparently the housekeeping got the welcome notes mixed up and mine was addressed to a different name.

The Food:  There is a renaissance of traditional dishes on the island and Royal Isabela’s La Casa Restaurant has fully embraced it.  The restaurant, headed by executive Chef José Carles (who also happens to be from my hometown of Guayama) offers a tasting menu of Puerto Rican classics.  My favorites of the evening included a soup of “verduras”, traditional root vegetables such as taro, pumpkin, and cassava blended together.  The scent immediately took me back to my childhood.  The “serenata de bacalao”, a salad with fresh avocado and salted cod was another favorite.  Chef Carles also served gnocchi made with yucca with a tomato and eggplant sauce.  There’s a love for all things local at La Casa Restaurant with many of the ingredients of the ingredients are sourced from the garden on property and some of the fish caught by the chef himself.

The Property:  As much as I love to explore a new destination, I could easily stay in the Royal Isabela grounds for several days without leaving the property!  I haven’t done 18 holes of golf in a few years but I was inspired by their scenic golf course.  It also helps that the owners, brothers Charlie and Stanley Pasarell and Edwin Perez are avid golfers.  Not into golf?  Guests can arrange for golf lessons and there’s also a driving range to practice your game.  I wish I would have time to hit some balls!

Royal Isabela also has access to a secluded beach, which is a 20 minute walk from the property.  I got quite the workout just getting to the beach but enjoyed the walk through the lush forest. If you have physical limitations, beach access may be an issue or you may want to head to a nearby beach such as Playa Jobos with easy access and parking.

The Service:  Some of the challenges with luxury properties is there can be an air of pomposity with staff.  This is not the case at Royal Isabela.  I found the whole staff from the manager to the housekeeping staff very welcoming.  I also had the opportunity to dine with one of the owners, Stanley Pasarell.  One of the things that impressed me about Mr. Pasarell was his down-to-earth demeanor.  He knew the name of all the staff members, to include the busboys and also where they were from and their interests.  The following morning I also observed how him and his brother, Charlie greeted each of the guests at breakfast and asked them detailed questions about their stay.

The verdict:  I may get in trouble saying this because I hate to pick favorites… but Royal Isabela is one of my new favorite lodging experiences in Puerto Rico.  From the beautiful beaches to the cozy villas, it’s definitely a top luxury pick on the island.

Disclaimer: I was hosted by Royal Isabela, but as always, opinions are my own.

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Dining Traveler’s Picks: Places to Eat in San Juan

Santaella: The Placita (farmer’s market) of Santurce has been a center of Puerto Rican food for decades.  Lately, there’s been a crop of amazing restaurants popping up in that area. One of them is Santaella.  I recently dined there and the menu is deliciously inventive.  Try the crab on a large bed of fried shredded plantains (aranitas) and the fried red snapper.  Dining Traveler Tip:  The restaurant is quite busy in the evening, lunch service is much more relaxed.

St. Germain:  Old San Juan is one of my favorite places in Puerto Rico. With its colorful buildings and its narrow cobblestone streets, it is popular with locals and tourists alike.  St Germain has a hip fresh vibe merging European and Puerto Rican cuisine.  I had a deliciously colorful salad with skirt steak and local veggies.  Dining Traveler Tip:  My friends rave about their brunch, be sure to make a reservation.

Pirilo Pizza Rustica:  Another local favorite in Old San Juan is Pirilo Pizza Rustica.  Located in Calle Fortaleza, it is a tiny spot beloved by tourists and locals alike.  I enjoyed their large pizzas which arrive on a pedestal at your table.  The prices are reasonable, especially for Viejo San Juan.  Not to miss: their sangria.  It has a unique touch of crushed anise, delicious.

Casa Cortes Chocobar:  Cortes Chocolate has been a staple of Puerto Rican cuisine for many years.  I recall dipping thick slices of gouda cheese into my hot chocolate cortes as a kid growing up on the island.  This classic combination (at least for Puerto Ricans) comes alive in their chocolate grilled cheese sandwich.  When I saw it on the menu I was intrigued and it did not disappoint. It took me back to my childhood.  Not to miss: The art gallery onsite.

1919 at Condado Vanderbilt: Looking for a decadent dining space?  1919 is the perfect backdrop for a special occasion with its sexy dining room with rows of glimmering crystals on its flat chandeliers.  Some of the highlights of the refined menu of Chef Jose Cuevas include local seared duck and a rich chocolate cake for dessert.

Soleil Beach Club: Back in 2008 I had my 30^th birthday party at this institution in the Piñones neighborhood of San Juan.  Everything was perfect: the flawless lechon with its crispy skin, the morcillas (blood sausage), and arroz con gandules.  I was surprised and happy to see that Chef Juan Carlos still keeps this delicious menu alive (and consistent) eight years later as I recently attended a wedding at this restaurant. Dining Traveler tip: head there midday for great views of the beach.

