Frank Lloyd Wright’s Laurel Highlands

Before this trip to Laurel Highlands, I was a Frank Lloyd Wright novice. I really didn’t know much about his work or story. Started out on a bright morning at Fallingwater, one of Wright’s most famous creations as well as one of the most stunning examples of his work. I instantly became a fan. Built originally as a summer retreat for the Kaufmann family (of Pittsburgh-based Kaufmann Department Store), Fallingwater truly personifies Wright’s commitment to nature, incorporating the landscape into everything about the property and truly bringing the outside indoors.

The iconic building (it once graced the cover of Time) was literally built into the side of a waterfall and nestled around as part of the existing boulders of the landscape. A giant boulder suddenly becomes part of a kitchen countertop, another becomes part of the fireplace mantle. It’s seriously unlike anything I’d ever seen. And throughout, I noticed Wright’s unique style of “compression and release” – using tight, narrow stone staircases and hallways that then “release” into the rooms at the other end.

Kentuck Knob

Just down the road is Kentuck Knob, a hexagonal shaped home and prime example of Wright’s famous Usonian style of one-level, affordable living. Sometimes referred to as “Fallingwater’s child,” Kentuck Knob was designed into the existing hillside so it is “of the hill,” continuing Wright’s one-with-nature theme. The home has the trademark floor-to-ceiling windows and mitered glass that open to the sweeping views of the forest and dramatic Youghiogheny River Gorge. Inside is filled with a dramatic fireplace made of local sandstone as well as cypress wood in Wright’s signature Cherokee red color. Wright’s compress-and-release philosophy is evident here as well, complete with a dining room with ceilings so low one can’t help but sit down at the table.  A rather claustrophobic hallway is only 21” wide, which the original owners admitted they never once used in their 20+ years at the home.

Local Eats

But this is, of course, the Dining Traveler, and so good eats are also a must. I personally love the roadside mom-and-pop type eateries, such as Bittersweet Café, conveniently located near both Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob. Owner Terri Krysak and her husband man the kitchen and their two sons handle the counter. The cafe serves some pretty mean lattes with delicious housemade syrups! Sandwiches and soups feature local ingredients. I sampled the Bird, a chicken panini, as well as a delicious (especially on a cold day) winter squash soup. I even got to meet mascot Bob the Cat and spend some time browsing the adjacent antiques store (all family-owned).

Where to Stay

And if you ever want to know what it’s like to truly live in a Frank Lloyd Wright home in Laurel Highlands, the Duncan House at Polymath Park, is one of the few properties in the world open to overnight guests. The experience is quite in demand as reservations book up to a year in advance. Duncan House was brought from Illinois to Polymath Park about a decade ago by architect Tom Papinchak. A self-proclaimed Wright enthusiast, also owns and operates Treetops, a cozy restaurant on property with his wife, Heather. Offering a variety of salads and sandwiches for lunch with unique and healthy touches. For example, the side dish offered the day I had lunch wasn’t the typical fries or chips, but rather a rainbow quinoa salad. I’ve also heard raves for Treetops’ Sunday brunch and outdoor patio, where it really feels as though you’re dining among the trees.

Laurel Highlands Tour de Wright: The Verdict

If you’re an architecture enthusiast, design fan or one just interested in Wright’s sometimes amusing stories of stubbornness and indignation when it came to his work, you won’t want to miss the Laurel Highlands. Your tastebuds will thank you for the visit too.

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The Scene

As I arrive at the gate, a friendly employee welcomes me and gives me directions to the property in which I’m staying, the AAA five diamond Falling Rock (a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired boutique hotel). I zig zag across the resort, passing the famous signature Chateau and Lodge, the spa, shopping, golf courses and directional signs pointing me to everything from the safari to golf courses and the zip line. There’s even a private air strip for guests arriving by private plane. I finally arrive at Falling Rock, where I’m greeted by name and ushered inside to check in, where I’m once again greeted by name, handed a glass of prosecco (yes, please!) and introduced to my butler (!), who brings me to my room.

The Architecture

I see the Frank Lloyd Wright influences immediately at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort – the stone, the symmetrical designs – but where the FLW properties and furniture were known for aesthetics over comfort, here it’s anything but. WOW. A giant, luxurious room overlooking the (while I was there) snow-covered golf course, pillows for DAYS, and a bathroom I’m pretty sure was larger than my first apartment.

The Activities

No time to relax though – there was exploring to be done. Now, I visited Nemacolin in early March, with snow still on the ground, but past the season of most of the resort’s snow activities. But trust me – there are activities to be had. The adventure center has everything from dog sledding and snow tubing to go carts and off-road driving courses as well as zip lines and mini golf. The safari tools introduce guests to buffalo, wolves, lions, tigers and bears (oh my). There’s an incredible art collection and eclectic sculptures dot the landscape. There’s even Lady Luck Casino, but I refrained, having an almost uncanny ability to immediately lose my cash within about three minutes.

The Food

But that’s not all. I head back to Falling Rock for dinner at Aqueous, Falling Rock’s steakhouse, where FLW fans will notice his trademark chair styles and banquettes, and culinary enthusiasts will notice some truly remarkable artistry in the kitchen. The windows provide some fantastic sunset views, but the best view in town is going to be on the plate in front of you. My ribeye steak with a horseradish cream sauce was cooked to a perfect medium rare; the accompanying brussels sprouts were a vibrant green and had just the right amount of crunch. However, the real star of the meal were the scallops. Seriously. Get. This. Dish. Sweet scallops with just the ideal sear are served with maple pork belly, more sprouts (What can I say? I’m a sucker for any dish that involves brussels sprouts) and a decadent truffle emulsion. I’m still having dreams about those scallops.

Dream Bath!

I’m glad I skipped dessert though, because as I returned to my room, I was greeted with milk-and-cookies turndown service. To top the night off, a butler-drawn jasmine bath, complete with rose petals and candles. Kind of a shame I was there alone! However, I wasn’t going to pass on the opportunity. The giant soaking tub may have been the largest I’ve ever been in. Spoiler alert: the tub was so big my5-feet-tall-on-a-good-day self kept slipping underwater. All in all, a perfect way to unwind and relax before closing my eyes for the night in the lap of luxury.

Nemacolin Woodlands Resort: The Verdict

Nemacolin Woodlands Resort is celebrating its 30th anniversary in 2017 with a variety of special deals and offers for guests. It’s an incredible experience for anyone looking for a getaway from families to luxury travelers.  Resort owners say the only thing they don’t have is the beach, however they’re working on it!

Nemacolin Woodlands Resort, 1001 Lafayette Dr, Farmington, PA 15437, Website 

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