Budatai:  Some of my favorite cuisines: Thai, Japanese, and Puerto Rican come together at this local favorite in the Condado neighborhood of San Juan.  This is a favorite of one of my friends who lives nearby.  Their menu is a creative variation of the traditional Puerto Rican restaurants you may encounter when looking for places to eat in San Juan.  From their sushi selection to their pork guisado dumplings, the menu caters to every palate.

Kasalta: There’s a place that I never miss on my trips to Puerto Rico. The name is Kasalta.  Sometimes I literally land, pick up my rental, and end up at this place as my first stop.  This panaderia (bakery) is an institution at the Ocean Park neighborhood of San Juan.  Even President Obama has eaten here!  My favorite item is the medianoche (midnight) sandwich. It’s a grilled soft baguette with fresh roasted pork, ham, swiss cheese, mustard, and pickles. Just magical.  I always end my lunch with a cortado coffee with a quesito (puff pastry filled with cream cheese).

Asere:  Another favorite among friends, Asere brings the flavors of Cuba to Puerto Rico at La Placita de Santurce.  New to the San Juan restaurant scene, it has quickly built a following.  Chef Marino has included recipes from his grandmother to the menu to include grilled octopus, Cuban sandwich, and cod fillet with tomatoes and melon.  Dining Traveler Tip:  have a drink at their lounge and take in their gorgeous Spanish design.

Niche Bistro:  This tiny restaurant tucked away at Acacia Boutique Hotel, in my opinion one of the best kept secrets in San Juan.  French Chef David Chaymol has created a “Francorican” menu merging French classics with Puerto Rican ingredients.  I still think about the duck confit plantain pastelon I had, it was one of the best dishes I’ve had on the island.  Save room for dessert: the soufflé made with Mallorca bread and a berry sauce is not to be missed.

There are so many places to eat in San Juan that the list can go on and on.  It has been interesting to see the evolution of Puerto Rican gastronomy throughout the years.  From unlikely cultural combinations, to the classics, there is no shortage of where to dine in the capital of Puerto Rico.

What are your favorite places to eat in San Juan? Share in the comments!

Want more Puerto Rico travel tips? Help us make Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico Book a reality! Contribute & share the Kickstarter campaign!

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What is The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico?

In this world of social media, I did not want to create the typical travel guide.  One of the things I have noticed about my years as a travel blogger is that a single image on social media can inspire a traveler to book a ticket to a faraway land.  I am creating a book in which an image can transport you to the destination.  This is why I decided to partner with Italo Morales, a friend and a talented photojournalist to capture must-see spots on the island.  The book will be edited by fellow boricua and SUNY Albany alum Nina Alvarez, writer, editor, and founder of Dream Your Book Author Services and The Aurora Center for Creative and Spiritual Arts in Rochester, New York.

Merging Digital & Print

I believe you should be able to touch inspiration.  There is always room for a photography book in your office, living room, or bedroom.  However, I am all about packing light.  The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico will provide both.  The book will have an e-book companion for your travels.  There is also an app in the works.

Why The Dining Traveler Guide To Puerto Rico?

Throughout the years, I’ve read dozens of articles about Puerto Rico on publications such as Travel and Leisure and Conde Nast Traveler.  Although the stories can provide a great snapshot of the things the island has to offer, I noticed there was something missing: articles about Puerto Rico written by Puerto Ricans on traditional travel media in the United States and Europe.  Having grown up in Puerto Rico, done part of my college studies there, and countless trips, I decided to take matters into my own hands: publish a book about travel experiences from a boricua perspective.

What Will Be showcased?

During my latest travels to Puerto Rico, I have taken road trips throughout the roads less traveled for tourists.  Whether it is lechon (roasted pork) at Guavate, deep in the center of the island or a sunset at La Guancha in Ponce, I want to merge popular experiences with sights not as well known for those who visit from abroad.  One of the things I enjoy about traveling to Puerto Rico is that you can blend luxury and budget experiences on the same trip.  The content will be diverse as I will focus on showcasing locally owned businesses such as restaurants, tours, and hotels.

What is the inspiration?

As a kid growing up in Puerto Rico, I discovered the island on road trips with my parents. We used to take trips to the beach, mountains, and visit my father’s friends who owned restaurants in tiny towns like Arroyo and Peñuelas.  I want to bring back that childhood discovery into the book.  From an aquaponic farm in the heart of Puerto Rico to a “jungalo” in Cabo Rojo, I want to include my favorite discoveries.

The content is of El Pueblo (everyone)

One of the great things that has happened with sharing my project is the outpour of support from personal friends and The Dining Traveler followers.  I get tagged on Instagram and Facebook on photos of restaurants and beaches I should add to the guide.  People send me emails on where to go and what to see to add to the book.  I recently shot the video for our campaign with a talented young Puerto Rican videographer, Jose Marquez who I discovered through Instagram.  The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico is about featuring ideas from our community.  Do you have a spot you would like to have featured? Tag me on Instagram or Facebook with @diningtraveler and #DTGuidePR.

How does the campaign help?

To be part of the Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico, please contribute to our Kickstarter page.

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